Is 1/4 inch thick aluminum enough for a router table insert??

[Duane Bledsoe]

I have a piece of aluminum 1/4 inch thick. If I cut it to the 9 x 12 size for a router table insert, is it thick enough not to flex under the weight of a 2 HP router?? The router not overly heavy but it probably weighs about 8 pounds at least.

[David Hawxhurst]

it'll be fine. will take a lot more than 8lbs to get a 9 x 12 x .25 aluminum plate to flex.

[John TenEyck]

This is exactly what I used to make insert. It's about 8 x 12" and doesn't flex at all. BTW, I machined it with my router. A little scarey, but no problems.

[Larry Edgerton]

Be aware that aluminum will rub off on the wood. Other than that it would be fine.

Larry

[Dan Hintz]

Larry raises a good point... if you're concerned about it, consider taking it to a local powdercoat/anodize place and getting your choice of colors anodized on it.

[Duane Bledsoe]

Hmmm, I didn't know that could be done other than in the manufacturing process. Wonder if a local machine shop could do that?? I'll have to check it out.

On using the router to machine it to size, what sort of bit do you use?? I'd be afraid to use my carbide bits for fear of damaging them, but that's about all I own for bits. I was thinking I'd have to use a saw to cut it and then files and sandpaper to mill it smooth on the edges.

One other thing, is this just supposed to sit loosely in the tabletop and rely on weight to hold it in place, or does it screw or clamp down?? I was thinking the whole point of one is so you can remove the router from the table easily for bit changes or to use freehanded as well.

[Myk Rian]

The router will keep it in place. Just be sure it sits snug in the cutout.
6 adjusting screws from the bottom side will allow fine level adjustments.
1 in each corner, and 1 along each long side.

[Gregory King]

1/4 " is the standard size. I built the Norm Abram station and Rockler supplied the aluminum plate . Comes with a blue coating which does not seem to wear off easy. Then again, I am not sure what the coating might be comprised of. Interesting, now that I think of it. I suspect the secret might be hard to find. Silicone based, perhaps.

[Ole Anderson]

1/4 " is the standard size. I built the Norm Abram station and Rockler supplied the aluminum plate . Comes with a blue coating which does not seem to wear off easy. Then again, I am not sure what the coating might be comprised of. Interesting, now that I think of it. I suspect the secret might be hard to find. Silicone based, perhaps.

Most likely anodizing done with a blue dye. It in in effect now coated with aluminum oxide, and you know how hard that is (sandpaper?). And if they left it in the tank long enough, it can be called hardcoat anodize. Done with chemicals and electricity. Or it could be paint, easy to tell the difference.

[Dan Hintz]

And if they left it in the tank long enough, it can be called hardcoat anodize.
Hardcoat (Type III anodizing) is not just leaving it in the bath for a longer period of time. It involves higher anodizing currents and creates an anodized layer several times thicker/harder than standard anodizing (Type II). Color is usually black/brown, so nothing pretty.

[John TenEyck]

Mine fits snuggly into the table opening, but the weight of the router is more than enough to keep it in place. I wanted it snug, however, because I didn't want it moving around when I'm using the fence with no bearing on the bit. Carbide bits cut aluminum just fine, although I would bet the wear could be bad on anodized material. A year or so ago when the center opening was too small for a new bit I wanted to use, I just ran that bit up through the plate to create a zero clearance opening for it, so to say; didn't hurt the bit at all. My plate is just a plain piece of something like a 5000 or 6000 series, I can't remember for sure since I got it out of the scrap bin at work. It can transfer dark smudges onto your work as was mentioned, but they come off easily when you sand the piece afterwards. Waxing the plate helps eliminate that problem, if you think it is one, as well. An anodized plate would be nicer, for sure, but free was really appealing when I made mine.

[glenn bradley]

I hung a Milwaukee 5625 from a 1/4" Rockler plate for quite awhile without issue and it is a heavy beast. The table sagged but the plate remained true. Next table had better support across the span.

[Duane Bledsoe]

Free is appealing to me too. I'm trying to make the whole table for considerably less than $100. Counting the hardware which I already have here, and the free aluminum insert, then all I have to get is the piece of birch plywood in 3/4 size to get started. I can get it for less than $50, tax and all. But I'm allowing $100 to see if I can get a few goodies for it such as a featherboard or two, but then again I might just make those too. I have a pattern here for one.

A few more questions...

1. How large should the bit opening be in the plate??

2. Should I plan on any inserts being able to fit into the opening to reduce clearance around different sized bits, or do they even make anything like that which I could buy and use with my plate??