Pecan Burl HF

[Chris Burgess]

Ok I am sure you all are tired of looking at almost everything I turn but I need the feedback. I need to get to the point where I can sell some of this stuff to fund my nasty rounding habit....:o:o:o Also I get excited about all of these and want to share them....the LOML is not as excited:(:(


This is a small piece of Pecan Burl hollowed out for the Globe (2"Tx2.5"W) w/ a Poplar stem (5.25"T). Here is w/ 2 coats of shallac. Have not decided if I will leave it here ir try some spray lacquer. Thoughts?

C&C Please.

201854201855201856201857201858

[John Keeton]

Chris, I really like the form - very nice!! I am not a great fan of the super long stems, even though DD and others do them well. I wonder if galleries and others are somewhat hesitant to have fragile pieces within public access. I have encountered that a couple of times. If you like doing this type of work, I would consider doing the stem with a couple of thoughts in mind. IMO, any stem looks better if it has only one point of minimum diameter. In other words, it tapers to a point, and then gently curves out of that point with a reverse taper if necessary to meet a transition point. The other would be to consider the transition at the base of the form, and perhaps replicate the flow and curvature of the base, such that both are consistent.

Just some rambling thoughts that are worth the price you have paid for them!!

[Robert McGowen]

Your piece looks great in the long shots. Up close, it appears that the finish is really thick and almost looks like a plastic coating to me. I would use something really easy that doesn't require any touchup on a piece with so many voids and that much bark. Just dip the entire thing in Danish Oil or something like that. It might be the photo, but there also appears to be quite a bit of tool marks in the bottom of the burl. Once you start selling things, you will find out that it is a whole different ball game. Hope this helps. You obviously have the skill and I look forward to the next piece.

[David E Keller]

Looks like another neat piece to me, Chris! To add to the suggestions of the others, I'd consider coloring or burning the small section of the rim of the 'globe' portion that doesn't have bark... I think it would help tie in that area to the natural edge look. Looking forward to your next one!

[Jim Burr]

I'm glad you didn't get blown up by this one Chris! I'd think about taking some gloss out of the finish. It looks plasticly on a great piece of wood. Spray lacquer will orange peel on you and you'll end up wet sanding it.

[William Bachtel]

I don't like glossy items. Yours is overboard. Nice piece of wood.

[Chris Burgess]

I dont care for the gloss either. That is just 2 coats of shellac to seal it. Was wanting to spray it with a satin finish.

[Baxter Smith]

Cool form and nice piece of wood. I would agree with knocking back the gloss if you are able.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Great looking piece and nice form. I am not a fan of the long, thin stems either as I had one get broke at the gallery.

[Cory Norgart]

Very Nice Chris. I love the natural flaws, theyve always caught my eye. And I love the stem, very fragile work. Top Notch!!!!

[John Keeton]

Chris, I think the problem you are going to have with the finish is that the roughness that shows will simply "telegraph" through future coats of finish regardless of what you use. You may want to consider removing some of the shellac with some DNA, wiping lightly in one direction. Done carefully, this will leave shellac in the low areas of the burl. I apply shellac by hand - rarely do I spray it. When done by hand, one can control the flow and fill the grain and low areas better. Then, it can be wet sanded to level the finish even more. You need a very good base before you try to obtain your final finish - whether satin or gloss. Burls can be tough, as they have a tendency to "wrinkle" as they dry. Even if a piece seemed dry when turned, burl will still show some deformation after being turned. A lower sheen may do better in that situation.

If you want to sell your work, the other thing I think you will want to strive for is lack of tool marks. In order to demand a decent price, you must have nearly a flawless finish - both in the toolwork/sanding and in the finish application.

But, whatever you do, don't get discouraged!!! Form is the most difficult part of a turning, and you did well with that part. There is a lot of wood out there, and all of these things come with practice. So, grab another piece of wood and throw it on the lathe!

[Jim Burr]

To add to JK's response...sanding is a pain!!!!! Some great threads about sandpaper out there. Sharp tools are a huge must!!! Some equally great stuff out there about those. And practice!!! Don't limit yourself to bowls...you're a bowl turner, pens…you’re a pen maker...HF's you're a HF turner...and so on. Make some utility items, make a pen and a cheese slicer. Make a candle holder, make everything you can turn...for both practice and perspective. There are so many techniques to use that you can't discover them all by turning one or two forms.
This is just my opinion...again....just my opinion, once you turn a bit of everything, you are a turner...until then, you are a turner of what you limit yourself to.

[Michelle Rich]

I concur with what the gentlemen before me have said..On burls, skip the glossy finish. Sand it too 600 grit and polish it or oil it if you have to. the 600 will leave a low gloss. Shiny or low gloss finishes are geographical. Some areas of the country love high gloss, others hate them. Go to galleries & shows and see what folks are buying. Your stem could use a bit of tweaking as JK said. I think as a newbie turner you have done a fairly good job. Study the details, 'cause that's where we divide out the men from the boys. ( can a woman say that??? :-) ) Keep practicing & make many items and watch your progress. You will get better each & every one.

[Michael James]

I use shellac on almost everything under over around. If it's not too thick you should be able to knock it back with steel wool or the 3M pads would be better with all the voids (don't want wire whiskers) and then just rub that out. It should look "flat", but you will get a polished wood look if you can buff it, or buff out by hand. I haven't gotten even in the kiddie pool with finials and sticks, so no help there. Good luck on a nice piece.
mj

[Chris Burgess]

I was able to get the shellac off of there. This was my first time to use it and did not know what to expect. I am going to hit it a couple more time w/ DNA and let it dry untill all of the shine is off then go back to my old faithful...100% Pure Tung Oil BLO. This finishing work stresses me out. I need to learn the whole time and place for certain finishes. Thanks everyone for your feedback. It really helps. As for the stem this was number 2 for me and is great practice w/ the skew. Also need to learn the ins and outs of stem making/creating. I actually got the idea from the latest woodturning design article.

[John Keeton]

Chris, Alan Carter is the king of thin stems! He does some excellent work, and I think they have their place. His works are normally comprised of many elements, and he uses the thin stem for the extremely fragile suspension of his forms in an interesting manner.

You mention tung oil and BLO (boiled linseed oil) in the same phrase. You may realize this, but they are two entirely different things - with different properties. The shellac probably has sealed the wood somewhat, even with removing most of it with DNA. You should still be able to get some saturation with the oil, however.

Don't give up on shellac - it is a great arrow in the finishing quiver. You just need to play around with it and others to find your comfort zone.

[Chris Burgess]

You mention tung oil and BLO (boiled linseed oil) in the same phrase. You may realize this, but they are two entirely different things

Yea I missed the 'and' in there. Those have been my 2 finishes of choice since I started as they are most forgiving to an extent. I really prefer Tung as it soaks in and hardens in the wood and you can just keep coating until you get the sheen you are after. I am sure there are other oils out there I can use but the shelf life concerns me. I hate to only use one but I dont want to waste either if it gels up before I finish......I hate wasting and a small bottle lasts FOREVER

As for shellac I wont give up....I have money invested in my can. What I did on a Pen may be the way to go. While it was spinning on the lathe I sprayed the shellac on a paper towel and rubbed it on. No gloss w/ that application.

John you have been a great help and I really appreciate it.

While in the local Woodcraft I was speaking to the gentleman behind the counter and he said "No one wants to help or share their knowledge more than a woodturner"...ain't it the truth.

[Chris Burgess]

Some pics w/out the gloss nonsense... just 3 coats BLO:confused::confused::confused::confused:

201950201952201951201954201953

[John Keeton]

Chris, looks much better!