Beall buffs - Wax Buff leaves fuzzys

[Tim Thiebaut]

I have been useing my Beall Buff for a while now, the first 2 wheels dont give me to much of an issue with strings and fuzzys anymore, a few strings come out here and there but nothing that is to bothersome. but the Wax buff is driving me nuts, it is leaving tiny little fuzzys all over the pieces I buff. I use the esteemed Mr Fairfields advice and use the edge end of a "2x"2 to clean all of the wheels prior to use each and every time. It is absolutly constant flying strings and fuzzys everywhere! Does anyone have any suggestions on how to combat this infuriating issue?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tim,

Typically when I first get a buff and eventually later, I will take some 80 grit sandpaper held over a block of wood and rough up the face of the Beal buffs. This removes the strings.

[Rick Markham]

Tim,

Typically when I first get a buff and eventually later, I will take some 80 grit sandpaper held over a block of wood and rough up the face of the Beal buffs. This removes the strings.

I'm filing this one away in my mental toolbox, I know this is going to come in handy... Thanks Ken

[Chip Sutherland]

Out of the box, what Ken says is right. You are supposed to 'season' them with sand paper. When I have gotten build up from over-applying a grit, I will revert back to the sand paper. Sometimes I will do it in reverse to 'raise the grain' and remove the build up. I get fuzzies from time to time...but it is only on the carnuba wax. I hand buff with a fresh, lint-free cloth after Bealling which seems to remove any fuzzies.

On thing....Does anybody remember what speed we are supposed to run the wheels and/or bowl buff bowls. I can never remember.

[Andrew Arndts]

I'm filing this one away in my mental toolbox, I know this is going to come in handy... Thanks Ken

Ditto!
I will do the same

[Steve Schlumpf]

Another vote for Ken's suggestion of using 80 grit sandpaper. It does make a big difference but you will still get some dust when buffing. I have never been able to totally eliminate that but it is a lot better than before a wheel is broke in!

[Doug Wolf]

Out of the box, what Ken says is right. You are supposed to 'season' them with sand paper. When I have gotten build up from over-applying a grit, I will revert back to the sand paper. Sometimes I will do it in reverse to 'raise the grain' and remove the build up. I get fuzzies from time to time...but it is only on the carnuba wax. I hand buff with a fresh, lint-free cloth after Bealling which seems to remove any fuzzies.

On thing....Does anybody remember what speed we are supposed to run the wheels and/or bowl buff bowls. I can never remember.

I have the Don Pencil buffs and run the wheels at 1200 RPM and the 3 and 4" ball buffs at little faster.

[Harvey Ghesser]

"Sometimes I will do it in reverse to 'raise the grain' and remove the build up. I get fuzzies from time to time...but it is only on the carnuba wax."


What some have been doing as well as myself is substituting Ren wax for carnuba. It lasts longer and won't show fingerprints. I apply a small amount on a rag then wipe on. It dries almost instantly. Then I buff as normal. This leaves a really nice sheen.

[Don Alexander]

the Beall set i got has an instruction sheet that recommends running the wheels at around 1800 rpm (better maintain a solid grip on your bowl though) the mushrooms for doing the interior of the bowl came with instructions that recommended the same 1800 rpm

i put some thick cardboard over the ways of my lathe when buffing which protects the bowl somewhat if it accidently bumps the ways for any reason

HTH

[Tim Thiebaut]

"Sometimes I will do it in reverse to 'raise the grain' and remove the build up. I get fuzzies from time to time...but it is only on the carnuba wax."


What some have been doing as well as myself is substituting Ren wax for carnuba. It lasts longer and won't show fingerprints. I apply a small amount on a rag then wipe on. It dries almost instantly. Then I buff as normal. This leaves a really nice sheen.

I use Ren wax exclusively since I got my set of buffs on the advice of Steve S., my carnuaba is still brand new in the wrapping untouched, Thanks Ken I will try the sandpaper on it in just a little bit here and see what happens. Also will try handbuffing with a cloth after it comes off the wheel as well. All good suggestions thanks to all, Tim

[John Keeton]

I buff with the wheels at about 750, without a lot of pressure. However, I nearly always wet sand my finish with MS and 600 grit prior to buffing, so the tripoli works pretty quickly.

[Bernie Weishapl]

+1 for Ken's method. My motor runs at 1750 rpm. I will also use this same method if my buffs get loaded especially the tripoli.

[Harry Robinette]

I clean my buffs with about 12 hacksaw blades taped together into a stake, I know that sand paper will leave grit behind when using it on wood so why do that to my buffs.They use to sell a special rake for the old buffs but it tends to tier the Beale buffs. Works great and no chance at grit in my buffs.
Just my $.02