Powermatic 66 table saw Help needed

[Ira Matheny]

I just got my new [used, ca 2003] Powermatic 5 hp saw running. However, I find the arbor tilt mechanism is very stiff. I tried to do a bit of lubing with dry-lube, which was only marginally better.
Does anyone have a suggestion for freeing up this?

[David G Baker]

I had an old Craftsman 10 inch table saw that had an arbor tilt problem. The problem was caused by grease that had mixed with sawdust and hardened with age. I removed the assembly, throughly cleaned it, added grease, reassembled it and it worked like a charm. I don't use the tilt mechanism to often so that is probably why I didn't catch the hardened grease sooner.

[Joe Kieve]

Probably like David said, gunked up with grease and sawdust. Get in there and clean the threads on the tilting gears with mineral spirits,
kerosene, etc., then spray with dry lube or brush some paste wax on it. Unless something else is going on, you should be able to tilt that 66 with your little finger.
I tried for 37 years to wear out a PM66 in the shop I worked in. Finally gave up, retired, and let the younger guys try to wear it out.
You've got a great saw. Enjoy it!

joe

[dave toney]

The powermatic is a fine saw,but you will probably need to remove to table to clean it well.

[Heather Thompson]

The powermatic is a fine saw,but you will probably need to remove to table to clean it well.

If you remove the table to clean the saw be sure to note the location of any shimes and replace them from where they came, if you fail to do this it could prove to be a very long afternoon/evening.


Heather

[John McClanahan]

I guess you know that the center knob in the hand wheel is the lock knob.

John

[Josh Bowman]

[QUOTE=Heather Thompson;1746946]If you remove the table to clean the saw be sure to note the location of any shimes and replace them from where they came, if you fail to do this it could prove to be a very long afternoon/evening.
When I bought mine, I had the same problem, I had to take the table off and degunk the gears, relube and the mechanism worked like new again. A lot of work, but really worth the effort. I tried to do it with the table on and just wasted a bunch of time.
I agree with the knob post, make sure it's loose......................................:eek:

[Mike Schuch]

I use Johnsons paste wax on my PM65 and it usually does the job for about 6 months.

[Neal Clayton]

that boeshield stuff in the spray can (basically aerosol wax) is easier to get on there down in the gears and threads. i use that stuff. just spray it as you're moving the wheels throughout the range of travel, and yeah it lasts 6 months to a year depending on your shop conditions and how much you use the saw.

they have it at sears, in a white can.

[Ira Matheny]

Thanks for the advise. I used air to get the built-up sawdust off. Then used an aerosol dry lube. Ran it the the range of motion a few time and applied more dry lube. Seemed to help a bit.
However, this morning I tried adjusting and it was very smooth and free.

Problem solved.

[Zach Duran]

i just got myself into an old (1970's??) powermatic 66. i am having a hard time removing the arbor to get to the bearings. on the old models, there was no flat area on the arbor to stabilize while loosening the lock nut. i have been blasting the area with penetrating lube to no avail. anybody have luck with removing this nut to get the arbor out?

[Zach Duran]

284069284070284071
BTW, here are some pics of the trouble area. the lock nut adjacent to the pulley will not budge. i noticed there are the three holes in the pulley, maybe for a special wrench to hold the arbor in place while loosening the nut?? Again, any help will be greatly appreciated, i've been staring and wrecking my brain trying to figure it out!!

[John McClanahan]

Zach, by looking at your photo, the nut has left hans threads. Try turning it clockwise to remove it.

John

[Zach Duran]

Thanks john, but they are not reverse threads. The past two days I've stared at them making sure I wasnt being an idiot! (It happens to the best of us sometimes.) I may try heating the nut with a heavy duty soldering iron and see if that helps. Even if it does, not having a way to stabilize the arbor is a pain.

[Drew Pavlak]

Have you tried putting the belts on the pulleys to try to lock it in place? I know that has helped me a few times in the past on other things. Basically put the belts on the arbor pulley and squeeze them so that they tighten around the pulley and then use them as a handle to provide extra leverage. Baring that maybe an Impact wrench? I wonder if someone put it on with an impact, hence the problem.

[Zach Duran]

I will definitely try that. I'm hoping heat and lube will do the trick, and hopefully using the belts will add extra leverage.

[Erik Loza]

Zach, it looks pretty rusted on there. What if you used a flat leather strap (a belt might be too stiff; something more flexible..), wrapped it around the pulleys, then put a dowel or rod in there and twisted hard to really get some grip on the pulleys while you tried a breaker bar on that arbor nut? This has worked for me in the past.

Best of luck with it.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Zach Duran]

Hey Erik, thanks for the advice! I'll try that. I am determined to make that sucker turn!

[Doug Ladendorf]

I had the same problem when restoring my 66. I used an oil filter wrench from the auto parts store. One tip, don't get the cheepie. It will just bend. I had to use a pipe wrench on the castle nut on the center trunnion.
Good luck,
Doug

[Sandra Mart]

284069284070284071
BTW, here are some pics of the trouble area. the lock nut adjacent to the pulley will not budge. i noticed there are the three holes in the pulley, maybe for a special wrench to hold the arbor in place while loosening the nut?? Again, any help will be greatly appreciated, i've been staring and wrecking my brain trying to figure it out!!

Nice pics Zach ...http://watchfree.me/11/w.png

[Earl McLain]

I like the oil filter wrench idea. This is not something i've ever done, but as i look at the pics, i'd start with some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil on the pulley nut, then double nut on the blade side to lock against each other. That would give me two wrenches to work with after the oil had a chance to work. Could that work??

earl

[Zach Duran]

Hey Earl, good thinking. I was going to try that trick as well. I've been dousing it with pb the past two days. I just picked up an oil filter wrench and am gonna try that tonight. I also have an industrial heavy duty soldering iron I will heat it up with. . .after the oil is wiped away of course!

[Erik Loza]

Zach, a soldering iron isn't going to even warm that pulley up, LOL. If you're going to heat it up (which could be the thing to do...), you'll want to use a propane torch.

The standard procedure is to saturate the nut with PB Blaster, Kroil, or whatever. Let it sit for a while or even overnight. Then, torch the nut 'til it smokes and right after that, spray water on it. The thinking is that the rapid cooling will "shock free" the rust and allow you to back the nut off. At least this is how I have always done it for frozen nuts on automotive applications.

Best of luck,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Zach Duran]

284106
oh the feeling of success! well, erik, yes, the soldering iron did absolutely NOTHING, but i did go out and get a set of oil filter wrenches. pretty tough rubber straps. the pb blaster worked away at it the past 2 days. it took a good ten minutes of brute arm strength, but finally gave way. i tapped the pulley off with a rubber mallet and block of pine. now i've got the woodruff key soaking with pb. tomorrow i'm going to bring home a pair of end nippers from work and hopefully they will get the key out. if not maybe a propane torch is in question? we'll see. i hope after the key comes out that the arbor and bearings come out relatively easy. . . i fear quite the contrary though. we will see!!

[Doug Ladendorf]

Congrats! I know the feeling well LOL! As far as the woodruff key I'm now sure how end nippers will help without potentially damaging. I used a punch on the edge and it started out without too much trouble. Alternatively you could try this method explained by an expert in the matter: http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=59892

Let us know how it goes.
Doug

[Zach Duran]

thanks doug, i will try a punch. with how old this table saw is i am now realizing that each step of the way may present some obstacles. well, hopefully it'll make it all the more satisfying when i have it up and running, purring like a kitten!

[Ronald Blue]

I don't know how you fared with the woodruff key but I have also used a cold chisel from the end and turned them up out of there. It will probably sacrifice the key but they are relatively easy to find at a good hardware store or farm store. Obviously you will need it to be a small and sharp chisel to do this. Lay it parallel to the shaft and catch the end of the key. Good luck

[Zach Duran]

So i've just replaced the bearings and woodruff key (which the original had to be "sacrificed" in removing it). i tried to fit the assembly into the saw raising arm and it is quite a snug fit. i do not want to tap it in with a mallet in fear of damaging the new bearings. Is there a trick to this, or is it supposed to be so tight that it'll take a few mallet taps? the bearings will not slide into the housing more than a 1/16" before they get snagged up. . .

[Zach Duran]

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag205/zduranrock/Mobile%20Uploads/d1b2f8bf-cf92-4902-a674-f5b6d721a2ab_zps72c9d907.jpg
this is how far the bearings will slide into the arm housing. I tried using some lubricant with no results. should i maybe try a dry lube or lithium grease? also, if i were to press them in, the blade stop wouldn't allow me to apply direct pressure to the outer race of the bearing, which is what i figured the pressure would want to be on. i put the whole arbor in the freezer for a couple hours to see if it would slide in any easier, but again, to no avail. Does anybody have any advice? every step of the way is a new challenge! i just want the thing up and running!

[Doug Ladendorf]

Zach, I think I just gave some light tapping with a wooden mallet. I also wiped a bit of oil around the surfaces beforehand.

[Ronald Blue]

It appears they just start in the housing. I would screw the blade retaining nut on flush and take a block of wood as a protector and give it a solid rap. It should go however watch that it stays straight. You might need to tap it up or down or sideways to keep it straight. At least until it gets in a ways. You probably don't have enough shaft sticking out the back to pull it in that way.

[Zach Duran]

thanks guys. with a bit of minor rust clean up on the inside of the arbor housing and some oil and grease, i was able to tap it into place. got the pulley on and new belts. does anybody know of the appropriate amount of tension the belts are supposed to have? the motor swings left or right, therefore tightening the belts, but i am not sure how tight i should try to make them?

[Doug Ladendorf]

I let the motor swing down to it's comfortable position then applied a bit of pressure while tightening to take up any slack. Seems to work fine.

[Kirk Poore]

Zach: With that green color, unless somebody repainted the interior, that's a late 1960's saw, not 2003. Not that it makes any difference now that you've got the bearings changed.:)

Kirk

[Zach Duran]

Zach: With that green color, unless somebody repainted the interior, that's a late 1960's saw, not 2003. Not that it makes any difference now that you've got the bearings changed.:)

Kirkthanks kirk,
but i piggybacked on an already existing thread about PM66's. the original OP was talking about his 2003 saw, but yes, mine i believe is late 60's or early 70's. with new belts, bearings and a freshly ground table top i hope it operates like it was made just yesterday!!

[Matt Day]

Just a suggestion for anybody who may look at this thread in the future... I just ran into a similar problem with my 65, getting the nut off the end of the arbor shaft by the pulley. Mine was a castle nut but same issue. I used an impact drill and a 1 1/16" socket and that did it. I couldn't do I with an adjustable wrench because I couldn't keep the arbor from spinning. With the impact inwas able to easily keep the arbor from spinning.

For the bearings issue, I plan to clean it up good and use the freezer to my advantage with the bearings.