Mortising Machine or mortise attachment for drill press?

[Sean Rainaldi]

I was thinking about purchasing the grizzly G7946 drill press and was wondering if it would be better to get a mortising attachment for the drill press, or buy a seperate mortising machine instead.

Does anyone make good mortising attachments for drill presses that would meet or beat a seperate mortiser in quality of work?

Thanks.

[Clint Olver]

I think you are going to find a lot of people have nothing good to say about the attachments. In fact, in these threads someone usually offers theirs up. A drill press attachment is inconvenient to set-up and take down, and does not perform like a dedicated mortiser.

C

[Sean Rainaldi]

OK thanks - for 500 bucks or less who makes the best mortising machine?

Actually I have the 24" Leigh D4R dovetail jig would I be better off to just get the mortising kit for it?

[John Coloccia]

Both General and Powermatic make very nice mortisers. For about $500 you can get the tilt head mortiser from General. For less, you can get the fixed model from General or Powermatic. I thought the General unit was a little bit beefier and bought the General for myself. I have since sold it because I only used it once or twice and decided I could do it faster by hand at that rate. I suspect most people don't really need the tilting head. If I didn't want the tilting head, I'd probably get the Powermatic. If you want to go cheaper, maybe give the Wood River one a look, especially for occasional use. The drill press attachments are horrid contraptions. I don't know how Norm made it work all those years. If I really wanted to use my drill press, I would use a regular drill bit it to clear out most of the waste, and then come in with bench chisels and square everything up. In fact, this is a fantastic way to make mortises using stuff you probably just have laying around.

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

I have two drill presses, so I leave one set up with my horrid mortise attachment. For the most part the attachment works just as well as a bench to Powermatic that I have used. It's also a floor drill press so it doesn't take up bench space. I don't do enough mortises to justify a dedicated mortiser, and if I did, I would buy a slot mortiser, not a hollow chisel.

The key to successful hollow chisel mortises is all in the chisel and drill set up. There is no such thing as having a hollow chisel too sharp. You also need clearance between the drill and the chisel.

[Myk Rian]

I have two drill presses, so I leave one set up with my horrid mortise attachment. For the most part the attachment works just as well as a bench to Powermatic that I have used. It's also a floor drill press so it doesn't take up bench space. I don't do enough mortises to justify a dedicated mortiser, and if I did, I would buy a slot mortiser, not a hollow chisel.

The key to successful hollow chisel mortises is all in the chisel and drill set up. There is no such thing as having a hollow chisel too sharp. You also need clearance between the drill and the chisel.
+1 on all of that. I use a vintage Delta mortiser on my vintage Delta DP. It's not at all horrid.
I probably use it as much as John did his dedicated machine, but it does a good job. There is some wiggle room when doing mortises. I take the most care making the tenons to fit correctly.

[John TenEyck]

IMHO, a slot mortiser is far superior to a chisel/drill mortiser. I've used the drill press attachment option and was not impressed. I moved to a router based approach long ago and see no reason to do it any other way. A router cuts a much smoother side wall than any chisel based approach. I used handheld router jigs for a long time, but finally built a router based horizontal slot mortiser for less than $50 which is the cat's meow for ease of set-up, speed and accuracy. You can find pictures and a SketchUp drawing of it at this link, if you have an interest.
http://sites.google.com/site/jteneyckwoodworker/current-projects

[Sean Rainaldi]

IMHO, a slot mortiser is far superior to a chisel/drill mortiser. I've used the drill press attachment option and was not impressed. I moved to a router based approach long ago and see no reason to do it any other way. A router cuts a much smoother side wall than any chisel based approach. I used handheld router jigs for a long time, but finally built a router based horizontal slot mortiser for less than $50 which is the cat's meow for ease of set-up, speed and accuracy. You can find pictures and a SketchUp drawing of it at this link, if you have an interest.
http://sites.google.com/site/jteneyckwoodworker/current-projects

John

Did you use MDF?

Only thing I am concerned about doing a jig like yours (if it's MDF) is moisture. It's very humid where I live.

[John TenEyck]

What do you think about that Leigh router jig setup John?

I will check out your jig if I can make one for 50 bucks that's less then something store bought...thats for sure...

Sorry Sean, I've never seen or used the Leigh router jig setup. Leigh is well respected for high quality stuff, but my opinion on most router jigs, including my own, is that they are too slow to set up. You fiddle with this and that, make a test cut, fiddle some more, until you get it dialed in. With the horizontal slot mortiser, set up is only a couple of minutes and no test cuts are required. I did a write up on my little machine here a while back - which gives some details of the build process. If you do a search I'm sure you'll find it. If you do decide to build it and have any questions, I'll be happy to try to answer them. It's actually pretty straight forward.

[Sean Rainaldi]

Did you build it out of MDF?

[Jamie Buxton]

I have a drill-press hollow-chisel mortiser. It works okay. It does take a while to set up, so I use it only when I'm doing a whole bunch of mortises -- like making an Arts & Crafts settle with 60 square spindles. For mortising in most furniture construction, I use a plunge router. In my view, the downside to a dedicated hollow-chisel mortiser is space. In my shop, tools must justify the space they demand. If they can't do that, they don't get into the shop. A mortiser, which only does that one thing, eats too much space. A drill press, which can do that hollow-chisel thing, and does drilling too, is versatile enough to get space. And a plunge router, which does a zillion things, and isn't very big either, has a very high function-to-space ratio.

[michael case]

I have a Delta. Its the newer type, but made when their quality was a bit better. It works nice, but I hardly use it. Its attached to the top of a rolling cabinet which contains my Omnijig. The mortiser's main function is as a counter weight to keep the cabinet from tipping for when I open the Omni jig drawer. I got it at a crazy sale at Rockler for $150.00 and they threw in a $20 gift card. So really $130.00 Thats why I don't cry over it using as a weight. Johns quite right routered mortises are far easier and more precise. If your not up for building a slot mortiser, consider the Mortise Pal for $170.00 which is a great router jig for mortising. You an also make one, though the MP is really well made and convenient. If your going to spend $500 there are better places to spend it

[Peter Scoma]

I bought a mortise attachment for my DP. I put it on once, took it off and never plan on installing it again. I keep meaning to craigslist it. I prefer to hog out my mortises with a forstner and chisel out the rest. Any excuse for handwork I guess.

Anyone in the market for a cheap delta mortising attachment let me know.

PJS

[Rod Sheridan]

My only complaint with router based mortising is that it uses a router:D

I don't like the noise or mess of a router.

I have a General International bench top machine that I have used for a decade and it works great.

The key is sharp tools and proper adjustment, along with a well built sturdy machine. You really do get more when you buy the GI machine, great fence and vise, good hold down, cast iron dovetail ways with brass wear strips, and a nice long handle for leaverage.

Yes a slot mortiser makes smoother mortices, however the mortising machines make mortices similar to those made by hand. A little roughness doesn't translate into looseness, and the glue holds just fine.

If it didn't, all the high quality furniture made over the last few centuries would be in the wood pile.

Regards, Rod.

[John TenEyck]

Did you build it out of MDF?

Sorry I missed your question, Sean. Yes, I built mine out of MDF. A single 3/4" x 2' x 4' piece is enough for the one I built. The thicker sections are glued up with Titebond. It's now about a year old and the humidity in my shop is 65% according to the meter I have hanging in there. I have had no trouble with anything binding in the summer or getting sloppy in the winter. I really cheaped out on it and used hard maple for the runners, thinking I might have problems in the summer, but that has not proven to be true. The sleds slide smoothly with no slop on the runners year 'round. I was going to put a coat of Sealcoat on it to give it a little protection from moisture/water but never got around to it and don't think I'll chance it at this point. I can't say enough about how easy and accurate this "machine" is. And did I mention cheap? It took me less than 8 hours to make.

[shane lyall]

I tried the drill prees deal long ago. While not perfect, it did a few mortices in whatever project I was working on at the time. I do remember it was in poplar. Next time I set it up I was in 10 year air dried red oak and it gave me a fit. I started doing them with a forstner bit a bench chisels until I bought my Jet benchtop. Its not a perfect, top of the line machine but well under you $500 limit. If I were useing it every day I may look at a high end one but for now and then use it's fine. The key with either set up is scary sharp.

[Steve Griffin]

You can spend well under 500 and get a mortising machine. My shop has been giving the under $300
Delta a real workout lately and it's one of my favorite tools.

How important is a mortising machine? Let me put it this way--if you primarily build furniture I'd put it ahead of a drill press any day. Heck, I'd put it ahead of a bandsaw purchase if you have a jig saw.

Mortise and Tenon is the joint of furniture to me, and making square holes with the pull of a lever makes them fast and fun.

-Steve

[Kevin Godshall]

I just completed my first "hand cut" mortise and tenon piece, an English Garden Bench, and now have a new-found respect for our neanders here. This is truly a skill and an art, and I didn't realize how much of either it was until I took on this project. My cuts were no where perfect, but my joints came out strong and satisfactory.

Not doing a lot of mortise and tenon work, but kind of wanting to now, I took the cheap route and bought a Ryobi attachment for my drill press on ebay. At $9 + $9 S/H, I felt I couldn't go wrong. OOPS. Got it hooked up and could not even get it into a piece of pine. Struggled for an hour and gave up. Read a bit online and thought would try one more thing: very sharp chisel and auger. Found a brand new one on ebay for $5 with free S/H, so gave it a try.

It arrived today and blazed right through even the white oak that I tried. I was very impressed. How long will it last? I don't know. Hopefully, long enough till I can get my skill set up good enough to do all hand cuts. (After all, outside of a dedicated mortiser, isn't that where everyone is ending up?).

My drill press is small, but I read up a lot on set up and speed. I'm looking forward to building an Arts and Crafts nightstand next week or so. Will update with how it turns out.

[John Nesmith]

If I were willing to invest $500 in a new machine for cutting mortises, I would bite another bullet and get a Domino.

[Mark Valsi]

If you are in the Pasadena CA area, I'm selling a Jet Mortiser cheap !

[David Helm]

I have the drill press rig. Don't use it much. The big problem is you don't have the leverage that a dedicated mortiser has.

[Gary Herrmann]

You can probably pick up a used floor model mortiser for under $500.

[Prashun Patel]

I'm going thru this eval process myself right now. I haven't found too many people that love their mortisers. I find many people who have abandoned their's for other methods.

I finally decided on the Mortisepal (thanks, Bill Huber) and a tenon jig for my table saw. This allows a lot of flexibility:

For speed, use the Mpal to cut mating mortises on both pieces with a router, and then use loose tenons. Plenty strong.

When you feel like making a real M&T, you can cut the mortise with Mpal and the tenon on the table saw. Then you can use a file to round the corners of the tenon to fit the mortise, or use a chisel to clean the corners of the mortise to fit the tenon. In fact, you can use a square hollow mortise chisel to do this very quickly and accurately.

It's a hybrid solution, but plenty strong. Also, it'll only set you back the cost of a Mortisepal; you can even build the tenon jig yrself.

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

I have the drill press rig. Don't use it much. The big problem is you don't have the leverage that a dedicated mortiser has.

I see statements like this all the time, and to me, it means you don't have the tool sharp enough and set up correctly. I can easily mortise hard maple with my 1/2" bit in my horrid attachment.

[Paul McGaha]

I have a hollow chisel mortiser. A floor standing unit from Powermatic. To me hollow chisel mortisers have a lot of advantages in that they are easy to use, not a lot of dust or noise, pretty affordable (especially a benchtop machine).

Like mine a lot. Most of my projects are mortise and tenon and I use it on pretty much every project. Woudnt be without it really. I use my hollow chisel mortiser far more than I use some of the tools in the shop (shaper, bandsaw, drill press).

Good luck with it.

PHM

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a hollow chisel mortiser. A floor standing unit from Powermatic. To me hollow chisel mortisers have a lot of advantages in that they are easy to use, not a lot of dust or noise, pretty affordable (especially a benchtop machine).

Like mine a lot. Most of my projects are mortise and tenon and I use it on pretty much every project. Woudnt be without it really. I use my hollow chisel mortiser far more than I use some of the tools in the shop (shaper, bandsaw, drill press).

Good luck with it.

PHM

I agree, I have the GI benchtop machine and wouldn't be without it.

I make a fair amount of A&C furniture, and the hollow chisel mortiser works great.

As Paul indicated it's easy to use, quiet, doesn't spew dust everywhere and it makes nice mortises.............Regards, Rod.

[David Hostetler]

I am using the drill press / chisel method. I had a Delta attachment for a while and found it to be just too much of a pain in the tail to use. So I sold it. I will likely be buying a bench top mortiser eventually... I've never needed to cut a mortise at an angle, but I can see where that might be useful, a tilting table would be nice if you could squeeze it into your budget.

[Jim Rimmer]

I have a Delta drill press rig and the last time I used it I couldn't get it set up right. I made a mortising jig for my router and built a tenon jig for my table saw this weekend. I also just read an article on cutting tenons with a band saw. I'm going to try these before I consider a dedicated mortiser. However, if I made a lot of A&C or Mission furniture, it would be a no-brainer to get a mortising machine.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I have the GI benchtop mortiser. I find it easy to use and will putting in to use over the next few days. Diamond cone hones for the chisel and honing both the interior and exterior of the chisels improves funtioning dramatically IMHO.

[Steve Griffin]

Just finished 72 mortises for 4 bar chairs.

Yet another project which didn't need a drill press at all. Like I said earlier, I can live without a drill press, but not the magic mortise machine.

Also pictured is where I keep it--in the otherwise wasted back corner of the jointer. 95% of the time that is where I use it, but it's easy to unbolt it and put it on a workbench for really long or awkward pieces.

-Steve

[Bob Landel]

I know it's expensive, but I love my Domino. The Domino is easy, fast, and makes a strong joint. I feel almost guilty using it. I feel I am cheating myself out of learning an additional woodworking skill. You know what? Who cares a mortise is not something that shows up for view in ones work anyway. It is more a matter of function in my mind.

By the way, I purchased (and returned as many as I could) just about every type of mortise machine/jig available. I still own a mortispal and the JessEm mortiser.

None. I repeat, none, work as easy for me as the Domino does!

[Paul Canaris]

Sean, I would go to a woodshow and see if they will demo one for you before buying; or perhaps a fellow enthusiast in your area. I have owned a few Mortisers over the years from a Multico to my present a Northtech which is small shop industrial unit. The smaller ones I owned were a lot tougher to use then my current unit which blasts through white oak even in larger chisel sizes, you need to see if you would be satisfied. Also, the quality of the Chisels is paramount to good results. I do mainly A&C with through dovetails so for me it has been very worthwhile and a slot mortiser with rounded holes would be out of style. If you dont do a furniture style that requires squared exposed M&T a slot mortiser is much faster and very accurate.

[Dave Cav]

I have a hollow chisel mortiser. A floor standing unit from Powermatic. To me hollow chisel mortisers have a lot of advantages in that they are easy to use, not a lot of dust or noise, pretty affordable (especially a benchtop machine).

Like mine a lot. Most of my projects are mortise and tenon and I use it on pretty much every project. Woudnt be without it really. I use my hollow chisel mortiser far more than I use some of the tools in the shop (shaper, bandsaw, drill press).

Good luck with it.

PHM

Yeah, what Paul and Rod said. If you have a mortiser set up and ready to go you will use it a lot. Sharpen the chisels, and keep them sharp. I have had good luck even with the cheaper imported chisels as long as they were SHARP. That includes polishing the outside flats.

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