Not so universal Delta tennoning jig

[Jerome Hanby]

Finally unpacked this gizmo. Spent 45 minutes cleaning off the cosmoline. Followed the directions and got it dialed in, no problems. Got to the last step where you set the stop to leave you 1/8" from the blade and it turns out that the set screw has to be screwed almost as far as it will go to bottom out leaving no way to lock the setting with the nut. Oh well, I can probably get a screw long enough from Ace, I'll finish up while I'm waiting for them to open. Start to set the indicator and realize that the 1/8" mark is still buried in the jig! Oh well, I'll just move the base to the right tilt mounting holes and reset the stops. The slot isn't long enough to get the jig face to the saw blade, grrr. So, I guess I can try drilling and tapping holes in the base to get it in the proper position, don't think so, just not confident in my ability to get the holes placed correctly. Other thing I think of is to leave it set in the right tilt mounting holes and add a wooden face to the jig's face to get it close enough o the blade. Is that my best solution or have I missed something obvious? I bought this thing (it was brand new, never unpacked) off CL, so taking it back and buying another unit is not an option. Maybe this is silly on my part, but I figure that a Delta jig should fit a Delta saw, so I'm assuming this thing will work as advertised once I get my Unisaw online and retire this Craftsman.

[Paul Symchych]

The quickest, easiest and most trouble free tenon tool for me is an old fashioned Marples scribing tool. The one that has a single scribe on one face and adjustable double scribes on the other. Chop mortises; adjust the two points for placement and tenon width; scratch the lines and cut the tenon on the bandsaw. Takes but a minute. It is also a satisfyingly lovely tool to look at -made from rosewood and brass.


http://home.comcast.net/~kvaughn65/marking_gauges.jpg

[Rod Sheridan]

No consolation Jerome, however when I had a General 650 saw, I had to drill and tap the jig so it worked properly for my saw.

It's also the only time I really thought I had experienced a saw accident.

I was trying it out with a couple of pieces of scrap, and of course I didn't have a blade guard on the saw.

All of a sudden I noticed a pool of blood on the saw, and of course think I've cut a finger off or something.

I shut the saw off, look at my hands, they look fine, untill I really extend the fingers on my right hand and blood starts pouring out.

It turned out that the chrome plating on the handwheel had peeled, and it was razor sharp. I had a deep, painless cut that was so precise it quit bleeding when my hand was in the relaxed position.

A letter to Delta and a couple of free hand wheels were on the way............Regards, Rod.

[Jerome Hanby]

Rod, That's the same way I always hurt myself. I'm ultra paranoid and the spinning sharp stuff and always tear myself up on rough edges.

Paul, I hear you. But I've got the jig and the band saw part requires a little bit of skill. Since I've already butchered one set of these door parts doing things the messed up way the Shopnotes article suggested, I'm trying to take all the skill that I can out of the equation. I do have plans on making a marking gauge like that sometime in the near future. The thoughts of the brass and rosewood make me all tingly <g>. Funny, since it would be for me, doing the "skill" parts for the gauge doesn't bother me at all, but this door goes on something for my wife, so I want it as perfect as I can manage.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jerome....can you post a couple pictures of this tenoning jig? Specifically can you post a photo of the bottom....and then the jig as if it was being used.....or can you give me a Delta part number or model number for the jig?

[glenn bradley]

My Rockler Blue version (had Jet/Powermatic instructions included) had the same issue. 50 cents at the BORG for a longer set screw took care of it. I use it on the tablesaw and on the router table; tenons, bridle joints, sliding dovetails, etc. There are many ways to make these cuts but, a decent jig really makes them safe, quick and repeatable. I have never had an issue with the jig in the 6 years or so I have been using it. It is your responsibility to make sure things that are supposed to move smoothly, do and that things that are supposed to be tight, are ;-)

I did have to re-dail mine in when I changed tablesaws a few years ago. I keep the miter bar and washer adjusted so that they slide in the slot/t-slot freely but, with no slop. Miter slot slop will ruin your accuracy on this type of jig. Use some shim material to assure a snug fit throughout the whole stroke path. I keep mine on a shelf in a cabinet for easy access. I don't use it a lot but, am glad I have it.

I agree some pics of yours would help. I thought mine was incompatible with my saw at first too; the instructions are quite poor. Then I had that "ah-ha" moment. I do only use the position indicator for relative positioning. In other words the scale is pretty much useless. I have seen people put effort into adding a dial indicator and so forth but, to be honset, a pocket ruler or some setup bars will get you to your starting position pretty reliably. Then just measure your offset. HTH.

[Jerome Hanby]

I'll be going back to the shop in a few. I'll bring the manual in with me and get you part numbers.

I added a wooden face to the jig and that let me dial it in per the instructions. Seems to work well. I used it to line up slot cutting with a 1/4" dado blade then actually used it to cut tenons to fit those slots! Now if I could tell the difference in 1&1/4" and 1&1/2" I'd be set (and only have to cut the slots once).


Jerome....can you post a couple pictures of this tenoning jig? Specifically can you post a photo of the bottom....and then the jig as if it was being used.....or can you give me a Delta part number or model number for the jig?

[Carl Beckett]

I have always had one of these jigs - currently the Delta version.

One method I try to use is to always clamp the same side of the board against the base. This is so that if there are differences in thickness from board to board, the tenon itself is a constant width. Doing it this way does create a problem with total travel (for thicker tenons), so I frequently clamp a board in between the workpiece and the base to give some offset which can be dialed in.

[michael case]

Thanks Carl, I tried explain this to a newbie the other week. He was flipping stock over to make tenons on a router table and getting inconsistent results. He thought going to a tenon jig on a table saw would be more consistent. Not if you flip the stock around. Which is by the way what the stupid directions always say to do. Glad to see some else sees it my way.

[Jerome Hanby]

Ken,


It's the Delta 34-184 Universal jig