Wanting to make a router table

[Duane Bledsoe]

I'm thinking of making my own router table using 3/4 MDF. If you were doing this, what features would you put on it that you could make yourself?? What size table surface?? How tall of a fence, is 6" too much?? I might even be able to come up with a 1/4 inch thick aluminum insert, home made of course. Is this something I'm going to find necessary other than needing it for ease of bit change or making deeper cuts??

I think I can make T-tracks built into the fence and table surface using a keyhole bit instead of having to buy them. Is this a good idea or should I just buy them?? I keep thinking that one time of over tightening a screw/knob and it would tear out. I can also build into the fence a vacuum port. Mainly I want a table that is solid and flat with a fence that is square. Any additional add ons that aren't too costly, or that I could make myself would be great. I'm not the least bit interested in aesthetics, if it's ugly but easy to use and works great them I'm good with it.

[Mike Null]

I'm sure there are many others with better ideas but here are just a couple of things that are important to me.

The table needs to be flat and unsupported MDF may not get you there. I would buy the T-tracks--mdf doesn't wear as well as aluminum. I would use a polycarbonate insert instead of aluminum. I leave my 3 horse router in place when I'm changing bits and I like to see what I'm doing. Plan for dust collection and for storage. I like to have all my router stuff together, including my smaller routers and accessories including bits.

I use an Incra fence but frankly have never got my money's worth out of it.

[Tom Clark FL]

I made this router table over 25 years ago and if doing it today would not change anything. The fence is 8" high and used most of the time. Occasionally the incra-fence is used. Dust collection is from behind the table. There is very little dust when using it. All the drawers make good use of space most models waste.

[johnny means]

I would kibash the t-tracks and give my self ample overhangs on all four sides. This way you could design your fence and any other jigs to clamp in place. T-slots in MDF will get sloppy real quick. I like through the table dust collection, it works really well when the fence isn't used. Two or even three layers of MDF produce a lot of dampening for very little cost. Laminate is your friend and is easily replaced when it wears out. A regular light switch is a cheap alternative to an expensive "router" switch.

Here's one i built from melamine not to long ago. Im really pleased with it, except for the middle drawer, which will be a door when i get the time.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?163397-New-Shop-Built-Router-Table&highlight=

[Rich Engelhardt]

I think I can make T-tracks built into the fence and table surface using a keyhole bit instead of having to buy them. Is this a good idea or should I just buy them?? I keep thinking that one time of over tightening a screw/knob and it would tear out.
Buy em.
Those little screws hold very well if you bed the track in some adhesive.
Get the track with litte "fins" on the backside.

Run some Elmer's School Glue in the channel then bed the T-track into it while it's still wet.
The MDF will swell up and lock the T-track in place.

I had the same concerns - glued and screw the tracks into a scrap piece then tried to pull the track out.
The MDF broke - but - the track stayed solidly in place.

If you ever need to reclaim the T-track, just take out the screws and hose the MDF/track down with water. The Elmer's School Glue will wash right out.

[Duane Bledsoe]

Will that glue making the MDF swell up, also make the MDF surface of the table swell any?? Other than that concern, that sounds like a good idea. Also, I like the idea of overhanging table on all sides for clamps. And I do plan on supporting the MDF with 2x material of some kind, or angle iron. I want it stout and rigid so I wouldn't rely on the MDF alone.

[Myk Rian]

Double layer of 3/4" MDF is all you need.
Put the tracks on it. You'll need them some times.

201936

[Paul Snowden]

I made this router table over 25 years ago and if doing it today would not change anything. The fence is 8" high and used most of the time. Occasionally the incra-fence is used. Dust collection is from behind the table. There is very little dust when using it. All the drawers make good use of space most models waste.


How do you have your fence attached?

[Duane Bledsoe]

That's a beautiful router table.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Will that glue making the MDF swell up, also make the MDF surface of the table swell any??
It hasn't that I can see - but - I don't usually use all that much. A little go a long way.

[Tom Clark FL]

How do you have your fence attached?

The plastic knobs are locked onto threaded rods, and the rods go through the top into some pieces of aluminum bar on the inside of the top. Look closely at the previous photo. The fence can be quickly removed just by loosening the knobs. I have never seen a use for metal tracts. Anything needed can be instantly attached with a c-clamp direct to the top or fence…

[Mark Conde]

I built Norm's RT about 5 years ago. It has served me well. However, if I had to do it again, I would buy one -- maybe the Kreg version or something similar. I spent good chuck of time building mine and the cost was not light either.

[Jim O'Dell]

I built mine with 2 layers of 3/4" MDF, and sitting on a grid of 3/4" plywood that is about 5 or 6" wide. I also didn't use any T-track. While it would be nice for attaching feather boards and such, I wanted to keep the integrity of the top solid as possible. I use an original Woodpecker PRL with a PC7518 motor on it, and the Incra fence. I made mine 54" long, and about 36-38" deep. One drawer for the Incra manual and templates, 2 for router bits, 201971 and a door to get to the router DC box with tool storage on the inside of the door. 201972 Pictures are before the doors were stained and sealed. Jim.

[Jeff Nicol]

What I did was go to a surplus store or thrift store, Goodwill etc. and see if they had an old table top from a small table or desk. I found some here where I live that were 3'x2' and about 1 3/4" thick all solid MDF with a laminate top and the rubber bullnose edging all the way around. This is the top and I put in a 3/4" aluminum track to use a square like for a table saw, I plan on putting some "T" tracks in eventually for certain processes that will be repeated often. Also I have one in the fence for attaching feather boards or bearing hold downs, stops etc. I bought one of the plates from Rockler for the router to mount on, as I had a plain aluminum plate I made that worked fine but the plate would leave gray streaks on the wood as it rubbed on the plate. I tried to put some lacquer on it but it would wear off and back the gray would come back so the "Anodized" blue on the Rockler plate was a good thing to do.

Good luck with the project,

Jeff

[Todd Bin]

I think Jeff is right on. It doesn't have to be fancy. One of the things I don't like about all of the "pre-fab" router tables is that the distance from the bit to the front edge and side edge of the table is just too small. Once you use something bigger that can really support your stock it is hard to go back.

The router table in the pictues belongs to Charles Neil (You can google him if you want more pictures). He used a solid core door and a pretty basic base to support it. One other nice feature is a fence or fetherboard or anything else can just be screwed to the surface of the table. You can also see he has an old Table Saw fence that he can use for sleds etc. This thing is extremely versitile.

202141202142

[Duane Bledsoe]

One more question. Can the table be supported using 2x material and reasonably be expected not to bow or warp later?? A lot of 2x4's I buy start out nice and strait but end up bowed even after being nailed in place.

[Galen Nagen]

How big is the the router hole? Looks very nice.

GN

[Rod Sheridan]

One more question. Can the table be supported using 2x material and reasonably be expected not to bow or warp later?? A lot of 2x4's I buy start out nice and strait but end up bowed even after being nailed in place.

Duane, I wouldn't use dimensional lumber at all.

Purchase some good hardwood plywodd and rip it into strips, maybe 3 or 4 inches wide. It will be much straighter and easier to work wit, and it will be stable.

Regards, Rod.

[Duane Bledsoe]

OK, I can get Birch plywood in 3/4 size at Lowe's. Can this also be used to make the surface of the table?? If so, then one good 4x8 sheet should do it all. I just want a basic router table, maybe a 2x3 surface, with good support. I could double up the top for 1 1/2 inch thick table top, and use the leftover plywood for making the skirt around the table to support it further. I think I can get some 1/4 thick aluminum to make an insert plate as well, and then also there should be enough plywood left over to make a decent fence from also. Maybe I can use 2x stuff for the legs. The only problem is, looking at the plywood at the store, it all seems to have waves and curves in it. None of it is totally flat and rigid, but the MDF is.