Tool handles

[Jake Helmboldt]

I'm contemplating the purchase of a tool handle since I have heard so many people talk about how great they are (over a wooden one). So I have a couple questions. Let me preface this with the reminder to keep things respectful with regards to opinions of the competing products in light of the unfortunate gouge meltdown.

1. Does anyone have (or has tried) the Hannestool handle? The high density rubber grip seems appealing, but I'd like to hear from someone that actually has one.

2. I'd be curious to hear from anyone that has used BOTH the Thompson and Glaser handles and their impression of the differences, especially regarding the profile, diameter, etc and the way they feel in the hand. I realize that this boils down to opinions, but that is also why I'd like to hear from anyone that has used both.

I'd like to try them all myself, but obviously that isn't realistic so I'm relying on fellow Creekers to provide their comparisons.

thanks, Jake

[Scott Hackler]

I will be able to give you a FULL review sometime early next week, as I will be evaluating everyone of them in St Paul!! I have been wanting to get a metal handle for a while but with no store around here to touch the handles, I am waiting until the AAW Symposium to see and touch them in person.

[John Keeton]

Scott, I am already aware of some of your "wants" from the symposium. If you really want to end up with a handle, you better do that first before the total symposium outlay gets beyond spousal approval!:D;)

[Jake Helmboldt]

I wait with baited breath! Drool a little for me.

[Scott Hackler]

Scott, I am already aware of some of your "wants" from the symposium. If you really want to end up with a handle, you better do that first before the total symposium outlay gets beyond spousal approval!:D;)

lol, after almost 20 years of marriage she is used to the "toys"! I already warned her that there are a "few" things that I just MUST have. :)

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Jake,
I can tell you about two of the three. However, I won't do so for public review. If you want to PM me I will be happy to tell you my likes and dislikes of both. As for the Hannestool handle, I've not used it so I can't help.
faust

[Glenn Roberts]

Jake, As you mention, it comes down to personal preference. However, if you are looking at anything with tools then the features that make life easier are worth considering. Have you considered the Kelton ER handles? www.kelton.co.nz/index_store.html
They can be used individually or as a complete system. Kelton have been using the ER collet system for years, because it works so well, not like grub screws, which damage the shafts.

IMO changing to metal handles that do not easily cater for different size tools is hardly worth the effort. Other than perhaps looking more 'modern'

I don't live in a cold climate but bare metal can be cold to use, compared to a soft grip.

I hope this helps.

[Brent Grooms]

Another handle to consider is the Bennett Handle... aluminum core with grub screws but it also has a neoprene like cover that really feels good in my hands. To top it off... pretty in-expensive.

[Keith Burns]

Here is my two cents for what it is worth. I've not used the Hannestool handle but I have handled them. I did not care for the feel because they were small diameter and did not feel comfortable in my hand. I like the new Carter Products handle because it is a large diameter and easy to grip and the collet system works well and makes changing the tool easy. However my faforite tool handle is the Easy Wood Tools handle. Yes it is wood but the large diameter and shape make it comfortable to hold. I ended up getting several of his handles and have put my heavily used tools in them. The larger diameter handles cause less hand fatigue. Bottom line is try before you buy if possible or make sure you can return it if you don't like it.

[Jeff Nicol]

So far I have not touched or used any of the non-wood handles that are available on the market. The only metal handle I have is the one that my 5/8" Thompson "U" gouge is in. When I first got it I wanted to try it out right away so I stuck it in a 22" piece of 1/2" black iron pipe and it fit perfect so it is still in it and I have wrapped the pipe with 1/8" foam tape and then with some 2" wide heavy vinyl electrical tape. I use it to do most of my finish roughing when turning large vessels, the length and weight are great and I can weight the handle with lead shot when I want to with the cap on the end. Good old dumb luck on my part I guess!

I too will check them out at the sympsium this weekend,

Jeff

[Bill Blasic]

I did a review of handles for an upcoming edition of Woodturning Design Magazine, there are a lot of different handles out there. Different sizes, different weights, different methods of holding a tool and different prices. Maybe review is not quite the right word as I just try to let all know what is out there not my preferences. My best advice is to somehow get the handle you are looking at into your hand. For me my first requirement in a handle is that I can take the tool out of the handle to sharpen it as I feel safer swinging the tool versus the tool in the handle. Now with that all being said I'm going to be of no help to you as with all of the handles that I had in my hand there was not one that I did not like!
Bill

[Reed Gray]

While I have tried some of the handles out there, nothing beats the look and feel of wood. I have tried the lead shot filled handles. Just too heavy, unless maybe you like to hang out a long way off the tool rest. As to dampening vibration, well, wood does that as well. Just my personal preference.

robo hippy

[Rick Markham]

I like my Thompsons, good weight and feel, they have my name on them :D, they fit my hands perfectly, and they don't roll away if I set them on the ways. I won't lie, I like all the handles I have, Hopefully someday I will have a handle for every tool... I can always dream :cool:

[John Keeton]

I hope to see some handles while at AAW, but just as a side note, on the last handle I made for my 5/8" Thompson V, I drilled out the end and added a few ounces of lead shot. It adds some nice balance and seems to absorb a lot of vibration. I realize the tool itself is substantially heavier than the 1/2" gouge, and that alone contributes mass, but the handle sure seems to help a lot.

[Jerry Wright]

Many posts on this thread are discussing their favorite handle approaches and various ways to dampen or reduce the transmission of vibration from the cutting end of the turning tool to the woodturner. Woodturners also often discuss how to reduce vibration in their lathes from whirling out of round chunks of wood. Suggestions have included lead shot filled handles, large, dense wood, hollow handles filled with scrap steel pieces, foam covered handles, as well as just heavy handles and sand bags and sand filledbases on their lathes.

Based on a 40 year career in materials research, steelmaking and specialty steel application metallurgy forgive me for looking at this issuewith a few observations and a little data:

· Cast iron machine bases have been the choice for centuries because of the vibration dampening effects of the inherent graphite flakes in gray cast iron. These flakes break up and disperse sound waves as they flow through the base.

· The U.S. Navy has utilized hollow propeller shafts for years which are filled with carefully vibrated sand to reduce or eliminate the sonar signature that all shaft propulsion systems exhibit.

· Long boring bars used to drill large deep hollows in metals were traditionally filled with lead shot or other leadstructures to limit vibration.

· Large steel forging hammers have as a foundation under the lower steel die supports that is made of oaken timbers (laid in acriss-cross pattern) to reduce vibration transmission through the earth tonearby structures. (There is a famous case of a large steel forging hammer in Mexico which cracked the bell tower ofa church 2 miles away with vibration transmitted through the bedrock between them!!)

· All materials exhibit sound and vibration transmitting properties (sound velocity meter/second). Examples: Aluminum – 6420; steel – 6100; castiron – 5130; hardwood – 3962; solid lead– 1158; cork – 366; rubber – 100. So using steel as a reference, sound and vibration waves are attenuated 15% using cast iron, 35% using hardwood, 81%using solid lead, 94% using cork; and 98% using rubber.

· Steel shot, lead shot and granular sand all reduce the transmission of sound and vibration over their solid versions. This is due to the point to point contact between particles and the “confusion” it causes to the waves going through thestructure.

Handles on woodturning tools are very much a personal choice based on shape, size, texture, and the hard to define “feel”. Based on data, and engineering observationsit would appear that after the shape, size, and texture are determined by the individual turner, lead shot is a great addition to any handle system. Addition of “just weight” to a handle is not supported by data - if the goal is to reduce vibration.

Submitted by an old steelmaker who occasionally misses thesmoke, fire and heat of the steel shop, but really loves the smell of chips in his basement woodshop!

Jerry Wright

[Joe Landon]

Thanks for your data and observations Jerry. I am always amazed that when you look at the facts and strip the bs, you can come up with real solutions.

I am also amazed that the more I research Jerry Glaser, the more I realize how much of a genius and ahead of his time he was. Lead shot in his handles truly is old hat.

[John Hart]

So....if I can just find some cork that weighs as much as lead....then I got everyone beat!!:)

Maybe a hybrid will work. I'll try splicing a Cork-Oak tree with a car battery. I'll get back with you on my progress. ;)

[Quinn McCarthy]

I have a 5/8" Thompson handle with the 5/8" Bill Grumbine blade. I really like the handle on that. I might wrap it someday to make it softer.

I have aslo made some I really like.

Quinn

[John Hart]

This thread has been modified to remove references to advertising.

Thanks,
John