Saw Tote -- Repair or Replace?

[Mike Allen1010]

Below are some pictures of a golden era, Disston D-8, 28”, 4 PPI ripper with a beautifully stiff and straight saw plate. This is one of my favorite models of saws and I would like to put it back to work.

Unfortunately, as you can see the handle has seen much better days, with both horns broken off and some serious cracks passing most of the way through the handle, including one that goes all the way through the bottom edge of the handle opening.

On the other hand, the rest of the thumb hole, applewood handle is in good shape with relatively few dings, dents or tattoos.

I'm interested in feedback from the saw restorers in the crowd about whether I should repair or replace? Regrettably I don't have any apple, so I would have to replace the horns, probably with cherry and attempt to die/stain the repairs to match the existing handle.

Any and all feedback, suggestions and experience are very much appreciated!:confused:

Mike

[Matt Evans]

Those checks around the screws and separating the tongue from the body of the handle would be my only qualms in repairing the tote.

If the checks are solid, stable and won't cause issues, then I would repair it. If not, then a new tote would be in order.

If repairing the tote, I have found Mahogany to be a easily matched wood for older totes, though the grain may not match as well.

Just my thoughts, take 'em with a bushel of salt.

[Klaus Kretschmar]

Hi Mike,

to repair this handle seems to be possible but not that easy. The problem is less the missing of the horns but to handle the cracks it has. If you decide to repair it, it would be worth to look for some aged apple wood. I'm sure that there are members here having some apple wood and are willing to sell a little piece.

I'd probably go to replace the handle. Regarding the last shop made saws you've showed here, I'm pretty sure that you succeed with making a replacement handle.

In any case I recommend to download the template of this handle from Mikes site.

http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/images/patterns/handsaws/disston_d8_thumbhole.pdf

If you decide to repair it, the template helps to create the replacement horns correctly. If you'll go to replace the handle the template will help even more ...

Good luck!
Klaus

[Rick Lapp]

I have successfully (& permanently) closed checks like that by soaking overnight in antifreeze (per the late Dave Carnell from The WoodenBoat Forum) It dries without reshrinking or coloring dark wood. Try it, you have nothing to lose. Repairing the horns is easy-peasy. Rick

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I'd have a go at repairing first, if for no other reason than the closed-top blade slot of a D-8 seems like it'd be a bit of a hassle to replicate.

[Mike Allen1010]

Below are some pictures of the repairs I made to a golden era, Disston D8, 28 inch rip saw tote. The OP has the "before" pictures, but I will try and include them here if space allows.

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions; Josh as you suggested one of the reasons I went with repair versus replace was I have no idea how I would execute the cover top style slot for the saw plate.

After spreading open the cracks as much as I dare and forcing in Tite Bond 4 wherever I could, the tote now seems quite solid. I guess the ultimate test will be once I reattached the plate and put it back to work.

Matt, I took your suggestion and use some African mahogany to replace the horns. The mahogany shapes and glues well but the grain pattern is a little off from the original tight grained, vintage applewood. The dye I used also doesn't match the color of the original applewood very well.

I would appreciate any suggestions for currently available hardwoods and dyes/stains that others have used successfully to match the grain/color of the original applewood ?

I was thinking maybe cherry or beech would be a better match for grain pattern provided I got the right stain/dye?

Thanks, Mike

[Terry Beadle]

Looking goooood !

It's a classic.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I think it looks good, and honestly, I'm more interested in my tools looking "decent" than "perfect", and being comfortable in my hand above everything else.

You could always use a darker stain and get an ebonized look going on over the whole thing! I'm not too proud to admit that in a few situations, I've gone for an all over black to make multiple woods match up decently. Milk paint also works wonders.

Of course, I don't think that's quite what you want to go for here!