How do you finish a maple worktop?

[Stephen Dixon]

I recently scored a 32"x72"x1 3/4" maple workbench top. I'm building a version of Norm's Workshop hutch, and am wondering about how to finish the top. Oil, Shellac, Poly, Spar Varnish, Water based Poly, I can't make up my mind, so I thought a little help from the group was in order.

Thanks, Steve

[James Carmichael]

Isn't BLO the traditional finish?

[Jason Tuinstra]

Stephen, FWW had an article a couple of years ago about a workbench finish. I don't have it in front of me, but I've used it a few times and if my memory is correct, I think it's 1 cup fast drying poly (he used gloss), 1/2 cup thinner, 1/4 cup BLO. You just slop it on, let it sit for roughly half an hour, and then clean it off with a fresh rag. Repeat the process a couple times, and you'll have a nice bench top finish that is easily repairable. Hope this helps.

[Steven Wilson]

You'll want something that is renewable so the following come to mind;

Shellac (usually a lite build) - dead easy to repair
BLO - not much protection but easy to repair, pure tung oil if you want a lighter color
Mineral Oil and parafin (about %10) - typical butcher block finish, real nice would work on a workbench
Poly - since it isn't an evaporative finish you don't want to go with a high build (as in furniture) as it won't be repairable. But if you apply a thinned poly so it acts as a sealer then it works well and is repairable (i.e. sort of like BLO but with a bit of resin).

[Rob Russell]

I'd use a sealer like shellac with wax over it.

[Jim Becker]

I personally prefer just BLO on my bench(es)...it's quick, easy, inexpensive and most importantly, renewable. Two applications in the begining a few days appart and a re-application a couple times a year take care of things and insure glue spots are easy to clean off. The oil finish dosen't show minor cuts and abrasion as readily as a film finish will, too. All IMHO, of course...

[John Miliunas]

Stephan, although I can't give you a long-term report, I used BLO for the bench I recently built. I've managed to get a few scratches in it already and, they do show, but not nearly as bad as what a film finish would've done.:cool:

[Jerry Olexa]

When I bought my Sjorberg Bench top a few years ago at Woodcraft, the Slsman advised me to put on 3 coats of Danish oil which I did. I've been happy w it and has worn well. Based on later experience, I would probably now advise BLO. I'd be concerned about Poly due to its chipping nature. IMHO only...

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Poly is not a good choice, I would go with one of the Oils. We used poly on one of the new benches in High school and it was chipped to crap in about a year. The rest of the benches with oil were easily repaired, not the one with poly.

[Mike Wilkins]

Use some type of penetrating oil, such as Waterlox or Minwax Antique Oil Finish. After it dries apply a coat of paste wax, to make it easier to clean off the glue drips. Should be retreated each year just so it looks good.