Instructions or video for installing byrd head in a Hammer A3 31

[Paul Grant]

I've looked but can't find anything. It sure looks complicated which has made me reluctant to purchase it, or am I just overthinking this....

Anyone have a link to some info ???

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Paul, are you looking to upgrade an A3-31 you already own?

Regards, Rod.

[Paul Grant]

Yes. I used a 15" planer the other week with a byrd, it was so quiet and as good a finish in very nasty wood it makes me want to upgrade, but the mechanics of it are making me nervous.

[David Wong]

Here is some info you may find helpful - http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/power-tools-and-machinery/installation-shelix. I have been thinking about upgrading my A3-31 to a byrd head as well. I work out of my attached garage, and am limited to when I can use the A3-31 due to the noise. No complaints about the cut quality with the straight blades though.

[John Lanciani]

Hi Paul,

I have no direct experience with your machine, but I did recently put a Byrd head in my Rojek MSP415 16" J/P and it was not hard at all. Total time was less than 3 hours. As long as you have the exploded view of the machine and a decent set of tools it shouldn't be that difficult.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I've never done this and I don't own an A3-31. But I have heard they have good customer service and that they install these heads on their machines once they get state-side (as an option). So maybe you can give them a call for guidance since they probably know more about this than anybody.

[Paul Grant]

It seems that nobody has any clear instructions. I talked to Byrd and Hammer and both indicate a bit of patience and the parts diagram and all will be well. I'll go for it.

[Mike Gottlieb]

Paul, Did you go forward with the installation of the Byrd head on your Hammer A3-31? If so, how did it go? Any problems?

[Jeremy Williams]

Paul, Did you go forward with the installation of the Byrd head on your Hammer A3-31? If so, how did it go? Any problems?

[Ben Rivel]

FWIW I looked at purchasing a used A3-31 in great condition but it came with the straight blade cutters, so I thought Id look into what it would cost and take to upgrade it to a Byrd helical head only to find out neither Byrd nor Hammer/Felder could/would help. Youre pretty much on your own with that upgrade. I was very surprised Byrd had no instructions on the install. Made me think: "uuuhhh, you guys HAVE converted one of these right?! You do know it works dont you? Then why in the heck didnt you shoot some pictures and make a set of instructions when you tested it?!?!"

Conclusion: Ill be buying the A3-31 with the Hammer helical head already installed.

[Brad Shipton]

Its not difficult, but it takes patience and the correct setup tools to get it install it so it is level with the planer table and the jointer. I had mine out a couple weeks back again when I broke a plastic part being silly late in the day.

[Jim Andrew]

If you were buying a NEW Hammer A3-31, would it not be smart to get their silent power cutterhead?

[Jeremy Williams]

If you were buying a NEW Hammer A3-31, would it not be smart to get their silent power cutterhead?

Yes, however this is a 2012 machine. I'm looking to retrofit my machine.

[Ben Rivel]

If you were buying a NEW Hammer A3-31, would it not be smart to get their silent power cutterhead?
Yes and wait for the next sale as their sales knock off over a grand if I remember correctly.

[Jeremy Williams]

Its not difficult, but it takes patience and the correct setup tools to get it install it so it is level with the planer table and the jointer. I had mine out a couple weeks back again when I broke a plastic part being silly late in the day.

Did you find any instructions online? I'm semi-comfortable with this, as I have done it before on another machine, but this euro machine intimidates me a little.

[Brad Shipton]

No, but I can share the abridged version. It may not be exact, but it will give the mechanically inclined an idea of the general steps.

I start by leveling the machine using a machinist level. I lock the planer table low enough that I can lift up the jointer tables, and then using the adjustable feet I place shims under one of the roller feet until the table is level in both the X and Y direction. Some use a jig, but I find this works. A machinist level is necessary. You need to be fussy with this step.

After leveling you need to remove the access panels circled in the image. Both the chain and the belt need to be removed, from their drives so you need to remove the access panels. To remove the chain you need to loosen the drive sprocket nuts. Once removed you can reach inside and manually move the idler wheel so you can remove the drive sprockets. To remove the belt I started it off the edge and then turned the cutter until the belt pops off. I suppose a real machinist would loosen the motor nuts and back it off to avoid damaging the belt.

To remove the cutterhead you will need to remove either the infeed or outfeed table. I remove the infeed. There are few bolts and nuts to do so. Pay attention to the washers. These are circular on one side and must go back the same as they come out.

You also need to remove the dust hood because the shaft goes thru the holes in the cutter block. There is a lot of little kickback feet, so take a picture before you start. To remove you need to loosen the set screws in the collars, then simply slide out the shaft slowly. You may need to lift the dust boot to relive pressure on the shaft. Mine comes out without any excessive force.

There are chip diverters at both the infeed and outfeed. These are easily removed with a hex key.

Removal of the cutterblock is quite easy once you have all the basic parts off. You need to remove 6 bolts on either side, and then the cutter will lift out. Be careful as it is easy to knick yourself. I am sure the pro's have something to cover the cutter.

When I bought my shellix in 2005 it came with the bearings pressed on the cutter shaft. I assume they still do this. If not, I would take it to a machine shop to re and re those.

Replacing the head is a reverse of this. Keep in mind the mount holes are drilled with a tolerance spec. You can adjust the height of the cutter block about 0.025" or so in both the Z direction. I start by snugging up four bolts (two on each side), check for level, and then adjust. I repeated that until my level shows the head is level in both directions. This step takes me about 40min or so. A jig would be better for this.

Replacing the infeed table is the only other time consuming step. This requires the same patience to get them level. You will have to study the bolt arrangement to understand how to adjust the table so it is planar to both the cutter and the outfeed table.

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Here is a recent picture of mine I found. This is the picture I took to remind myself of the roller feet arrangement.
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Here is another of the cutterblock just before I removed it.
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This is how my machine looked while I waited 5d for new pressure infeed bolts I broke late one night being silly.
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I am sure there are better ways to do some of what I mentioned, but this should give some a good idea of what this entails.

[Bruce Page]

Brad, your file attachments are showing as invalid.

[Brad Shipton]

Bruce, I tried uploading them again, but I do not know what is wrong. They images were re-sized and the copyrighted material was blotted out. Suggestion?

[Bruce Page]

It looks like you got it figured out. :)