View Full Version : Air assist and exhaust

Niklas Bjornestal
02-17-2005, 4:13 PM
Hi, I'll be buying an epilog mini, 35W. And I wonder if anyone can tell me what demands there are on the air assist (airflow volume/pressure), and the exhaust (volume/minute)


Niklas Björnestål

Jerry Allen
02-17-2005, 8:43 PM
I just use a common 30 psi air brush compressor with a condensation filter/regulator (included) from Harbor Freight (item#34844). About $75. Works great. I use about 20psi.
I live in the middle of nowhere so for exhaust I just pump it outside. My neighbors aren't too close, and they make way more smoke burning their fireplaces. I use a 660cfm portable dust collector, also from Harbor Freight (item#31810). About $100.

Keith Outten
02-17-2005, 10:08 PM

I agree with Jerry on his choice of compressor and exhaust. I got a small airbrush type compressor with my Epilog when I purchased it however I have my engraver hooked up to my shop compressor. Since my compressor is in another building next to the shop I don't have to deal with the noise. I have a pressure regulator (20 psi) and filter right at the engraver.

I also use my shop dust collector and like Jerry exhaust directly outside.

George M. Perzel
02-18-2005, 11:06 AM
Ditto on what Jerry and Keith said-no need to get elaborate or expensive and don't buy from the laser manufacturer unless you have a lotta extra cash you don't know what to do with!

Jeanette Brewer
02-18-2005, 11:10 AM
For what it's worth, here are the specs from the mfg. (Epilog):

Exhaust: Any fan will work that pulls 400 CFM at 6 inches of static pressure.

Air Assist Pump: Air assist needs 20-40 PSI. If using a "normal" tank based air compressor, one should get a regulator/dryer to reduce air flow down to the above recommended range.

Michael McDuffie
02-19-2005, 5:25 PM
I too use a dust collector for my exhaust.

Mine's a Grizzly 2 HP that is out in the garage. It's rated at 1500CFM and even though it pulls through 20' of steel duct and 10' of plastic hose, it will still pull small items off the table and out to the garage. I hate it when that happens. :rolleyes:

I tape the table to the back of the machine and the top of the vector table to the top of the exhaust slot to make the vector table work like a vacuum table when cutting leather. It keeps the lens much cleaner and helps hold the leather flat.


Jackie McGowan
05-01-2005, 1:35 AM
I too will be purchasing a laser soon and was researching what type of compressor and exsaust to get. Should the compressor be oilless and does that make it more quiet? and is there such a thing as making the exaust more quiet?:confused:

Michael McDuffie
05-01-2005, 2:56 AM
Oilless compressors are much louder than oil types. The compressor that came with my Epilog is a Gast diaphragm type model DOA-P172-AA, and is very quiet. It's also very expensive.

You may be able to find an air brush compressor at a hobby store or get the Harbor Freight unit.


Shari Loveless
05-01-2005, 11:39 AM

Since I mostly cut fabric appliques, I too would have a piece get pulled out once in a blue moon. And of course it would make me short one piece. So, I bought some flexible window screen, cut a small strip and taped it to the horizontal vent. It worked great and does not impede the air flow. I now use a specially cut piece of flat metal to hold down the screen. The lost piece just sort of sticks there on the screen so I can hit pause, open the door, retrive it, then hit resume and I'm off the the races again. There doesn't seem to be any way of knowing when a piece will just "lift off" especially when the other 50 pieces are laying there just fine.
I'm not sure how you would mount it in an Epilog since I have a Universal but there must be a way. Makes the missing piece much easier to retrieve.
I also have a way of propping things up off of my vector grid. I do not use this for fabric! I went to ACE and bought some long thin bolts. I first used a thin dowell but the bolts work better. They need to be just a "hair" smaller than the holes in the grid and be long enough to extend up above it about an inch or so when placed vertically into the little vector grid holes. You can then lift them out and move them around to fit under whatever you need to prop up. If placement is critical, use your red dot pointer and match the coordinates in your software. It's a piece of cake. No need to make anything special and you can change the arrangement to fit your needs.

Michael McDuffie
05-01-2005, 2:02 PM
I can see in my mind exactly what you mean with the bolts. That's a way cool idea, I've never liked the little burn marks that the grid leaves behind.

The screen idea would work also. I haven't lost any thing to the great DC in the garage in a while but sometimes I feed it bits of stuff just to here it rattle up the pipe.:rolleyes: