Plywood/Sheetgoods & jointer

[jason mowery]

How do you guys get a crisp, perfectly straight edge on sheetgoods, like plywood to be used for a book case where you'd attach a hardwood faceframe or hardwood strips on the front edge of shelving? I generally use the factory edge of the plywood along the fence, rip to a little wider than I actually need it, and then rotate it, to then cut of the factory edge and sharpen it up. Just wondering if there's a better way to do it. I'd like to use my jointer, but I'm not sure the glues and perpendicular grain layers on the ply wouldn't be really hard on the knives?
Thanks in advance for your help/thoughts/suggestions.

[Bill Huber]

My shop is not big enough for me to use the table saw so I use a good straight edge and a skill saw with a plywood blade. My edges are smooth and ready to use after that.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

Jason - the method you use seems pretty sound. So is using a circ saw but the key to both is a good blade. I don't think running plywood through a joint is a good idea.

[Rod Sheridan]

Jason - the method you use seems pretty sound. So is using a circ saw but the key to both is a good blade. I don't think running plywood through a joint is a good idea.

+1

I agree, although I straight line rip mine, then rip to width.

Jointing sheet goods isn't good for the knives, and you need a big jointer to straighten a piece of wood as long as a bookcase side.

Regards, Rod.

[johnny means]

I sometimes will joint a plywood strip or two. It definitely leaves its mark on my knives. Not a problem with a 20" jointer. I just use the very front or the very back of the jointer, everything else goes in between. Now if you can't spare a couple of inches of blade, its a definite no-no. You'll ruin your knives on the very first pass.

[Will Blick]

This is the reason I bought the Festool track system. Edges up to 10 ft long, dead straight, with an edge as clean (or cleaner) than my PM2000. Of course with any straight reference and the right saw blade and a good circ. saw, you can accomplish the same...

[jason mowery]

Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it. Looks like I'll save the knives on the jointer thanks to you.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I use two methods to clean up plywood edges (besides having a Festool track saw).

Method #1 is the router. Either the table or a straight edge w/a bearing bit.

Method #2 is the table saw. If you google - edge jointing table saw - one of the hits you'll get will be for a jig that buries the blade into a recess from Woodworking tips (dot) com.
I whipped mine together in a few min from some scrap particle board. I need to make another one since I stepped on the one I had and broke it....

[Carl Beckett]

I have used a jointer on a few pieces like this. Didnt notice a severe degradation on the knife sharpness (take light cuts!)

Also I have used a router table and a straight bit - remember to put a fence shim on the output with thickness equal to the depth of cut.

Also I have used a hand router, with a bearing on the bit that rides against a straight edge (that I did true on the jointer). This may be the easiest method (if you dont want to joint directly)

I have also used them right off a good, true cut from the table saw. Not as clean as if jointed, but very good just the same (its about having a sharp blade and being able to guide the sheet in smooth and straight). This is the fastest.

I like the suggestion of jointing with a table saw blade which is offset buried into a fence. Again though, remember to shim the output to the depth of cut. (on the other hand - how would this be different than just taking a light cut reducing the overall width, using the standard fence setup??) ok - I gotta learn more, Im not getting it.

[glenn bradley]

+1 on - tablesaw (with a proper blade) = yes, jointer = no.

[Bobby O'Neal]

I use the table saw method that you describe. Usually works fine since most factory edges are pretty good in my neck of the woods.

[Neil Brooks]

Now if you can't spare a couple of inches of blade, its a definite no-no. You'll ruin your knives on the very first pass.

That's really interesting. I had no idea.

Is it the glue that they use in making plywood, or ... the constantly alternating grain, or ... both, or ... something else ??

[Larry Fox]

I do pretty much exactly what you do, make rip with factory edge against fence and rotate. Kinda a pain but it is quick enough and effective.

[johnny means]

That's really interesting. I had no idea.

Is it the glue that they use in making plywood, or ... the constantly alternating grain, or ... both, or ... something else ??

I definitely see small nicks that coincide with the glue lines. I also see this happen when I joint an epoxied glue up.

[John TenEyck]

I've used my jointer for years and it does dull the blades slightly after awhile, but the edges are far superior to what comes off the table saw, at least IMO. I've even used my jointer with melamine coated particle board, which is far worse than plywood, but even that is not really that bad on the blades. I made a whole kitchen full of cabinets before I had to resharpen the blades, which are just high speed steel. If you are comfortable removing, sharpening, and reinstalling your jointer's blades, I wouldn't hestitate to use it with plywood.

[jason mowery]

Again, thanks for all the responses, I didn't expect that level of input...sounds like maybe I was underestimating my "technique", and maybe it's plenty adequate...on the other hand, I might try the jointer method, with the possible added benefit being getting more practice changing and adjusting knives (or not). Anyway, thanks!

[Mike Schuch]

I thought the "Technique" for the the perfect plywood edge, especially on something like Oak veneer, was to prepare the cut with a piece of masking tape over the length of the cut and then sever the veneer with an Xacto knife before cutting? Never done it this way myself... but something to think about.

Isn't this what a scoring blade on a table saw is meant for too?

I just use a good Freud veneer blade.

[dave toney]

Another way to get a good crisp edge is with a straight edge and a router.
I use a 1" diameter carbide straight bit 1 1/2" long with a top mounted ball bearing for trimming in the field during the installation of cabinets.
Dave

[Jim Becker]

I cut the sheet stock on my slider with the scoring blade engages or with my Festool track saw. Both leave smooth edges front and back on veneered sheet goods. It's difficult to get that on a typical table saw, but you can increase the odds by using a very sharp blade designed for cutting sheet goods with a "new" zero-clearance table insert.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I like the suggestion of jointing with a table saw blade which is offset buried into a fence. Again though, remember to shim the output to the depth of cut. (on the other hand - how would this be different than just taking a light cut reducing the overall width, using the standard fence setup??) ok - I gotta learn more, Im not getting it.
Carl,
A lot of times I just use the fence to clean up about a half blade width on the edge of a piece of plywood, the plywood will shift away from the fence ever so slightly at the end of the cut & touch the back of the blade. That little bit of "snipe" translates into a fair sized gap.
Using the buried blade in the jig eliminates that.
Plus it keeps my hands/arms well out of the way of an exposed blade.

[jonathan eagle]

Karl,
When you add the face frame, you shouldn't see the edge.
Obviously one can't have huge chip outs, just wondering what the concern is here. (I do it like everyone else. Straight edge, special blade on the circular saw.)
Jonathan

[Bruce Kohl]

I never ever run plywood through my jointer - it will dull and nick the knives in nothing flat. I have a twelve inch jointer and unlike Johnny I still can't spare a couple of inches of the blade. I use a good plywood blade on the table saw or hand circular saw, or a spiral bit in the router. Both give good clean edges.