Oneida Remote fob replacement

[Philip Berman]

My 2-year-old non-abused remote control from Oneida has died. I can use it to turn the system on, but not off. Oneida will replace it for $37 plus s/h, which seems kind of high to me especially that it hasn't been particularly durable. Has anyone figured out how to replace it with a different brand but keep the original Oneida receiver/contactor that's built into the starter? Can the operating frequency of these things be changed like garage-door openers? They can't be much different and perhaps I can get something that will last a bit longer, especially since it remains velcro'd to my apron and therefore is not subject to a whole lot of wear-and-tear. Alternative suggestions much appreciated. Ah yes, one other question, has anyone gone from a remote system to a microswitch-on-the-blastgate system? If so, which did you like better? As long as I'm maybe making a change here, and knowing that I'm good at remembering to turn on the DC but not so good at remembering to open the gate so it actually does something, perhaps I should instead consider trashing the remote altogether and wiring up a microswitch system connected to my blastgates. Doesn't seem like much work, considering I only have 6 gates and the low-voltage wire can just be strapped to the ductwork. ?

Thanks,

Philip

[Chip Lindley]

Phillip, I did not wish to be at the mercy of Long Ranger, Oneida or Shop Fox, having to pay their prices for replacement parts. So, I conjured up my own remote on/off systems for my RPC and DC. I used the cheap and readily-available X-10 components to control the magnetic coil of a motor starter to turn on and off the RPC and DC motors. Works like a charm! And, if any part of the X-10 ever fails, I already have extra parts on hand to plug in and keep playing. The X-10 fob will control two different devices, which works great for my needs.

~~Chip~~

X-10 Tranceiver______220V on/off Module______Two-channel Fob
203221203222203223

[Greg Portland]

Philip,
The Oneida is a RF remote, check the inside for any codes (for programming a replacement). Alternatively, you should be able to wire in a different remote to control the contactor. Note that you do NOT need a high power solution here since you're only toggling the contactor; the contactor itself is what has to handle the high voltage and current.

When you say 'microswitch on the blastgate' are you saying that the DC turns on when you open a gate? If I was going to that much hassle I would have "tool power-on" trigger the DC.

[Bob Wingard]

Pry the remote apart and see if the carbon contacts on he back of the rubbery pad are dirty first. Many times, a good cleaning will fix it right up ...

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Sometimes cleaning the conductive pads with an alcohol prep pad will help too.

[Mark Engel]

I had the exact same problem with my Oneida. Turns out it wasn't the remote fob, but the remote receiver inside the magnetic switch enclosure. Replaced that receiver and everything works fine now.

Are you sure the transmitter fob is the problem on yours?

[mreza Salav]

I second what Chip said. Have used the X-10 transiver plus the key-chain remote (that has survived going into a washing machine in the pocket of my pants!)
You just need a simple contactor (with 120 coils) which will be operated with the X-10 transiver which in turn is turned on/off with the remote.
I've got the transiver and two remotes off e-bay for $10-15 bucks!

[Philip Berman]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I'm going to open the receiver unit and see if there are any markings in there to guide me towards setting an RF that will work. If not, I'll probably go with a low-voltage microswitch system on the blastgates and a contactor at the unit - that'll at least make me open the blastgate which I often forget to do until shavings are spewing out all over the shop. The X-10 is a great solution, and I probably would have gone with that if the Oneida hadn't come with remote, and while it would be easier to set that up, I really don't see that it would take me all that long to hardwire microswitches to the 5 blastgates I have and run the wire along the ductwork back to the collector.

Thanks again for all the suggestions!

Philip

[Ken Andersen]

Hi Mark,

My 20 month old remote has just developed the same issue: turns ON but not OFF. How did you diagnose
that it was the receiver rather than the fob that was the issue with yours?

[Philip Berman]

I changed the batteries in the fob, didn't help. Even with the old battery the light lit up just fine when I pressed a button, just nothing happened with the unit. Called Oneida, they told me I had to buy a whole new receiver. I haven't yet made a decision on whether or not to buy their replacement as unit like this, especially in an under-used hobbyist shop, should last longer than 2 years. I am, however, getting tired of having to walk around stuff to get to the switch to manually turn the thing on and off.

Philip

[Philip Berman]

I have no problem going to an x-10 or another similar system, but have no clue how to bypass the receiver that's obviously built into the switch. ? I have a schematic but can't make heads or tails out of it. Anyone?

[Joseph Tarantino]

you ever consider this product:

http://www.ivacswitch.com/index.action

completely eliminates the need to activate a DC with a remote control. tool activation automatically activates one or more slave tools.

[Philip Berman]

I just took a look at the IVAC system - as I understand it, you need a "PRO TOOL" unit at each tool plus the switch and contactor, which in my case, with 5 tools connected to the DC, would be $450 just to turn the system on and off. It's nice, but I think a bit too extravagant an expenditure. AND, if I were to go that route, I'd want it somehow connected to the blast gate, because I think if everything just fires up when I hit the switch, I'm never going to remember to open the gate. At least with the remote, it forces me to think about turning on the DC which then reminds me that it would work a heck of a lot better if I actually allowed some air to pass through the machine I'm using. I don't have a problem using a remote control, I'd just like it to last a little longer. AND I'd like to deal with a company that will stand behind what they sold me, not jump at the opportunity to sell me more.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I am mostly happy with them as a company. There is good engineering in the cyclones and fan selection. And they are well made. But I think they scrimped on the remote. I have seen many threads on busted remotes. Mine has been replaced as well. I actually have an extra remote fob as I don't need 3! It seems the reciever that goes out most often.
Salem

[Bernie May]

just to add to what others have said. First I couldn't turn off my Oneida cyclone with the remote switch and then not even turn it on. Replaced the receiver and now both the new and old remotes do the job. I am happy, but should not have had to replace it after about four years. Oneida should contract for a better receiver.
-bernie