How to use WOP

[Chris Burgess]

I am about to use a Gloss WOP for the first time and had some questions.


Can I use WOP over a dewaxed Shellac? Says no Shellac on the can but was not sure if they were meaning a waxed shellac.
Can I thin the WOP to get a more even/forgiving coat or is that necessary?
What is best way to apply WOP? Brush, Sponge brush or Rag?
Any assistance on this would be appreciated. I have been working on this for a while and hate to mess it up on the finish.

[Jim Burr]

I have good results with a paper towel on the lathe at low speed. Can't help with the shellac.

[Roger Chandler]

I have used gloss WOP over dewaxed shellac a number of times and gotten a great finish from it. I usually use the Zinzer seal coat [100% dewaxed shellac] to pop the grain, and then after a couple coats when dry, sand back to about 600 grit, and then apply the WOP....does a great job.

[Prashun Patel]

"Can I use WOP over a dewaxed Shellac? "

Yes. No over waxed shellac. Yr interpretation is correct.

"Can I thin the WOP to get a more even/forgiving coat or is that necessary?"

Not necessary. WOP is thinned enough to wipe fine. Any thinner and all you'll do is give yrself the job of more coats to put on. In fact, if you want to save some $$, you can buy regular full strength poly and thin 25-50% with mineral spirits.

"What is best way to apply WOP? Brush, Sponge brush or Rag?"
Personally I like blue, quartered shop towels. I like to sand to 400 or 600, and then apply the 1st coat liberally with the rag. For subsequent coats, I like to apply thin coats with the lathe on.

[Tim Rinehart]

I am curious about this application while on lathe...I've not tried that. I get acceptable results with piece off lathe, but does take good care to make sure you don't get too heavy of a coat or a dry edge that doesn't level out. Need to work fairly quick.

[Jamie Donaldson]

WOP is not a friction type polish and works better off the lathe than on. I apply it full strength with a paper shop towel, then wipe off excess and allow to dry as long as necessary. Since I seldom want a gloss finish, 2 applications usually give the surface coverage and satin appearance I want.;)

[Tim Thiebaut]

I have done all of mine on the lathe with it spinning and have had no issues at all, and had some really nice comments on my finishes lately. Clean throughly with MS before doing anything. I buy bulk clean/washed white cotton shop rags and will cut a stack of cut pieces about "2 x "2 to always have ready. With one of these folded in quarters I apply liberaly the first coat, once coated evenly I dont allow it to spin any longer...it will have a tendency to collect at high points if you let it continue to spin, so once on I shut the lathe off and remove the piece to my curing box where it will set until dry enough for the next coat, usualy 24 hours on the first coat. Once I start on the rest of the coats depending on humidity I can get a coat on very 12 hours, I have been averageing 6 to 10 coats per piece. For me personaly I think I can apply it more evenly across the work piece while it is turning on the lathe. Thats how I do it for what its worth...

[Steve Schlumpf]

Chris,

I use Minwax Gloss Wipe-On Poly for just about everything these days.

The application process that I use: Once the form is complete and sanded I remove it from the lathe and apply the first coat of poly. For this first step I use a 1" foam brush and try to saturate the wood just like I was using a Danish oil finish. Be sure to wipe off any excess after letting it soak into the wood for a few minutes. I let that dry for 24 hours and check for coverage. If the poly was absorbed into sections of the form, saturate the form once again and wipe off the excess.

After waiting for at least 24 hours to let the saturated coat set up, you can then apply the first of many thin coats. I use a paper towel folded up to make a small pad, wipe on a thin coat and let dry for 3 to 5 hours, depending on the temp and humidity. Usually the thin coats dry really fast because they are so thin and should never be thick enough to cause a run. If you miss a spot – try not to go back over as it will lift the existing wet poly. Just make sure to hit the missed spot the next time. The process is more like a French Polish as far as applying the thin coats. I normally apply 2 or 3 coats this way before doing the first light sanding using either a super fine sanding sponge or 600 grit sand paper just to knock off the nubs. I repeat the procedure until I have the level of finish (or gloss) that I want - usually an additional 5 to 7 thin coats.

I find the Minwax Wipe On works great when real fresh but starts to dry up as soon as the can is opened. It’s nothing more than regular Poly that has been thinned down so it will flow better and dry faster. When you notice it get thicker (and darker in color) - just add a little mineral spirits, shake well and you'll be good to go.

Also, I know that some folks use a base coat of de-waxed shellac instead of saturating with poly. Seems to work well but I do not have any experience using shellac.

[John Keeton]

I am a Schlumpf convert to WOP. For years, I used it on flat work, but when I started turning I tried all of the other finishes - lacquer, AO, etc., but came back to WOP. However, I am also a huge fan of BLO and dewaxed shellac. My application method is usually BLO wet sanded with 400 (sometimes 320 first), then several coats of shellac wiped on and wet sanded back with MS to fill the grain on porous woods (e.g., Claro walnut.) Then I apply WOP as Steve suggests with the exception that my first coat does not soak in. I do let it dry for 24 hours.

I have also switched to satin WOP as it seems to lay on better for me, and buffs out to the same gloss as the gloss WOP.

[Chris Burgess]

Great info everyone. Thank you all. So many ways to come to the same result its overwelming.

[Prashun Patel]

The reason I like WOP (or any wiping varnish) with the lathe on is because you end up rubbing much of it off, which keeps the build low and even, with no drips at all.

[Eric Holmquist]

Whenever I use WOP over an airbrushed piece, I spray a light coat of dewaxed shellac first to prevent wiping from smearing the image, and it has worked well every time. I've never needed to thin it and always apply with a scrap of t-shirt cloth.

[Chris Burgess]

Great info. Thanks everyone.

[Wayne Hendrix]

... and wet sanded back with MS to fill the grain on ...

What is "MS"?

[John Keeton]

Mineral spirits.