Lesson Learned

[Tom McMahon]

For the last few days I've been rehabing a stanley4c. The bottom of the front knob was crushed so I cut off the bad part and sistered on a new piece of wood,turned and redrilled it. The tote had been broke and fixed with glue and a wood screw. I rebroke it, glued a peg where the wood screw was and reglued the break, shaped and sanded the patch. I then refinished the tote and knob with true oil. Next I removed the rust from all the metal parts and and cleaned and polished everything. At this point I rejapaned the casting with engine enamel. I left lapping the sole for last. This morning on one of the lists I read Rarebear's post about cracks in castings. You guesed it, when I started lapping I found a very small crack in the sole at the corner of the mouth. I swear you could not see until I started lapping. Lesson learned lap first. I thought I had a plane to sell but it turns out I've got another user. It still makes fine shavings and works well but how many #4s can I use.

[Tom McMahon]

sory about the one picture, but I can't figure out how to edit it. I finally figured it out, pictures are OK now

[Jim Dunn]

Who cares if it has a crack? With shavings like that I'd be proud to own it. By the way it looks very nice too.
Jim

[Dan Moening]

Tom,

I may disagree with your conclusion: Lesson learned lap first
and ask why?

Was there something in the performance of the plane that indicated it wasn't "flat"?

Did you "measure" the sole for "flatness" with an accurate {Starrett or other} straight edge and feeler gauges {or other precision device}?

I don't ask these questions directly to you, but all of us that immediately {assume and} include lapping as part of the refurbishment of a handplane.

Seems to me that lapping would naturally be a part of "fettling" after the plane has been refurbed:
-properly seating and adjusting the frog; if need be,
-ensuring the capiron fits flush to the blade,
-ensuring the levercap provides proper hold without gaps; and file flat if need be,
etc.

Guess what I'm asking to the forum is :
Is lapping the sole an immediate concern, or as performance dictates?

That is a fine clean up job, great repair work and a beautiful looking plane.
And the curlies certainly tell all! {crack or no crack ;)}

[Dan Gill]

Tom, if it's a good user, you could still sell it. Just won't get as much for it. Lots of folks need a good user, but aren't all that good at refurbishing.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Group question:

We have all read posts on various forums of those who get shavings under .001" thick, with some even down to .0005". My question to the group, is what do you typically achieve and what is the set-up of the plane?

I have several #4 as users, one a SW-era with a Hock blade and L-N chipbreaker and I'm lucky to get under .002"! I've lapped, fettled, fussed and cussed to no better shavings! My other #4 is a WWII era, with Stanley blade and chipbreaker, also lapped, etc. and I can regularly get .0015" shavings, and if I'm extra careful dang near .001". My #7 Bailey, without a whole lot of fussin' also gets .0015"shavings, with stock blade and chipbreaker.

I'm curious to hear from the Veritas, the L-N and the ECE crowd, as to what you all achieve and what extra special tricks are used to eek out those final tenths of a thousandth inch.

[Dave Anderson NH]

What follows is my opinion and others may disagree.

Thin shavings of and by themselves serve little purpose except in figured woods. In gnarly grain and heavily figured woods they are useful since at the low depth of cut they are less likely to tear out part of the grain. Occasionally you might also need a thin shaving to get down to a particular thickness such as when you are trimming a tenon cheek to fit a mortise or doing other joinery, but this is not usually a bench plane task. Thinner shavings also can often provide a more highly polished surface, but only if the cutting edge is really sharp. Most of the time the ability to take a super thin shaving is an indicator that the mouth of the plane is nice and tight, the blade well bedded and without vibration, and that the blade is very finely sharpened and honed. Other than these mostly special considerations, a ultra thin shaving is mostly a matter of bragging rights--- though cynically, we all need these once in a while. Most of the time a thin shaving is counterproductive since it takes; more time, more strokes, more energy, and an occasional edge touchup to do what could often be done with a whole lot less fuss. What would you rather do, take off .062" with 15 strokes of .004", or 62 strokes of .001" and do a blade rehoning mid way through?

[Steve Kubien]

I'll agree with you Dave. I got your back, man!

I have never measured the thickness of a shaving with anything more scientific than the naked eye. My principle smoother is a 45 degree Knight coffin. If I lean on it, I take thicker shavings than if I let the plane glide and merely guide it along (you can read through those shavings if you are so inclined). That comes in really handy when creeping up on a desired thickness. Truth be told, either surface looks great (in my eyes) with oil, shellac and or wax.

Having said all of that, you won't find a bunch of birdseye maple or wacky weird grained stuff in my shop. I would be happy if the world was made of straight grain pine and modesty grained cherry, and when I become master of the universe.......!!!!!!

But I digress,

Steve Kubien
Ajax, Ontario
-watching the snow turn to slush....

[Louis Bois]

Nice job on the refurb Tom. You've turned a scrapyard junker into a "really useful engine" :)

...as to the subject of fluffy shavings...I have a plane...an amazing plane. It literally takes shavings that I can't even see, let alone measure...someday...perhaps...I'll put a blade in it.
:rolleyes:

[Tony Zaffuto]

Dave and Steve,

Thanks for the honest and forthcoming response. Quite frankly the thin shaving thing never much occupied my mind until on a few forums I see so much talk about the thinness of shavings!

Dave, congrats on the inclusion of your marking knife in Woodworking! I've looked over your website and one of these days, may call to order a bowsaw. Looks lovely!

T.Z.