Recemmond a good laser level system

[Jeff Monson]

Can I get some recemmondations on a laser level system? I have a large shed that needs to be leveled, I'd like a system that will shoot all 4 sides if possible. I also have a drain tile pipe I need to install at our lake lot, so I need a type of level system that I can reference off of. I'm assuming something like this can be used for all types of construction applications also. Is there a tool that wont break the bank that serves these purposes?

[Steve Griffin]

Hi Jeff,
A laser level is one of those tools which once you use you can't live without it.

If you do a lot of outdoor work, you need a rotary with audible readout.

If you do a fair bit of outdoor work, a laser chalkline with an audible readout device is fine.

If you mostly do indoor work and only occasionally use it outdoors, a simple laser chalkline will be fine. Just use it during dusk/sunset to do layout so you can see the line. This is what I use. It was fine for setting walls during framing, siding layout and sewer line, but I had to use it in low light times of day. I mainly use it for cabinet installs, and you are welcome to use it if you can pull it out of my cold dead hands. :D. Seriously, it's a must have tool.

I recently tested my CST/Berger laser against a PLS. A good way to check a laser level is put it on a tripod and shoot a line around a room. You will need to spin the laser two or 3 times to get around the room, and where the two lines meet is how much it is off. My CST in a 100' was off 3/16, the PLS 3/32. Both are pretty dang good and there is no other leveling method which could work as well. (presumably the difference is only half of the actual leveling error)

To level an existing shed, you only need to shoot two exterior walls right? If you are building the shed, you can laser above the dig and level all four corners and foundation walls or whatever you are doing.

With my good experience with the PMI, and it's larger angle of beam, I'd probably buy that one next time.

http://www.amazon.com/Pacific-Laser-Systems-PLS180-Tool/dp/B000QSGRTY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1308758025&sr=1-1

-Steve

[Scott T Smith]

Ditto Steve's comments. I have a CST/Berger unit that I like a lot. It's an outdoor unit rated for 1000', and it gives you the ability to place an intentional slope to the beam for shooting long slopes, etc. They are not cheap; I paid about 1,000.00 for mine 9 years ago.


Regarding leveling a building with a laser, there is a very fast and easy method of doing so. First, look underneath and determine the location of all of your piers and supports. Next, mark these locations on the floor of the building. Then, set up your laser inside and shoot the elevations at each location. From that info you can determine how much each location needs to be raised, and you can make all of your spacers/shims in advance. Then, just install the correct spacer on top of the appropriate pier, and your building will be dead on.

If you can't hit all piers from a single laser location, set it up where it can shoot through some doors to provide you with an elevation reference inside each room. Then, you can relocate the laser into the room and you'll have a reference for setting it to.

[Jeff Monson]

Scott, Steve

That is great information.

What is the main differences between a laser chalk line and a rotary laser?

Scott that is a great tip on leveling the building, that will work great as long as I can figure out how to read the elevations. I've never used a laser for this type of work before.

[Jeff Bartley]

Jeff,
A rotary laser projects a spins 360 degrees and projects a line all around; a chalk line laser projects a line through only about 180 degrees. Rotary lasers are much more expensive.
Elevations can be measured simply with a normal tape; while holding the tape vertically place the end on top of whatever your shooting, then read the tape where the laser shines. If you're anything like me it helps to have a notepad while attempting any more than one elevation!

[Steve Griffin]

oops, I just corrected my abbreviations for the CST/PLS lasers.

A rotary send out a signal or laser 360 degrees from the unit.

My CST shoots out 130 degrees, the PLS 180.

Recently I needed to mark a room for a chair rail trim. IF it I had a rotary, I would have just set it up once in the middle of the room. With my laser, had to reposition it 3 times to get around the room. But that only takes a minute to do, and is something I rarely need to do so I'm fine without a rotary.

-Steve

[Jeff Monson]

I checked out the PLS180, it looks like a really nice laser. They make it in a "system" with a SLD dector for outdoors. I'm leaning towards that right now. The dewalt DW087K looks nice also, less money but it does not look like it works well outdoors? I can see where this tool could be used for a wide variety of applications.

So let me get this right on reading an elevation, lets say "I want to find out the slope on my lake lot". Setup the laser on a tripod, on a higher part of the lot, measure from the ground to the line right at the tripod. Then go to various points and measure from the ground to the line again?? Subtract from the original location and you have your slope?? Sounds easy enough.

[Scott T Smith]

I checked out the PLS180, it looks like a really nice laser. They make it in a "system" with a SLD dector for outdoors. I'm leaning towards that right now. The dewalt DW087K looks nice also, less money but it does not look like it works well outdoors? I can see where this tool could be used for a wide variety of applications.

So let me get this right on reading an elevation, lets say "I want to find out the slope on my lake lot". Setup the laser on a tripod, on a higher part of the lot, measure from the ground to the line right at the tripod. Then go to various points and measure from the ground to the line again?? Subtract from the original location and you have your slope?? Sounds easy enough.

Jeff, I would highly recommend the detector; it's pretty much required for daytime outdoor work and usually a great benefit inside as well.

You don't need to reference the tripod height. Choose a location to be your "grade" reference, and measure from the ground to the laser line at that location. I prefer to use a stadia rod with the detector for this, and read right off of the rod. Let's say that your grade reference is 39-1/2". If you measure a different location, and it comes out to 40", then that spot is 1/2" lower than your grade reference. Etc, etc.

On leveling the building, a 20ton air/hydraulic bottle jack is the ticket if you have air available. Just set it up next to the pier (be sure to put something solid underneath it on the ground, such as a piece of 2 x 12), have your pre-cut shims ready, and jack up until you can slide the shim in, then let it down and go to the next one.

If you have significant change to make (over 2" or so), then it's a good idea to break up the lifting into smaller increments, such as the thickness of a 1 x 6. That way you're not placing too much stress on a wall (which can crack a window) as you're leveling out the structure. Once you get to your targeted elevation, you can pull out the 1 x 6's and replace them with some type of more durable shim (usually use PT lumber).

[Jeff Monson]

Jeff, I would highly recommend the detector; it's pretty much required for daytime outdoor work and usually a great benefit inside as well.

You don't need to reference the tripod height. Choose a location to be your "grade" reference, and measure from the ground to the laser line at that location. I prefer to use a stadia rod with the detector for this, and read right off of the rod. Let's say that your grade reference is 39-1/2". If you measure a different location, and it comes out to 40", then that spot is 1/2" lower than your grade reference. Etc, etc.

On leveling the building, a 20ton air/hydraulic bottle jack is the ticket if you have air available. Just set it up next to the pier (be sure to put something solid underneath it on the ground, such as a piece of 2 x 12), have your pre-cut shims ready, and jack up until you can slide the shim in, then let it down and go to the next one.

If you have significant change to make (over 2" or so), then it's a good idea to break up the lifting into smaller increments, such as the thickness of a 1 x 6. That way you're not placing too much stress on a wall (which can crack a window) as you're leveling out the structure. Once you get to your targeted elevation, you can pull out the 1 x 6's and replace them with some type of more durable shim (usually use PT lumber).

Thanks Scott, that makes perfect sense. I had raised this shed last fall with 2 20 ton bottle jacks. They worked great, I tried leveling it with an 8' straight edged level, it worked to some degree. I think it has finished settling on the new piers, so I'd prefer to do it as per your directions, as crawling under it with 20 different shims really stinks. With your method I can have them ready and in hand before I crawl in.

[Larry Edgerton]

You could save some cash and build a water level for about ten bucks. It will do either of the jobs you mentioned with ease, is more accurate than a lazer, and doesn't require batteries.

If you are interested I'll keep an eye on this thread, or PM me, either way.......

Larry

[Steve Griffin]

Water levels are awesome. They are super cheap, and for the occasional user hard to beat.

They can also do things a laser can't--when I was building a dory, I set one up and could level anything around the boat or INSIDE the boat easily.

A laser can do other things better though. It shoots a line, it is super quick to set up, and can level and plumb. Now that you can get one for under $200, they are pricing out well too.

If all you need is one shed leveled and one sewer line put in, consider the water level.

-Steve

[Jerome Stanek]

I use both a laser level and also a water level water leves are cheap but more accurate than a laser level.

[Jeff Monson]

I decided to make a water level, I spent a total of 23$ making it. For now that seems like the more economical way to get these jobs done, plus its a great learning experience. Very simple tool, I can't wait to give it a try this weekend on my shed.

Larry, you need to empty your pm box.

[Jerome Stanek]

If you put a little food coloring in the water it is easier to see

[Harry Hagan]

I've had one of these since it came out years ago. Back then 48" was the only size and I can't imagine going with something shorter. I pat myself on the back for buying it every time I need a level: Patio, sidewalk, cabinets, laying drain tile, etc. Another advantage over a laser is that line-of-sight is not required.

http://watrlevel.com/