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View Full Version : Powermatic 3520B won't come on.



Bernie May
07-02-2011, 5:39 PM
I tried to add a double pole switch to my 3520B so I didn't have to keep plugging it in and pulling the plug out at the end of my work session. I didnt' come on when I threw the new switch, that is, the lcd panel on the headstock did not light up. Nothing seemed wrong with the switch, but I took the switch out of the line and it still won't come on. I tried the red reset and the green start buttons on the back to no success. I opened it up and smelled the wiring, but there was no burned smell. thoughts?

Josh Bowman
07-02-2011, 6:14 PM
Bernie,
Leave the DP switch out and leave the unit unplugged for a while...maybe 30 min. Then try it. My jet has the same controls and acted up one day. That seem to fix it. I never unplug my lathe. I did add an aux. switch so I didn't have to keep pushing the big red button.

ray hampton
07-02-2011, 6:36 PM
I not trying to high-jack your thread but how can I add a switch to a 220 volt line, do the switch break both lines

Steve Schlumpf
07-02-2011, 6:48 PM
Bernie - really dumb question on my part and I am not trying to insult you... but did you remember to turn on the breaker after you wired in the new switch?

Bernie May
07-02-2011, 6:50 PM
Thanks guys and keep the suggestions coming. I left it off for several hours and then retried - still nothing. The line is hot. I tested it with my Sawstop.
-bernie

Jeff Nicol
07-02-2011, 7:02 PM
If you are going to put a switch on the 220v in you will have to get a switch that will break the connection on both hots at the same time. Or you can get a relay that is triggered by 24V that has the capacity for the amps on the 220V line. This is what I have on my dust collector and I can turn it on or off in 3 different locations in the shop, very easy to do. What kind of double pole switch did you use? You would need a double pole double throw without a center off position to do it correctly. If you have the booklet for the S1 VFD you can wire in a switch that will be ON (UP) OFF (CENTER) REV (DOWN) using the bank of small wires that come out of the VFD. This may be something out of most folks desire to try but the booklet will explain it all, but not sure what it does to the warranty if you goof up some thing.

If you only had one leg of the power off it may have did something bad??? Not sure if 110V only going to the VFD and the switch was turned on how it would react, never tried that one by accident or on purpose.

I know, too much information! Good luck,

Jeff

Bernie May
07-02-2011, 7:26 PM
It was a 20A 220V double pole switch that breaks/connects both hot lines at the same time. not sure why that should have been a problem. doesn't seem any different than pulling/plugging into the outlet.

Doug Wolf
07-02-2011, 8:14 PM
Bernie, I assume you carried the ground wire through to the lathe. And you are just switching the two hot wires.

ray hampton
07-02-2011, 8:22 PM
this post may not be the same subject but pulling a plug or plugging a machine in while the switch is on can burn the prongs on the plug

Bernie May
07-02-2011, 10:01 PM
Doug - yes i carried the ground through on the switch. I now have the switch out of the system completely. I have looked at the plug several times and the ground wire and the two hots seem to have great connections in the plug.

Ray - I never pull the plug unless the lathe switch is in the off position. Pulling the plug only effects the electronics coming on, very similar to the sawstop electronics coming on. That is, no power surge.

It seems to me it has to be something within the electronics package.

Keep the suggestions coming.

Larry Komroff
07-02-2011, 10:23 PM
Bernie, look at the VFD (on the back of the headstock). See if the display has any codes on it or even looks like it is getting power. You might have to reset it if there was a fault Those buttons stop/reset and run might be disabled.

Bernie May
07-02-2011, 11:28 PM
Larry-
No power appears to be reaching the VFD, so there is nothing lit up, i.e., no code to read.
-bernie
PS I am wondering if I am not pressing the red and green buttons correctly.

Larry Komroff
07-03-2011, 7:27 AM
Bernie, If there is notjing on the VFD, chances are there is no power reaching it. I am not sure how you added a switch. Did you take the plug off and connect the wire to a switch? As far as the buttons on the VFD, I believe they are programmed to be not used. I have attached a troubleshooting flowchart from the VFD manual.

William Bachtel
07-03-2011, 9:05 AM
I wood call powermatic's service dept.

Daner Steel
07-03-2011, 9:18 AM
Do you not need to power the relay In order to turn the lathe back On?, I'm not much of a plumber, but once you take the power from the lathe, the relay will open...and the lathe needs power back to that relay to send the full power to the lathe

Dick Strauss
07-03-2011, 10:33 AM
The switch you want is a std 220V switch (Double Pole (for 220V)/Single Throw (since it is on/off only) or DPST). It should have a total of 4 hot connections and a ground connection. The wire coming from the wall should be on the "line" side connections and the wire to the lathe VFD is the "load" side. Connect the ground from the wall and continue it to the VFD.

A lot of VFDs will display LV if only one leg (110V instead of the full 220V) is getting to the VFD. It should not cause any issue for the VFD. Check the voltage after the switch to see if you have 220V on the load terminals with a multimeter. Then check to see if you have 220V at the VFD terminals. If you have 220V at the VFD but no lights, the VFD might be dead or might need to be reset.