BLO and handsaw handle

[Zahid Naqvi]

I slobbered on some BLO on a saw handle I am refinishing. I usually don't use BLO by itself without thinning so this is new for me. Should I wait about a week or so (until the smell goes away as a sign of completed curing) before I start layering shellac.

[Chris Fournier]

I would not recommend using schellac on a tool handle where sweaty/dirty hands are going to be gripping it for extended periods. Varnish would be a far better choice of topcoat.

[Zahid Naqvi]

I thought shellac was a commonly used traditional finish on hand saw handles, maybe I am wrong. I my mind anything glossy will be too sticky for a saw handle, I'd have to dull the varnish to something like satin to be comfortable.

[Howard Acheson]

Chris is correct. Shellac will not stand up to perspiration. I also question why you put BLO of under the shellac. In fact, many old time carpenters used Raw Linseed Oil on hand tools and on items like axe and shovel handles. Linseed oil does not leave a slippery surface. Film type finishes are slippery when you hands sweat and require extra effort to hold and control the tool.

[Zahid Naqvi]

I haven't put shellac as of yet, just a good coat of BLO.

[Chris Griggs]

I finished a couple saw handles by first soaking them in Watco Danish Oil (natural) and then just giving them a couple light spray coats of clear dewaxed shellac, just for a touch of build and sheen. My understanding was that shellac was a finish often used on hand saw handles back in the day. I was concerned it would be slippery, but did knock it back with some wet/dry sandpaper and steel wool, and it's very comfortable to hold.

I'm not disputing anyone, as I very recently refinished these handles and can't say how well the shellac will hold up.

To Chris and Howards point - I have encountered a number of old disstons where the finish didn't hold up. Looks like I may need to rethink my handle finishing.

I'll be watching this thread to see what folks suggest.

[Scott Holmes]

To give the handle more protection from sweat etc. I would use an oil/varnish blend. Equal parts of BLO, varnish (doesn't really matter what kind) and mineral spirits. This is also what I use on workbenches if they are to be finished at all.

With an in-the-wood finish you can sand the wood to 100 or 120 and you will get a nice comfortable grip that will not slip in your hand.

[Jerry Olexa]

All good points above but let the BLO dry at least a week before you proceed with next step...

[Jim Becker]

Personally, I'd just let the BLO cure for a bit and then lightly wax the handle, if that. This is a tool to be used. It will develop a nice patina from that use. And I really do like the silky feel that just the BLO imparts on the wood when it's going to be in one's hand.

If you truly do want to top coat with something more "protective", I'd use a thin wiping varnish rather than shellac, simply because sweat and acids from one's hands will likely make it feel a little gunky.