Lighting in Finish/Spray Room

[Kenneth Reidy]

Happy 4th to all!

I am putting together the electrical/mechanical plans for a new shop and I was wondering if anyone has any specific recommendations for lighting in a small finishing room. Any input would be appreciated.

Enjoy!

Ken
Albuquerque

[Matt Meiser]

I'm just getting mine put together and literally just started the finish electrical a few minutes ago. My room is 16x9 with an 8' ceiling. I'm going to have 2 receptacles, both with outdoor covers since they are near the finishing area. My fan is 1/2HP so I have a motor rated switch nearby, again with an outdoor cover. Near the entrance I'll have the light switch, as well as another motor-rated switch which switches an outlet outside the room for my HVLP turbine.

For lighting, I'm going with 3 of the 8', 4 lamp T8 fluorescent fixtures. That's 12, 2900 lumen lamps--close to 35000 lumens, or about the equivalent of 20 100W bulbs. Two of the fixtures are over the spray/finishing side of the room and one will be over the mixing/storage/drying side of the room.

Since I'm not spraying solvent-based products, Mine is not explosion proof. If you are, that's a whole different story.

[David G Baker]

Matt,
Have you thought about covering your tubes with the clear plastic tubes designed to cover fluorescents. If your tubes can get some spray on them the covers may be worth thinking about prior to setting up and spraying.

[Matt Meiser]

I saw those for 8' T12's at Lowes but that's it. I was wondering though if they'd mess with light output or color though? The fixtures I bought have a wire guard available but I'm not sure I need them yet.

[Stephen Cherry]

If you are going to spray, good lighting is critical to a good finish. It needs to be brighter than you think, and also, if I remember corectly, at an angle so you can see the film of finish on the surface come together. I haven't done it in a while but good lighting makes a night and day difference on your spray results.

[Jim Neeley]

Yes, Stephen.. for the best finish you want a low-angle raking light shining on the surface, so you can see the wetness, build and any pools or dry spots. Of course, those can be swing-arm or portable as well.

If you get the chance, take a tour of a high-end custom body shop paint shop's booth. Their lighting is pretty incredible!!

[Larry Edgerton]

Include at least one full spectrum light so you can color check.

I agree, go see a good automotive booth.

Larry

[dave toney]

What Jim #6 said, the best lighting is from all sides and overhead too.
You want to be able to see light reflected off of the surface as much as possible.
I put 4' fluorescent fixtures, mounted vertically on the walls, spaced about 2' apart, in my spray room.
If I could afford it I would put the lights a foot apart or less.
Dave

[Matt Meiser]

Some photos of my lighting installed yesterday at lunch and this morning. The bright light/white walls doen't make for good photos, but its very bright in there and I plan to use a stand-mounted light as well if needed. Receptacles and the fan switch are covered with outdoor covers to protect from overspray. The light switch and a switch for the turbine are located near the door. The turbine receptacle is outside the room and I'll have a tube that runs through the wall for the turbine hose. Turbine will be located in a box with a filter.

200734200735200736200737

[John Coloccia]

Are you guys using the proper hazardous area lights? Many people get around that requirement by installing windows and shining spots from the outside. Sometimes, you make the ceiling a window and put a light on top.

[Matt Meiser]

I'm not but I spray WB products and occasionally a little oil based paint for a machine or tractor implement. The latter people spray from rattle cans all the time and create way more overspray than my HVLP in worse environments so I'm not too worried.