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Jarami Reid
06-23-2011, 5:26 PM
Hi folks,

I've got a 60 watt Trotec. Does anyone know settings for alumamark?

Scott Shepherd
06-23-2011, 6:59 PM
I don't have a 60W or a trotec, but in my experience, the settings that they recommend are about a mile off (if you find the website for the company that makes alumamark, they have a chart for the settings).

On my 45W Universal, I think it's somewhere around 100speed and about 18-20 on the power. Too much power turns the black engraving brown, if I recall right. It's been a long time since I did it wrong, so I can't remember, but I do know the power is in the 18 range.

Jarami Reid
06-23-2011, 7:50 PM
For anyone else out there with a 60 watt trotec I've got some settings that are pretty good:

1000dpi, 1000ppi, 22 pwr, 35 speed, .1 offset and 3.75 lens.

This stuff is finicky . . .

Dan Hintz
06-23-2011, 8:21 PM
Jarami,

Why so slow? That also seems like a whole lot of power for that speed...

Bill Cunningham
06-23-2011, 10:25 PM
I find Alumamark varies from lot to lot.. I had my settings just perfect for photos on gold(I thought) with a few test pieces before I ran the main piece. I popped in a brand new piece of Alumamark I just received, lasered it, and was amazed at the poor result and faded looking blacks. Pushed the button again, and ran it a second time, and it was perfect. Soooo Not only the machines are different, the material will vary as well.. Plus, Silver can be a real PITA until you tweak/tweak/tweak then tweak again..

Mike Null
06-24-2011, 6:16 AM
One of the characteristics of Alumamark is that it must be engraved low and slow. It's a very finicky substrate and there are better options including one from JDS and laser or dye sublimation.

Scott Shepherd
06-28-2011, 4:35 PM
I find the opposite of that Mike. I engrave it with low power and high speed. I do an order of a couple hundred plates for a company every other month or so. I found their recommended settings to be grossly off. I think they had our 45W at 45 power, 80 speed, or something like that. We're in the 100% speed, 18% power range and get we nice, black marks.

Mike Null
06-28-2011, 5:45 PM
You will find that you'll need different settings for gold and silver.

Scott Shepherd
06-28-2011, 7:34 PM
I'm doing the satin gold at that setting and I think the aluminum did require in the mid 20's on power on our 45W.

James Rambo
06-28-2011, 9:01 PM
My 60 watt Epilog requires:
matte silver at: 100 speed 25 power
satin silver at: 40 speed 9 power
satin gold at: 95 speed 25 power
it took forever to dial in these settings

Jarami Reid
07-14-2011, 1:10 PM
Hi Dan,

So slow because that's what I got to work. Doesn't really make sense to me either - I got an acceptable result and stopped wasting time basically.

Michael Kowalczyk
07-14-2011, 4:21 PM
Jarami,

Why so slow? That also seems like a whole lot of power for that speed...
I agree Dan. I would almost triple it and try 60% power and 100% speed. Just match the power to the speed. I often use 100% of one or the other and move the other to get my desired finish.

Mike Null
07-14-2011, 5:19 PM
If you haven't used this stuff give it a try. Your logical theories will quickly bite the dust.:D

Michael Kowalczyk
07-14-2011, 9:03 PM
If you haven't used this stuff give it a try. Your logical theories will quickly bite the dust.:D
Hey Mike,
If this was directed at me, please let me clarify. Since I have not actually used Alumamark I would have to dial in the settings but I start with what is recommended and then move up til it no longer gives the best possible results. You may be correct but I still try to get it up to the fastest speed possible with the best results. QC is paramount. That's what keeps the customers happy.:D

Jarami why are you using a 3.75" lens? :confused: I use a 1.5" (Red) Lens because it is better for cutting thin sheets and better for engraving IMHO. I only use my 4" (Blue lens) when a larger depth of field is needed. Just an observation.

You probably already know that the longer the lens is, the larger the spot size/cutting kerf is and less concentration of power. Since yours is newer than mine, there may be improvements, in the focus lens area, that I am not familiar with. I know that they changed it quite a bit but would think that the new configuration would not change the properties of the lens. If anyone knows something different, please feel free to chime in.

thanks and ...

Bill Cunningham
07-14-2011, 9:57 PM
I find text is fairly easy to do on gold or silver, but photos are an entirely different matter.. Silver can have you pulling your hair out, and most times gold is OK with some sample tweaking on small pieces before running the actual job. Many times on satin silver, I have ordered a extra sheet just to supply tweaking samples to get things right.. Gold is a bit more forgiving. I have also found that if I put a U/V laminate over the finished piece it will stand up outside longer without fading .. Don't know for how long yet, I'm still testing but it's looking good.. I get my U/V laminate from my neighbor who uses it to protect her signs printed on a wide format solvent printer.. It seems to work well, she does most of the signs for Castrol in this part of Canada..

Mike Null
07-14-2011, 11:11 PM
Mike

My remarks weren't directed at anyone in particular but more from my own experience with this material and it's many peculiarities. My original low and slow remark was also from experience. There are some things that defy logic.

Bill, I've had to replace gold outdoors in a year. Didn't use a laminate though but just won't use it anymore.

They have introduced a material which is said to weather well.

Albert Nix
07-15-2011, 8:17 AM
I am with Scott...100S 18P. I like my 2.5 lens though. If it has been a while sence I have engraved any i will do a test bar. take a scrape piece and tape it down and start engraving a 1/4 vertical band. I set the Speed at 100% and start the power at 15%, let it engrave 1/4 or so then open the door so the laser turns off and let it raster for a second or two so that you will have a blank space, pause and raise the power in 1% increments up to about 22 or 23%, check and see where your best results are. I used to use my 2" lens but it seems that focus is very important on this material, I have srcewed up several big plaque plates when the tape came loose and the metal bowed up and through the focus off just enough make the engraving lighten up.

Bill Cunningham
07-17-2011, 8:41 PM
Mike

Bill, I've had to replace gold outdoors in a year. Didn't use a laminate though but just won't use it anymore.
They have introduced a material which is said to weather well.

I know this laminate is supposed to be able to protect the signs my neighbor prints for up to 5 years. She's had several up for almost that amount of time without noticeable fading so-far. Castrol uses green and red in their logo, and those, particularly red, are usually the first to go.. I have a few samples sitting out in the sun, it was 98deg F +/- for the last few days , so it's getting a good bake with no ill affects so-far..

Scott Balboa
07-19-2011, 1:16 PM
Do you own testing -- there is no magic formula. Engrave a series of "black" boxes, all 3-5% different in Power. Leave your speed at 90%-100% or whatever you usually do for brass or aluminum sheet stock. Start at 10% power and work your way up to 40-50%, then look at your boxes and you'll know which one nailed it.

Mike Null
07-19-2011, 4:04 PM
Bill

what's the brand and type of laminate?

Bill Cunningham
07-19-2011, 9:26 PM
Bill

what's the brand and type of laminate?

I'm sorry Mike I really don't know.. It's neighbor brand..ha.. I 'm not a signmaker, so I just generally assumed that UV protectant clear laminate for outdoor wide format printed signs would be mostly the same.. She had a roll about 12 inches wide that she had no use for so she gave it to me, and I just cut off what I need, pull the paper liner off the back and apply it..