Delta tenon jig

[Ira Matheny]

10 Years ago, I purchased a used Delta Uni-saw. I was given a tenon cutting jig. I never looked at it until now, as I need to do some 'Mortice & Tenon' joints.
However, there are no instructions included. And I am unsure how to set this tool up. There are no 'model numbers' to be found on the tool.
Does any one have any instructions?
I tried to go on line but found nothing.

[Mark Carlson]

Ira, it looks like a 34-183 or 184. Here is a link to the 183 manual.


http://servicenet.dewalt.com/Products/Detail?productNumber=34-183#


~mark

[Dave Lehnert]

The link above looks like what you need.
Here is a link to the Rockler jig that "looks" the same.

http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000421AA.pdf

[mickey cassiba]

I found this at dewalt's site
http://servicenet.dewalt.com/Products/Detail?productNumber=34-184#
Whoops...I really should read the whole thread before replying.

[Kent A Bathurst]

This might help a bit.....Photo one has the jig reversed - the leading end is toward the camera. Photo 2 has it correct - but the jig is on the wrong side of the blade.

Also - you are missing the two push handles. One goes where the zinc-plaated hex-head bolt is, and the other goes in the tapped hole to the left [in photo 2] of the black metal Warning label.

And last - and this is a big problem, IMO - the black steel alignment plate that sits behind the screw clamp is supposed to be straight - not all bent up like that. I don't see how it can be used accuratley and safely until that alignment plate is replaced. You stand the rail up against that plate, tighten the clamp to hold it to the milled iron face, push it through the blade, back out the screw clamp, rotate the rail 180*, clamp and go again - perfectly centered tenon.

I'd imagine that equivalent push handles are available from a jillion sources. Lord knows what a replacement alignment plate costs, though.

I like mine - when ever I'm making multiples, I always use it - once you get the hang of it, it is easy to set up - and often, the last setup is correct for the next one [3/4" or 13/16", depending on how you do your stuff].

[Joe Angrisani]

....And last - and this is a big problem, IMO - the black steel alignment plate that sits behind the screw clamp is supposed to be straight - not all bent up like that. I don't see how it can be used accuratley and safely until that alignment plate is replaced. You stand the rail up against that plate, tighten the clamp to hold it to the milled iron face, push it through the blade, back out the screw clamp, rotate the rail 180*, clamp and go again - perfectly centered tenon.

I'd imagine that equivalent push handles are available from a jillion sources. Lord knows what a replacement alignment plate costs, though.....

If the Delta parts are silly-priced, I'm pretty sure the parts from the Grizzly tenoning jig will work. I've used Griz handles and widgets on my Delta benchtop mortiser, my Omga radial arm saw, and my Jet 17" drill press to name a few. Here's the parts list for the Grizzly tenoning jig: http://cdn0.grizzly.com/partslists/h7583_pl.pdf

The alignment plate is #57, part number PH7583057. The handles are #7 and #35, both part number PH7583007. They have 10-1.5x20 studs, so check yours.

[Floyd Mah]

I had one of these for years, with the manual, and it was not intuitively obvious what the adjustments did. Do what I did. Take the tool apart. There's only a few pieces. Then you will learn what the adjustments do and you can clean it up. If you check under my posts, you can also find an improvement that I made to it.

[Jim Rimmer]

I just watched a video of Norm at http://www.newyankee.com/online.php and he uses a jig a couple of times in the video that looks like yours. Take a peek and see it in action.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I had one of these for years, with the manual, and it was not intuitively obvious what the adjustments did.

That's true, but it's not very complicated. Looking at Photo 2:

To the far left is a black knob attached to a threaded rod. This controls the "fine-tuning" adjustment.
On the surface of the plate are 2 spring-loaded plastic locking handles. The smaller one - towards the middle of the plate - locks the bushing on the fine-tuning theaded rod. To get the fine-tuning knob to work, this one has to be locked.
The larger locking handle is the positional lock - that keeps the plate from moving after you have it set up.

So -
1] release both locking handles
2] move the vertical surface [where the rail will be clamped} so that it is "eyeball close enough ballpark".
3] adjust the fine tuning knob so that you are somewhere in the middle of the threaded rod.
4] lock down the smaller handle onto the bushing
5] turn the fine tuning knob to get where you want to go [I always "start fat", and sneak up on the final tenon width]
6] lock down the positional locking handle.

[Myk Rian]

Here's a simple rundown of its use.
200820

200823

200821

200824

200822