Carcass saw?

[Steve Stack]

How useful is a carcass saw and what priority would you give it in your saw purchases? To me, it seems that a dovetail saw, ie rip vs xc can do the major functions of the carcass saw in so far as the small shoulder cuts usually found and I would be better off getting a larger sash or tenon xc saw, 14-16", which seems like would be better suited for general xc cuts. What am I missing, what is the majic spot for a 11-12" carcass saw? Thanks,
Steve

[David Weaver]

You really have to use the saws yourself to see what you like.

You can cut shoulders with a dovetail saw as long as it isn't too small (i.e., if you're using a saw that's got a few inches under the spine and is more like 10" long).

But, I think if I was given the choice, I would rather have the larger saw in rip for cutting the tenons, and have a saw in the 12" range for cutting the shoulders and small crosscuts.

I would rather have a panel saw in the 10 tpi range to cut larger pieces to length.

But it's all preference, and it's hard to tell what your preferences are without trying things out.

[Joel Moskowitz]

I started out thinking a carcase saw was number two but the general current consensus of the folks in my office is that a combo filed sash saws far more versatile. In the literature sash saws seem faqr more common than carcase saws, although that's amongst woodworkers in general not specifically cabinetmakers.

[Chris Griggs]

To me, it seems that a dovetail saw, ie rip vs xc can do the major functions of the carcass saw in so far as the small shoulder cuts usually found and I would be better off getting a larger sash or tenon xc saw, 14-16", which seems like would be better suited for general xc cuts.
Steve

I felt the same way when I bought my first back saws. Ideally, you would try a few, some people (like me) are happy with bigger saws - some folks prefer smaller. Trust your gut if you are unable to try saws. My two first, and two main back saws are an 11 inch long rip carcass (for my dovetail saw), and a 14 inch long crosscut "tenon" saw (for my carcass saw). I've never regretted this decision even though most makers (except Mark Harrell of Bad Axe) seem to market a 9 inch DT saw and a 11-12 inch xcut saw as the best first two saws. Its not that the scale of my work is particularly large - actually my projects tend to be fairly small. Its just what made sense to me.

Once again, research the different options and do what makes sense to YOU.

I now have a 10inch xcut, and 12 inch xcut saw is on my list of things to get and would be nice to have - but I would never choose either in place of my larger xcut tenon/sash.

[Pedder Petersen]

I think there is a big confusion about saw names. From my understanding the term "carcass saw" only refers to the length, as do dovetail , sash and tenon saw. Maybe the name refers to the handle form, too (open or closed) but I'm not sure about this.

So wich saw to buy? It depends of the main work one planes to do with the saw.

If you make small boxes most of the time, a 18tpi rip saw and a 15 tpi crosscut saw might fit the best.

If you make tallboys a 15 tpi rip cut and a 12 tpi and a 10 tpi rip may be the better choice.

Length of the saw has nothing to do with the pitch. I've just made a 11" 18tpi croscut sawblade (Yes, my eyes needed a full day to recover). Some like saws to be longer, some shorter.

Cheers
Pedder

[Chris Griggs]

You really have to use the saws yourself to see what you like.

I would rather have a panel saw in the 10 tpi range to cut larger pieces to length.

This is an excellent point. One of the reasons I always liked my 14 inch xcut is so I could cut somewhat larger pieces at the bench. I recently acquired and rehabbed a 9ppi 20" Atkins panel saw - I put 25 degrees of fleam into it to give a really smooth cut. I find myself using my xcut tenon saw much less now and more often thinking it would be nice to have a smaller carcass saw. I'll even use the panel saw to crosscut on the bench with a bench hook.

To some extent - the choice between a small carcass or large xcut tenon/sash comes down to specialization vs. versatiliy. A larger tenon/sash is probably more versitile, but a smaller finer toothed carcass may make it easier/ do a better job at taks requiring more precision.

[Pedro Reyes]

I am of the type who prefers "tools that are specialized" over do all tools, perhaps because it is not my source income, so convenience is not that important, and my love for tools is part of that "hobby".

I have tools which can do similar tasks, like a 140, a Record 50 and my Veritas side rabbet could all cut a small rabbet, but I've decided to save the Record for groves, the 140 for endgrain and instances where a 78 (which I also have ;-)) or the rabbet are not convenient... same with my dovetail and my xc carcass, I could cut small shoulders with my dovetail saw, but I have the other one there. So in my brain, my excuse for having them is that it allows me to sharpen one tool (plane or saw) less often and once I am in sharpening mode, might as well knock several blades or saws.

When people walk into the shop and ask "what the heck is all this, I explain how this one is for this type of cut, and that one for that type of cut ;-)

/p

[Steve Stack]

OK, so the consensus is that there is no consensus, it "depends", on types and sizes of projects, how specialized one wants tools to be, etc., but it appears the 14-16" size is more versatile. Thanks to all who replied, I do appreciate it,
Steve

[Tony Shea]

Of late I have decided that I want a 12" rip saw. I own a dovetail and 16" rip tenon as well as some crosscut saws. But for smallish work like tenons on small cabinet panels I find the 16" tenon a bit large. I usually end up using my dovetail saw for that type of work. But sometimes the dovetail saw is too small. I just feel more confortable with a smaller saw for small tenons and such therefore am going to pick up a 12" LN tenon saw when I visit their open house in a couple of weeks.

[john brenton]

There is something to be said for having a tool dedicated to only one task. For some reason I'm only that way about the dovetail saw. I don't like using it for anything else. That's the only reason I would consider a rip back saw. I usually use the ryoba, even though it is a little more difficult to keep straight. But generally I find that as long as I'm careful with the start of the cut it does a beautiful job on tenons and other things. It's just to convenient to have two in one. I don't think I'd ever purchase the ryoba with the adjustable spine in the middle...but it makes sense.