What finish on maple bowl?? Added Photo

[Steve R Baker]

202451202450202449I have turned a maple bowl that has some bark left on the sides. It is sanded to 400 grit. The bark is in two pitted areas on the bottom sides. What is the best finish to use on this bowl? I was thinking of using danish oil and wop. or just wop or ???????
The wood was cut off a tree where a limb came out. It has some wormey maple spots, some bural and some curley maple area.
This is my 1st attempt to post a photo. ???

[Marty Eargle]

DO and WOP should be fine. That's how I do most of my bowls...substituting BLO and Walnut Oil occasionally. You might even add a little CA glue to the back to ensure it holds on during the finishing process.

[Jim Burr]

I think pictures are in order to help provide you with the best advice possible!

[Toney Robertson]

Some of it depends on how you want the bowl to look. IMO WOP does not change color of the maple as much as DO or AO. If you want it to really maintain it light color you could use lacquer.

Another factor would be the grain. If it has curl, quilt or other figured grain oil seems to make them pop better than a lacquer or WOP IMO.

[Bob Rotche]

Obviously very much a matter of personal preference. I find myself continuing to return to either danish oil or antique oil followed by beal buff. To me gives a perfect silky, low level sheen without a plastic appearance. It is also virtually foolproof which is very important for me. I have tried WOP after admiring the work of Steve S and John K on this forum but have been unable to achieve their degree of perfection.

[John Keeton]

IMO, finishes break down into two major categories - "in the wood" and film finishes. WOP can be both by using a single heavy coat, let it sit for 10-15 minutes or so, then wipe it off with a dry rag. Let it cure for 2-3 days, and buff. It will produce a nice luster that can be waxed if a little more sheen is desired. Or, one can build a film finish with it. When I do that, I normally apply several coats of shellac first to fill the grain and create a level base for the WOP. Steve does this step with WOP vs. shellac. The result is the same - a "built up" film finish. For me, I like the shorter time involved with building the shellac finish. I can usually get the "base" done in a day or two, and it reduces the number of coats of WOP needed. Overall, not much difference except for the added amber of the shellac which can "warm up" a piece a little. That may or may not fit in with the desired effect.

Shellac will also fill bark inclusions and natural edge areas nicely, giving them a little more stability.

[Prashun Patel]

IMHO, the biggest issue with finishing maple is that many oil based finishes impart an amber cast which some perceive favorably as 'warm', and others perceive negatively as 'too yellow'. If you want a pure white finish, your best bet is a lacquer or waterbased topcoat. If (like me) you like a little honey in your milk, then anything will be fine on maple.

On low-wear surfaces, my favorite topcoat is shellac (superblone on maple). It dries quickly and applies easy on a spinning lathe. It also buffs out to the perfect-to-me satin/semigloss luster with a little lube or wax and wool. Thin it down to 1.5#, squirt a little into a rag, and rub it on with the lathe on low.