Electric Grinder needed - build or buy?

[Bob Jones]

I have decided that I need a grinder to sharpen all these tools I keep dulling. I have been watching craigslist for a good old one (like many recommend) but I have not had any luck for months. I am just going to buy a new one. Problem - Buy one ready made or get this and build one myself?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Bench-Mandrels-5-8-Ball-Bearing/G5549

I think the cost will be a wash if I can find a free motor. I was already planning to buy blue replacement wheels, so not paying for the grey ones is a plus with me. Has anyone build a grinder with mandrels and a belt drive motor? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!

[george wilson]

I'd buy one. A belt drive grinder will take up 3 or 4 times the work space that a regular one will take. Are you going to make tool rests too? WAY too much trouble. New ones are cheap.

[Trevor Walsh]

I've heard a lot of good things about the variable speed Delta, and used one a bit at work.

[Chris Griggs]

Buy one. A 6 inch. Could be high speed could be variable or low speed. It doesn't matter. Go to the Borg, you can spend as little at $40 and there is no need to spend more than $100. I got the 6 inch porter cable variable speed grinder a few months ago that lowes sells for around $90. This is my first grinder so I can't really compare it to anything, but I have been very happy with it. It's nearly the same as that 6 inch vs delta (same manufacturer), but has a few different features and supposedly a slightly more powerful motor (lord knows if this is true).

Once again, VERY happy with it - can't believe I went so long w/o a power grinder.

Runs smooth and comes with a decent wheel dresser. I'm still using the original gray wheels and the original tool rest that came with it. When I first got it I ran it on low speed out of fear of burning an edge. Now I run it on full speed and use the coarser of the two wheels (46 grit) that came with it without issue. Would like to replace the tool rest soon, but I dont need to - the one that came on it isn't great but it gets the job done.

[Luke Townsley]

I bought the General 8" slow speed grinder with the stand. I wanted it to sharpen lathe tools and put the Norton wheels on it. There are three major problems with the grinder. 1. The rests aren't adjustable. I can live with that. 2. the spindles are too short. The wheels that came with it are narrower than the 1" wide ones I put on and the spacers don't work right. I replaced the original ones with some I picked up , but they aren't as good. 3. It has a lot of vibration. Enough that it is a serious problem.

On the bright side, the worklight works well enough you can see how much it shakes.

When I get enough money to change it, I'm putting the original wheels back on and selling it.

I can understand now why some people shell out the money for the Baldor grinders.

[Dave Ring]

When buying a grinder, consider that the SURFACE speed of an 8" wheel on a slow-speed grinder is very close to the surface speed of a 6" wheel at 3500 rpm, hence the risk of burning your tools is similar. As for a full-speed 8" wheel--much riskier.

[David Weaver]

buy a 6" full speed or 8" half speed that has two-piece rests, for the reason george mentioned - a separate arbor and motor takes up too much space, and you still have to come up with an adjustable rest.

[Adam Cherubini]

I have the woodcraft slow speed grinder, purchased on sale years ago for much less than $100. The tool rests mount to flmsy sheet metal guards and the 2 pieces of the rest are cast and aren't perpendicular to the wheel. I filed them flat, but to be honest, I don't much use them

The grinder itself is okay. I put blue wheels on it and hated them. Mine were super friable Nortons and they threw off tons of abrasive. I ended up putting the original white wheels back on.

The key to cool grinding is technique, not equipment. I think Larry Williams advocates the standard gray wheels. I think wide wheels are nice, mine are 1".

The other alternative (and what I've been doing last couple years) is using a x-coarse or xx-coarse diamond plate for grinding. I use my grinder more for tool making and creating an initial bevel. Once I've ground it, I pretty much never grind again.

With turning tools, I think the trick is just to get the tool to the stone before it gets too dull and goes to pieces.

[john brenton]

Agreed on the Porter Cable. They do go on sale occasionally too. It runs great and the tool rests, although not perfectly square, can be made square or just lived with. I went cheaper first and bought the Skil...bad idea. I took it back that same day.


Buy one. A 6 inch. Could be high speed could be variable or low speed. It doesn't matter. Go to the Borg, you can spend as little at $40 and there is no need to spend more than $100. I got the 6 inch porter cable variable speed grinder a few months ago that lowes sells for around $90. This is my first grinder so I can't really compare it to anything, but I have been very happy with it.

[Chris Griggs]

Also, when you buy a grinder (especially from the BORG), first thing to do when you open it is put it on a flat surface, plug it in and turn it on without the wheels on it. It should run smooth with no vibration. If it vibrates much with no wheels take it back. There is no reason a grinder without wheels should not run smoothly. It may vibrate once you get the wheels on but this is an issue of the wheels being out of balance. By first running the grinder with no wheels you can be sure that any extreme vibration you get is not a problem with the grinder itself.