Planing a taper

[Jim Dunn]

I need to taper a piece of trim already installed on a book case I'm building. I am wondering how to best do this.

Do I plane it in stages as the diagram suggests by starting a #1, then #2 and so on with a final planing the entire length? Or do I start at one end and apply more pressure as I get to the other end?

If I do it in stages how can I be sure I don't have a taper that looks like I did it in stages with steps on the entire length?

The trim, as I said, is on a book case that will be used to hide a water heater. It's in a bath in the basement but I want it to look as good as possible.

Jim

[Steve Wargo]

In short you can do it the way you've described. Just mark your taper with a pencil or chalk and plane to the line. To be honest, it's easist to rough the taper on a bandsaw or Table saw and then clean it up with a hand plane. Hope this helps.

[Jim Dunn]

Steve I appreciate your response. I didn't realize it needed tapered till I installed it, or tried to, in the opening. It is already nailed and glued to the frame. I didn't frame the hole it's going in, some "carpenters" did.

[Steve Wargo]

If you have to get into a corner you may need to use a wide chisel to do a portion fo the work. It can be done, but you must go slowly. A chisel plane, or bullnose would work well also, but I don't have one, so I use a chisel.

[Jim Dunn]

I have the book case laying on it's side, so it will be easy to plane it. I'll post pics when I get it finished and installed.

[Steve Jenkins]

If you don't mind using an electon or two you can trim it close with a jig saw and clamp a straightedge to it for a final trim with a router. This is the perferct opportunity to use one of the circular saw guides like Eurekazone. Clamp it on to your marks and slice it off.

[Joel Moskowitz]

I would use a chisel to waste out most of the the excess then the longest plane you have to get a straight line when you clean up to the final taper.

[Tim Sproul]

Do I plane it in stages as the diagram suggests by starting a #1, then #2 and so on with a final planing the entire length?
That is the way I do it when tapering with planes. I'd use a scrub or jack to start rather than a chisel to hog out the wood and then smooth with a smoother or long plane.

[Steven Wilson]

It shouldn't take very long to make the taper. Just make sure you accurately lay out the taper on the board before you start. I would also add a bit of a back bevel to the side that doesn't show if you can. This allows you to make your final strokes when you fit the piece in without having to take full width shavings

[Steve Kubien]

Hi Jum,

I like your idea of planing in stages. One or two sweeps where the most material needs to be removed, another stroke or 2 at the next stage and so on. A long bench plane (6, 7, or 8) should allow you to remove the evidence of planing in stages.

My 2 cents,

Steve Kubien

[Roger Nixon]

That is the way I do it when tapering with planes. I'd use a scrub or jack to start rather than a chisel to hog out the wood and then smooth with a smoother or long plane.

Same here. Get it close in stages then use the jointer to make it a straight line.

[Jim Dunn]

Well I did it. Will post pics when completly done and installed. Used my original idea and will save the others for future use.

Thanks to all who looked and replied.
Jim