Adjust-A-Bench with Cabinet instead of Spreaders? - Racking or Success?

[Jim Neeley]

As I'm well-along on mounting my vises to my workbench top, I've been thinking about how to maximize my tool storage. With the 5-1/2" spreaders / threaded rod per the instructions, I can mount a cabinet of drawers about 20" tall under it.

In my dream world I'd like to get most of the 5-1/2" of space back, especially since those drawers would be nearer the benchtop.

I figure there's no reason not to install at least the *top* rod, and another could be mounted near floor level but this wouldn't provide the anti-racking of having them close and with the board between.

Has anyone tried this or anything similar and gotten it to work? Is there a problem with racking? My tool storage space is at a premium.

If it matters, my top is 37"x84"x3.25" thick. I'm expecting to need to try to Eric's Vulcan linear springs solution to lighten the top for lifting.

Jim

[Zahid Naqvi]

Jim, I've never seen the adjust-a-bench but I am sure there are some creekers who actually have one. As a side note I have seen many benches with integrated cabinets, the only caveat is the use of hold fasts which requires some clearance under the top. Plus the requisite clearance you will probably need to leave under your bench for the adjustment mechanism for these benches of the top. I also see the castors on the inside of the bench.

[Jim Neeley]

Darned good point, Zahid... For some reason holdfast space had slipped my mind, even though I've picked one up for the bench. Boy, if I'd built the bench and the holdfasts didn't have space I'd be feeling pretty foolish!!

[Chuck Nickerson]

The cabinet between my Adjust-a-Bench legs is the spreader. I drilled the appropriate holes through the cabinet to use the threaded rods.
There is no racking. It would really help to plan and drill the holes in the internal cabinet pieces before assembly. DAMHIKT.

In the leg's/top's lowest position I'm likely to use for planing, I left 2" for holdfast clearance.
Next time, I'll leave 5".

[Jim Neeley]

Chuck,

To ensure I understand, you used the 4 pieces of threaded rod, in their "traditional" places but used your cabinet in lieu of the wooden spreaders, right?

Also, about how deep is your cabinet? The legs are about 17" wide but I'd like my cabinet to be about 30" to provide stability for my wide top. Is there anything special you've done to add rigidity?

I know that only second to my tendency to overthink things is my tendency to overbuild things...or is it the other way around? :D

[Gary Hodgin]

Jim,
I have an adjustabench but no storage cabinets. I do have a shelf running across the wooden rails. Here is a link to the user gallery on the adjustabench website. Some have built-in storage.

http://adjustabench.com/gallery.asp

[Jim Neeley]

Thank you, Gary.. Mike Beckerink has pictures in the gallery pretty close to what I'm thinking of. My casters run 90* to those which will let me run my cabs closer to the floor but will leave it more tippy (37" top, 17" wide "legs") when on the wheels so I'm going to have to improvise something pretty quick. A cabinet full of tools will help lower the center of gravity. I just wish I could look under the cabinet top to see what, if anything, he has running between the legs.

Hmm... I wonder if I have enough tools to provide the proper weighting... "Honey, I need to spend another bajillion dollars at LV and L-N right away... Safety, you know!!" Think this will work? <g>

[Chuck Nickerson]

Jim,

I don't remember the recommended placement for the rods. I ran them inside my cabinet, as high and as low as I could to get the best effect.

My cabinet is 28" deep. My top is 28" deep (24" plus 2" skirt front and back). Since I made it from 60" baltic birch plywood, the yield was good.

I made my cabinet's faceframe from one sheet, using a jigsaw to cut openings. I assumed (no proof) that would be stronger than a rail & stile frame.

[Jim Neeley]

Thank you for getting back to me, Chuck. I *particularly* like the cut out BB idea; either for the front and back or for two hidden supports, aligned with the rods.

Jim

[Eric Brown]

Hi Jim. You might consider making your cabinet a roll out box under your stretchers.
Another thing to think about is all the shavings that fall through the dog holes.
One trick you can try with the castors is to lower them until the frame is contacting he floor. (Hopefully it is level). That really helps make the bench feel more solid.

Have fun.

Eric

[Jim Neeley]

Eric,

That's not really feasible, at least for this version of the bench. My caster setup is like yours, running parallel with the benchtop. With the top at ~37" wide and the casters about 18", they're OK for level rolling but I'll need a wide and heavy base cabinet to prevent tipping. My plan is to have the cabinet reach to the ground when the wheels and leveling legs are lifted. The levelers are to be lowered just enough to level the bench.

Jim