Powermatic 45 restoration project

[Doug Morgan]

198428
I have recently begun the restoration of my Powermatic 45 variable speed lathe. I have been at it now for 1 week and I think I have made some significant progress.

198434
198430
At the end of the 3rd day I had dissassembled all of the variable drive and had started removing all the paint. Check the stand and you will see 3 layers of paint. The first being the "pea" green, then there was a darker green on top of that and last a black brush paint on top.
198433
Everything will get a new coat of paint after I clean it and check for proper operation.

198431
Here you can see what the stand started out like and where it is right now. The plate shows all three layers of paint and brush strokes in the black. I have been using Chemical stripper, wire wheels on both drills and grinders, orbital sanders, palm sanders, belt sanders, sand blaster, and some other items that my father in law gave me.

198428

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/misc/pencil.pnghttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/misc/pencil.png

[Doug Morgan]

As I have continued through today I feel that major progress has been achieved. MOST of the paint on the outside of the stand has been removed.
198440

I continued to remove the paint from the head.
198438

and the bed.
198439

There are some small items missing from the unit like the original wrench or the indexing plunger. Hopefully I will find them to add to the unit.

[Sam Layton]

Great job Doug. Keep posting photo's as you go along. What color are you going to paint it, and what kind of paint are you going to use?

Sam

[Carroll Courtney]

Doug,looks like your off to a very good start.Taking the time to do it right is worth the investment and will reward you every time you use it for the rest of your life.The parts that are MIA,I have seen on ebay afew times so keep an eye out and your lathe will be complete.Very nice lathe----Carroll

[Paul Girouard]

You might call a local powder coater , it's pretty reasonable priced out here, and would give you a better coating than rattle can paint , well IF that's how you plan on painting it.

[Doug Morgan]

You might call a local powder coater , it's pretty reasonable priced out here, and would give you a better coating than rattle can paint , well IF that's how you plan on painting it.

Not sure if I can get the original paint color but I will look into that. I have a HVLP paint gun and was looking at the professional sites of Sherwin Williams. I have the formula that was used to create paint for another project by another woodworker. I'll just have to check it out. Thank you...

[Doug Morgan]

Doug,looks like your off to a very good start.Taking the time to do it right is worth the investment and will reward you every time you use it for the rest of your life.The parts that are MIA,I have seen on ebay afew times so keep an eye out and your lathe will be complete.Very nice lathe----Carroll

I have found through exhaustive searches on the internet, all the bearings for the unit. It will run about $176.00 for them but it will be good for another 50 years. This unit (as far as I can research) was built in 1964. I have downloaded manuals from another site where it shows different part numbers associated with different years. I do know that one of my parts does match another unit made in 1964. This part cannot be easily replaced without major disassembly so I'm not sure about the age. On another site it lists my serial number as a 1964. The part is on the upper sheave and is called as a cap spring (part number 45-57). In some of the manuals it calls out the sheave as an assembly and cannot be broke down any further. I have been searching everyday for the missing parts on Ebay with no luck. One of the gentlemen had just parted out a bunch of spare parts on Ebay months before I came to know him. Several of these were the parts I needed. Oh well.

[Doug Morgan]

Great job Doug. Keep posting photo's as you go along. What color are you going to paint it, and what kind of paint are you going to use?

Sam
Thank you Sam
I intend to restore it to the original paint (or at least as close as I can) which was the "pea green" color. I intend to shoot self etching primer because I have stripped it down to bear metal. But I'm always open to new and better suggestions. As I told Paul I will check out powder coat for a finish and what is required to prep the metal before finishing.

[Carroll Courtney]

Doug,this is the formula that I use to restore some of my PM machines.Its not the metallic,but its close enought for me. Here is the pea green color,but make sure this is the right shade that you want---Carroll

[Doug Morgan]

Here is a site that is my inspiration for my work. The gentleman has been a source of information to me. Darnell is from Canada and has arguably the best unit I have ever seen. Follow this link to see where I hope to be some day! Differences we share are that he has a 3 phase motor 3/4 HP and I have a 1 phase motor 3/4 HP. His is reversible and mine is not. On his upper sheave picture you will see his spring cap as a flat cap to hold the spring. Mine is a cup. I started to polish the spring but again I am not a metal worker in any stretch of the imagination. If there is any information as to how to polish these to get a better luster on the metal, I'm all eyes and ears...

http://thewayiwood.blogspot.com/2011/02/notes-on-restoration-of-1964-powermatic.html

198508

Here is my serial number plate. Its in poor shape but I have a source to which she will take this plate, scan it into a computer. Retouch it and then silk print it onto another plate. Then I will redo the letter stamps of the serial number and model. According to the information I have come across, the 4-4539 serial number, the first 4 is the year in which it was made.
198509

[Carl Beckett]

Hi Doug,

In the past when I have painted machinery, I used a two part epoxy based paint (made specifically for machinery). Its much more durable than automotive paint

[Doug Morgan]

Doug,this is the formula that I use to restore some of my PM machines.Its not the metallic,but its close enought for me. Here is the pea green color,but make sure this is the right shade that you want---Carroll

Thank you for that information. This is what I'm always looking for.

[Doug Morgan]

Hi Doug,

In the past when I have painted machinery, I used a two part epoxy based paint (made specifically for machinery). Its much more durable than automotive paint

Good point. Thank you for your help. I'm no painter by profession so any input is a great source of information.

[Doug Morgan]

With the rain I was unable to get much finished tonight. I will try again tomorrow.
198804

On another note I was working on a part to make from 3/8 stock rod. It took an imediate dislike to me and tried to break my finger after coming out of the drill press chuck. Silly me

[Carroll Courtney]

Keep the pics coming,that is going to be a fantastic lathe---Carroll

[Doug Morgan]

I am not a weatherman so I could not predict the weather today. I took a safe route and cleaned and polished a bunch of parts.

I took the parts that I wanted to polish and really went to town on them.
198874198875
Later I continued to polish more parts as seen in the next picture, these along with cleaning a bunch.
198876

These parts are not finished by any means of the imagination, but any step forward is a good step. I did love the shaft for the variable speed being polished. It turned out sweet!

198887
Check out the rusted pulley in the above pic then the look at the pic above that for that same pulley!

I also took the time to clean the holes in the variable speed mounting bracket.
198877

You can see that the holes were not clean in the picture. I took a rat tail file and cleaned out every hole.
198885
198886

[Tony Zaffuto]

I got a Powermatic 45 at a school auction about 6 or 7 years ago. Was 3 phase, and I simply replaced the motor.

Mine is also missing the indexing plunger, but, I don't miss it. Mine is also missing the Powermatic name plate/badge.

When you speak of missing the wrench, what wrench do you mean?

[Doug Morgan]

I got a Powermatic 45 at a school auction about 6 or 7 years ago. Was 3 phase, and I simply replaced the motor.

Mine is also missing the indexing plunger, but, I don't miss it. Mine is also missing the Powermatic name plate/badge.

When you speak of missing the wrench, what wrench do you mean?

There are 2 wrenches that came stock with the lathe. One was the wrench to tighten the tailstock, and the other was the faceplate wrench. Both of these are difficult to find. The indexing plunger for the powermatic 45 is $62.00 as an assembly.

[Tony Zaffuto]

$62.00 for the plunger assembly!!!!! I only paid $35.00 for my lathe!

[Baxter Smith]

Looking good! Good luck with it.

[Doug Morgan]

I got a Powermatic 45 at a school auction about 6 or 7 years ago. Was 3 phase, and I simply replaced the motor.

Mine is also missing the Powermatic name plate/badge.

Do you still have the 3 phase motor? Just curious.
Also is yours a Variable Speed or step pulleys?
As for the name plate you can take a photo to a someone who does silk screening and have them silk screen an image onto tin or aluminum and with a little work have a new plate. I contacted a friend of mine who is going to do that for me. I cleaned up an scan of the original plate and it will be a actual size (since I scanned it in and verified it to be a 1:1 ratio of the original). The model number is easy but the serial number is the difficult one. As I understand it the serial number is in a X-YYYY, X being the year it was made and Y being the number of the lathe. Mine has a 4 for the year (1964) and the serial number.
198966

[Doug Morgan]

A fellow woodworker sent me this last night. It put in perspective the work I am doing and a Smile on my face :D.
198967
These prices would be a representation of the Powermatic 45 in 1997. He told me to multiply these by 1.2% to get 2011 prices. LOL

[Doug Morgan]

$62.00 for the plunger assembly!!!!! I only paid $35.00 for my lathe!
Yep thats what they are asking for a unit that is no longer in production. My father-in-law is rebuilding a 1936 Ford 3 window coupe and talk about prices on NOS!

[Doug Morgan]

Looking good! Good luck with it.

Thank you Baxter, I will continue to post pictures of my unit as things progress. Today I hope to finish stripping the the paint from the bed and have that ready for priming.

[Julian Tracy]

Here's mine:
http://juliantracy.com/Powermatic%2045%20lathe/

I understand the gold isn't for everyone, but I'm not much for puke green either... The gold is obviously a little shinier than I prefer, but it was the closest I could find on the rack to Powermatic yellow and I did a test on the door first and that didn't look so darn "shiny". Than I painted the whole darn thing and it was like "Ooops! - that's kindof loud!" But what the heck - it's painted and it's in use and it sure looks like a gem in my dreary (not really) basement workshop.

Mine was already converted to a simple step pulley system with 4 steps. I added a small pulley to motor shaft to get me down to I think 2-300 rpm as opposed to the 4-500 minimum with the smallest of the 4-step pulley steps.

Solid as a rock and had new bearings when I bought it. I see no use in powdercoating a large ww lathe - it's not like the paint's gonna take a beating, but then I just like to get my tool restorations done in a day or two and start using them. Have too many projects to make them month long endeavors.

Good luck on yours.

Julian

[Doug Morgan]

Here's mine:
http://juliantracy.com/Powermatic%2045%20lathe/

I understand the gold isn't for everyone, but I'm not much for puke green either... The gold is obviously a little shinier than I prefer, but it was the closest I could find on the rack to Powermatic yellow and I did a test on the door first and that didn't look so darn "shiny". Than I painted the whole darn thing and it was like "Ooops! - that's kindof loud!" But what the heck - it's painted and it's in use and it sure looks like a gem in my dreary (not really) basement workshop.

Mine was already converted to a simple step pulley system with 4 steps. I added a small pulley to motor shaft to get me down to I think 2-300 rpm as opposed to the 4-500 minimum with the smallest of the 4-step pulley steps.

Solid as a rock and had new bearings when I bought it. I see no use in powdercoating a large ww lathe - it's not like the paint's gonna take a beating, but then I just like to get my tool restorations done in a day or two and start using them. Have too many projects to make them month long endeavors.

Good luck on yours.

Julian

As long as you like the color nothing else matters. I want to restore it to original so I am painting it the original green. I love your tool holder. It really dresses up that area of the lathe and is quite functional.

[Don Jarvie]

Tip for cleaning holes. Buy a couple of wire brushes used to clean copper pipes before soldering them. Take one and cut off the handle and chuck it in your drill. Cleans the rust out very quickly. Use the other one by hand.

[Doug Morgan]

Tip for cleaning holes. Buy a couple of wire brushes used to clean copper pipes before soldering them. Take one and cut off the handle and chuck it in your drill. Cleans the rust out very quickly. Use the other one by hand.

Your timing is fantastic. I am quickly coming to that phase of the project. Thank you....

[Doug Morgan]

Getting discouraged on the progress here. Its taking more time than I really care to, for the removal of paint on the underside of the bed. There are more corners than the entire rest of the machine. Sandblasting just comes back and hits me in the face due to the inside corners. Chemical stripper has taken a lot of time and effort with small advances. :(
199021
Wire brushes on drills cannot get into corners. Wire hand brushes take a very long time and cramps the hand and if there is chemical stripper then you end up getting burned if not careful. Any suggestions?

[Julian Tracy]

Looks clean enough to me. No one will EVER look into those corners - cut yourself a break. Unless you like tedious useless work...

JT

[Doug Morgan]

Looks clean enough to me. No one will EVER look into those corners - cut yourself a break. Unless you like tedious useless work...

JT

If I'm using self etching primer, the metal has to be bare. I know that there is epoxy primer but that ruins a paint gun. I don't have any cheapo spray guns. Maybe I'll have to break down and get a harbor freight el cheapo.

[Doug Morgan]

My hardware store has opened a checkout lane for every time I enter the store!!! LOL

[Doug Morgan]

Darn rain. I know its good for the environment but Noah was prepared. I took a lot more of the green paint off. I was able to disassemble the tail stock and polish the parts. The wheel appeared to be either aluminum or painted plastic when I just glanced at it. I didn't really pay close attention to it. It was painted with some cheap silver paint and when cleaned it was cast like the rest of the machine, much to my delight. I don't know how to get the spinner knob off of the wheel so I have to do some reading (unless some has any ideas). There are no threads in the hole that I can see. Is it pressed on? I sand blasted more of the bed and its beginning to look better. I need a larger air compressor. Maybe I'll call my friend that has a large compressor and truck that I could take these parts out to his place and do it. Post pictures later...

[Carl Beckett]

Hi Doug,

Im appreciating the progress and posts. Sounds like you will be spraying this? Am wondering if a combo of roller and brush would yield the same finish, and free up your choices of primers/paint types? (a roller leaves a pretty good finish for equipment, since the underlying metal is usually not glass smooth anyway. Heck, I saw a car once that the guy painted with a roller and I had to admit it didnt look all that bad......... )

[Julian Tracy]

I've done quite a few machines lately and I've been using the Rustoleum 2x spray paint. It is, without a doubt, the very BEST spray paint in terms of coverage I've ever used. And unlike the old style Rustoleum, this 2x version is quick drying - can be handled in about 15 minutes.

JT

[Doug Morgan]

I have had a really long day today. Most of it was working on the lathe but there were times I was cleaning the garage also. I got most of the paint off the bed of the lathe as seen here. You might notice that there was some surface rust but as of now it is all gone.
199202

I spent some time cleaning other parts and now have most of the Reeves Drive cleaned.
199200

I also was able to get the knob off the tail stock wheel. Then I put a 3/8" rod through the wheel and bolted it on both sides. Then I connected it to the drill press and lowered the speed down to where I felt it was safe to sand the wheel. After that I inverted the wheel on the 3/8" rod and sanded the underside. When I was happy going through 200, 320, and 600 grit sand paper I move to the polishing station. I removed the rod and began to polish it like there was no tomorrow.
199204

Then I moved back to the stand and went inside to clean. You will note that the inside of the door is not yet stripped. That would be because I want to take the door with me when I select the paint for the lathe.
199203

Another view of the stand and lathe.
199205

Another angle of the stand.
199207

And a couple more pics. This one with a flash.
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And a mock up of the lathe.
199206

[Doug Morgan]

Hi Doug,

Im appreciating the progress and posts. Sounds like you will be spraying this? Am wondering if a combo of roller and brush would yield the same finish, and free up your choices of primers/paint types? (a roller leaves a pretty good finish for equipment, since the underlying metal is usually not glass smooth anyway. Heck, I saw a car once that the guy painted with a roller and I had to admit it didnt look all that bad......... )

Thank you Carl. I have not made the final selection for the paint yet. The only thing I'm sold on is that it will be green like the original. I have taken careful steps to make this as good as I can. I really want this to be as good as the inspiration that I got from another PM 45 restoration project.

[Doug Morgan]

I've done quite a few machines lately and I've been using the Rustoleum 2x spray paint. It is, without a doubt, the very BEST spray paint in terms of coverage I've ever used. And unlike the old style Rustoleum, this 2x version is quick drying - can be handled in about 15 minutes.

JT

Thank you Julian. I will be checking it out.

[Doug Morgan]

Tip for cleaning holes. Buy a couple of wire brushes used to clean copper pipes before soldering them. Take one and cut off the handle and chuck it in your drill. Cleans the rust out very quickly. Use the other one by hand.

That really worked well. I used the brush from a plumbing tool to clean the holes and worked great.

[Tom Ewell]

Are you taking any steps to protect the bare metal from moisture until you're ready to paint?
Might need to pickup some self etching primer and shoot a coat on, it'll give you some extra time considering your rain "delays".

[Doug Morgan]

Are you taking any steps to protect the bare metal from moisture until you're ready to paint?
Might need to pickup some self etching primer and shoot a coat on, it'll give you some extra time considering your rain "delays".

Yes Tom I have a fine layer of oil on it until I have the primer in my hands and ready to shoot.

[Sam Layton]

I am impressed, you are doing an outstanding job Doug. I really enjoy following you progress. Thanks for posting all the photo's.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

I am impressed, you are doing an outstanding job Doug. I really enjoy following you progress. Thanks for posting all the photo's.

Sam

Thank you Sam. I love keeping everyone up to date. My two hobbies are woodworking and computers.

[Paulo Marin]

Doug,
I appreciate your post. I recently acquired a Yates American and was planning to restore it. Now I can see what is ahead of me.:eek:

Can I consult with you? :rolleyes:

Superb job

-paulo Marin
glaser hitec engineering

[Doug Morgan]

Doug,
I appreciate your post. I recently acquired a Yates American and was planning to restore it. Now I can see what is ahead of me.:eek:

Can I consult with you? :rolleyes:

Superb job

-paulo Marin
glaser hitec engineering

Paulo,
Yes I'll be glad to pass on anything I can to assist you. Biggest tip, PICTURES, PICTURES and more PICTURES. Especially before pictures. If you don't, you may forget how to put it back together. Second get the manuals. Here is a site that has 111 different Yates American manuals for down loading.

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=782&tab=3

You can filter out the type of machine you have rather its a lathe, saw, planers, joiners, and whatever.

Paint removal is a mess of a job. Chemical stripper does a great job (but get rubber gloves and use steel wool for cleaning and there is a stripper wash you want to use NOT water, you create rust). Wire wheels and hand brushes get into tight areas. Media Blaster will get into corners where you can't get access (but don't spend a whole lot on this $$$ and get the one that has gravity feed not siphon. Siphon uses too much air and unless you have a large compressor, you will end up waiting on the compressor to catch up). Tips from other woodworkers came in like using the brush from a plumbing tool to get into tight areas worked. Wire brush on your grinder is a must. If youre going to polish anything get different grits of sand paper to get the best prep for the metal. Start at 180 grit and advance up to 600 grit. I found that Porter Cable has some great polish for the finish but there are others I'm sure some of these guys can recommend the best. Ask these guys and the guys on the vintage machinery site. They have more tricks up their sleeves than one could count.

Thank you.
D

[Doug Morgan]

Well I'm back home and picking up where I left off. I still have green to get rid of on different small pieces and some inside of the cabinet of the stand. Am I crazy to get all this green off just to paint it green again?
I am finding some prices on the bearings. I have sent emails out and gotten back a wide difference of prices. One bearing went from $15 to $65 in range. All of the bearings I have requested are name brands. I really don't want to replace a bearing after all the work I am putting in this lathe. The bottom line is $90 for all the bearings plus tax and shipping. My wife is buying me the wrench and indexing plunger for my birthday this month so that will aid the restoration. Now it time to find the primer and paint for the lathe so I can begin to start the reverse process.

[Peter Scoma]

Hey Doug, may be a little late but if you want to remove the paint from difficult areas get yourself a dremel tool and 2 "bits." the cup wire brush and 3m pad. I use them all the time when restoring planes to remove old stubborn japanning that does not respond to chemical strippers.

PJS

[Doug Morgan]

Hey Doug, may be a little late but if you want to remove the paint from difficult areas get yourself a dremel tool and 2 "bits." the cup wire brush and 3m pad. I use them all the time when restoring planes to remove old stubborn japanning that does not respond to chemical strippers.

PJS

1. I have a Dremel Tool even with the extension cable
2. I'm still removing paint so Ill give it a try. Thank you.

Nothing is ever too late at this end. I may need it for another project!

[Doug Morgan]

Well I worked on several different pieces parts today as well as repairing 2 computers. Very busy but made lots of progress. I started on the head stock housing. I sand blasted till I was exhausted trying to get rid of as much paint as I could.
200058
Then it was the cover that went with the housing.
200057
Then I went to the lower sheave mount and it turned out good.
200055
But I ran out of my material used to blast the paint off so there is a small amount of green left.
200056

Please let me know what you think. A suggestion never goes unappreciated....

[Doug Morgan]

I was able to disassemble the tool rest tonight. To do this I had to create a tool that could drive out the bass bushing and remove the shaft. I ran into a problem when I tried to remove the shaft. It had flared near the brass bushing so I had to file a little off to get the shaft out the hole in the housing.
200152

[Dave Lehnert]

What kind of blast media did you use and did you use a siphon feed or pressure pot?

[Doug Morgan]

What kind of blast media did you use and did you use a siphon feed or pressure pot?
It was a siphon feed (if I had to do it again it would be a pressure pot or a gravity feed). As for the medial I used black blast from Menards. It is hard and sharp to clean away paint. If you enlarge the shot on the tail stock you can see the black media blast that I used.

[Doug Morgan]

Got back to the sand blaster and really took it to task. I cleaned the banjo up as best I could. Then back home to the ole grinder and put the polishing wheel on it to clean it up. :cool:

200300

Its sad to think that most of what I just finished will not be seen by the average person.:( Compare this to the image above. Same unit just cleaned and polished.
200301

[Doug Morgan]

Here is the tail stock all cleaned up.
200306

It makes me feel good that I am making great progress.
200307

Look ma no green paint here!

200305

Or here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek:

[Doug Morgan]

So far this project started Jun 11 and its July 3 now. Not to bad, but still a ways to go.

[Doug Morgan]

Well today is the day that the disassembly stops. I feel I am at a point that now its time for paint.
I began the day working on the motor, removing the mount, removing end caps and geting the motor down to basics.
200405

200401

I stripped the rest of the stand (you'll see later) and went to work on polishing parts. Here you see the tool rest clamp behind a part that had not been stripped, cleaned or polished. The clamp started out like that part before I got ahold of it.
200404

Then it was the tool rest itself that got the polish wheel. The edge of the tool rest is polished to a nice luster.
200399

Another view from the left side of the tool rest.
200403

The tail stock got some work as well. I already had the wheel polished as well as the adjusting quill nut but I also polished the tail stock lock nut.
200400

Then there were additional parts that were cleaned and polished.
200402

Hope you guys like. Please comments are welcome.:D

[Doug Morgan]

I just couldn't resist the temptation to stage the lathe at this point.

200408

200409

200406

200407

[Sam Layton]

Hi Doug,

Your lathe is looking good. You did a first class job in removing the old paint and polishing selected parts. Now the fun starts when you can get started painting. I am interested in what type of primer and paint you are going to use. I have two Dewalt radial arm saws, and a Davis and Wells bandsaw I am going to restore. I have a few other items to finish up first. Great job, thanks for all of the photo's.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Hi Doug,

Your lathe is looking good. You did a first class job in removing the old paint and polishing selected parts. Now the fun starts when you can get started painting. I am interested in what type of primer and paint you are going to use. I have two Dewalt radial arm saws, and a Davis and Wells bandsaw I am going to restore. I have a few other items to finish up first. Great job, thanks for all of the photo's.

Sam
Thanks Sam. I have had a lot of enjoyment out of restoring this lathe. I want it to be the best I can do, no short cuts, no rigging to make it work, just plain simple hard work.

[Doug Morgan]

Not a good way to start your search for paint. I went on the internet to look for a GOOD paint for the lathe. I knew that the primer would be expensive either self etching or epoxy. The guy at the automotive store told me they can only get it in gallons (NOT TRUE). He may not want to order others but they come in pints, half gallons, and gallons (I saw the supplier he was quoting and went to their site on the net). Then he got into the paint. Here's where he wanted to take me for a ride. We needed the paint (only sold in gallons), reducer (only sold in gallons) and hardener (guess what...only sold in gallons). Now I'm not a professional painter or body worker but I'm not a fool either. After the final tally he wanted $370 "will that be cash or credit card?". I just turned and walked out the door.

[Doug Morgan]

Hi Doug,

Your lathe is looking good. You did a first class job in removing the old paint and polishing selected parts. Now the fun starts when you can get started painting. I am interested in what type of primer and paint you are going to use. I have two Dewalt radial arm saws, and a Davis and Wells bandsaw I am going to restore. I have a few other items to finish up first. Great job, thanks for all of the photo's.

Sam

Following up with you Sam. I talked to a autobody expert that lives close by. He restores, builds hot rods, and takes rusted out trash and creates some of the best autos I've seen. He took a car that was completely rusted out floorboards, fenders, and the body should have been tossed in a compactor, and created a beautiful 36 Ford Cabriolet (not a car that can be entered in a restoration competition but will turn heads when he goes down the road). Anyway you get the idea, he gave me a list that should help me come up with a great paint job. Of course he could shoot it but then $$$.

[Doug Morgan]

I went to the Automotive Paint dealer.
This is still more than I really wanted to pay out (still sticker shock). I did however get the formula for the paint. This is the PPG line of paint and its a base coat, clear coat type of paint. Its not the top of the line but a less cost inhibited.
http://www.owwm.org/download/file.php?id=9720&t=1 (http://www.owwm.org/download/file.php?id=9720&mode=view)


For those who do not know (like me) what they are getting into here's just a small sample of what to expect after removing the paint.

$63.38 2 qts Paint
$25.17 reducer
$43.14 2 qts Clear coat
$49.55 hardener
$14.33 1 gal lac Thinner
$19.08 Primer
$12.64 Primer mix
$16.05 Painting mask
$ 3.35 Masking tape

$16.07 Tax
$263.36 Total

I think I'm done. The bearings cost me $104.50 and I don't even have the belts or quill handle. I've canceled the parts my wife was ordering for my birthday. This has just gotten to far out of hand. There may be a lathe up for sale soon.:(

[Jim Laumann]

Doug

As an outsider coming in to this thread very late (a interesting read and great work btw) - sell it? You have $400 or so in to it at this point. For a lathe of that size, and vintage? You couldn't pick up a Jet or Delta midi for that....

Maybe you need to stop the restore process for a couple months - and given yourself (and the checkbook) a breather - but sell it?

Jim

[Don Jarvie]

I've been following your rebuild on both sites and am enjoying it. I'm in the process of redoing a 74 Powermatic 66. So far I have stripped down all of the parts to bare metal and am priming now.

As for paint. I'm using Rustoleum Auto Body primer and wet sanding with 320 after 2 coats then putting on another and sanding again. It makes the metal feel like glass. I don't have a spray setup and want to go off the reservation a bit on the color so I am using a dark green metallic on the saw body and using black for the Biese rails and the green for the fence. I will probably paint the strips in black.

I bought my paint at Sherwin Williams (Automotive Branch). The regular SW paint stores don't sell auto paint. They can put the colors you want in spray cans for you. I spend 100 bucks for 2 green, 2 black, one clearcoat and one adhesion (put on before the paint). They can add the clearcoat to the cans if you use them within 2 hours or so. If you bring the recipe they can match it.

Only thing to buy at the paint store is the paint and clearcoat/topcoat/hardner. Use Rustoleum primer and buy tape etc at the hardware store. As was mentioned above you only need a quart of paint and clearcoat at the most. If you have a spray set up you will thin the paint a bit so a quart will probably be too much. Your going to be surprised how far the paint goes. If you need more then go buy more.

The lathe will rock once its done. Keep in mind these (Powermatic) tools are lifetime tools which means this lathe will handle all of your needs so you won't need to upgrade anytime soon. When all said and done it will cost me around 800 total to finish my saw but comparing that to a new PM 2000 at 3500 its short money and my 66 will be just as good as the new PM 2000.

Don

[Doug Morgan]

200610
Considering all the costs of parts out there ($55.00 for this tail stock quill clamp) I am asking a friend who has a metal lathe to create this piece (he once told me that if I ever need something made like this call him, I fixed a 1936 fan motor for his 1936 Ford V8). Its a 5/8" stock steel bar. The handle will be 5/8" diameter about 2" long cut down to 3/8" diameter for 1" long then back up to 5/8" for the collar then back down to 3/8" for the screw. The threads will be 24 TPI to thread into the tail stock. Then I will bend the 3/8" shaft that is 1" long 90 degrees to create the handle. We will need to heat treat the 3/8" shaft for strength. All in all $6.00... I drew this using Sketchup CAD. This would be a great reproduction of the original. A little file shaping, sanding, polish and there it is.

[John M Bailey]

I think I'm done. The bearings cost me $104.50 and I don't even have the belts or quill handle. I've canceled the parts my wife was ordering for my birthday. This has just gotten to far out of hand. There may be a lathe up for sale soon.:(


I sure hope you do not give up this project! I have been following this thread with interest from the begining, and I have enjoyed reading about your restoration.
If I were restoring this lathe, I would not use a base/clear paint. This paint is so expensive because it has to be able to withstand being outside in the sunlight and the elements, rain, dirt, bird droppings, ect. Your lathe will be stored inside a shop, and the worst it will have to endure will be wood chippings and dust. If an automotive paint is a must then use a single stage.

[Sam Layton]

Hi Doug,

The prices do not surprise me, especially auto paint. I am in the process of painting the inside of my house, and I can not believe the price of good house paint... I always figure that you get what you pay for. Thanks again for posting.

Sam

[Matt Meiser]

Your's looks to be the "pea green" color like a couple machines I restored. You can buy a gallon of Sherwin Williams industrial enamel tinted that color for about $50 IIRC. Here's a shot of the formula they came up with by sticking my jointer's guard in their computer and reading the unfaded factory paint on the bottom. I primed with Rust-O-Leum clean metal primer from the hardware store. This finish is very similar to the original and its very durable, but also easy to touch up.

200769200770

[Doug Morgan]

More bad news. I found that the threads in the tail stock quill clamp are damaged (stripped out down to 1/16" of the bottom of the hole). The previous owner stripped out the tail stock housing and used the 3/8" 24 TPI bolt to reach further down into the hole to get a grip. I ran a tap down the hole 3/8 16 and it went in correctly but with the hole and threads are damaged. Tomorrow I will go out and get a helicoil repair kit. It takes a 25/64" drill bit to open the hole. Then an oversized tap to cut new threads for the helicoil. Then, using the tool with the kit, you run a new helicoil down into the new hole leaving new threads for a 3/16" 16 TPI. Afterwards you take a punch and knock out the end of the helicoil to finish the job. The kit runs about $25. geez I cant get a break!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=RFYa6sjhh_E

[Dave Lehnert]

I have friends who restore cars. They too have quit using auto paint because of the high cost. Their thing now is doing paint jobs with a paint called Oneshot. Sign makers use this paint.

[Doug Morgan]

Just an update on the drawing I did for the quill clamp handle. The threads will be 3/8" 16 and will be perfect fit for the repair.
200972

[Doug Morgan]

I have friends who restore cars. They too have quit using auto paint because of the high cost. Their thing now is doing paint jobs with a paint called Oneshot. Sign makers use this paint.

I'll check that out Thank you very much.

[Tom Ewell]

You can also check out auto paints at eBay, might find something "close enough".

[Dave Lehnert]

I'll check that out Thank you very much.
It is a different look for sure. I go to a car show each Friday. I will find some cars painted with Oneshot and snap a few pic's.

http://www.1shot.com/home.html

[Doug Morgan]

My tail stock is repaired. Easy fix and not expensive compared to replacing tail stock (if you could find it).

I started out with the kit. It came with coils, inserting tool, and tap. I had the drill bit and tool for the tap.
201002

I checked my drill press to be true. I know it should be ready every time I use it but the one time I don't check it well you know the rest.
201006

Drilled out the hole. Sorry my photography skills are not the best but you get the "picture" LOL humor.
201000

Tapped the hole with the over sized tap. Do yourself a favor and use lubricant when using the tap. It will last longer.
201001

Inserted helicoil with tool supplied. You can see the tang at the bottom of the threads.
201003

Punch out tang at bottom of threads. You can see the tang on the tail stock. Very easy with a punch.
201005

Used 3/8 inch rod 16 TPI
201004

You can purchase different lengths of coils, from shorter to longer. These just happen to be the length I needed.
Finished...........

[Doug Morgan]

I updated my cad for the quill clamp handle. The pic now shows before and after bending the handle.
201008

[Doug Morgan]

I heard it said "Necessity is the mother of invention"

Well it was in this case. I wanted to replace the quill clamp handle with an original but could not find one. So the next thing is to see if you can make one.
I used my vertical metal lathe (otherwise known as a drill press) and came up with this. The handle still has to be heated to bend but that should be simple.
You see the collar there, its 3/8".
201110

Checking the lower shaft of the handle you see the collar fits fine. I checked the size with a caliper as I ground off the metal. Then I sanded it and sanded it
and sanded it LOL you get the picture. Over to the buffer and see how it looks. It matches my drawing other than the size. I made this using 1/2 stock.
The 5/8 stock well lets just say I would still be in the garage with my files. I will cut threads tomorrow after I bent it.
201109

For safety sake I took and drilled a 1/2 hole in a piece of hard wood and clamped it to my drill press table. That way it was held at both top and bottom to prevent
injury. I used files of different grades to take off the metal slowly. It got hot let me tell you but letting the metal cool off gave me and the handle a break.

[Doug Morgan]

Got up early this morning. I wanted to get this quill clamp put to rest so to speak. I thought about this most of the night formulating a plan for the bending and cutting of threads on the handle. I came up with cutting the threads first, then screwing it into the tail stock, mounting the tail stock in my vise, heating the shaft and using a box end wrench bending it to the desired angle. Doing it this way I could tighten the handle down and bend it to where it would tighten and be near where I wanted the handle to be.

201161

201160

My plan worked out great I think.

[Sam Layton]

Doug,

Your handle turned out great. Do you have any photo's during your manufacturing process?

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

No but I can recreate them so you can see how I arrived at the finished product. I'll do that for you Sam. Give me a couple of minutes....

[Doug Morgan]

Ok heres how I arrived at the handle.

I started off with 1/2 stock (can be purchased at Lowes, Menards, or any hardware store). Pay attention to the grade of steel. Some are not suited for this meaning too soft. At Menards there is a chart that you look at. Each rod is color coded for strength. Size wise 1/2 was the largest I could go. Any larger and my chuck would not be able to hold the stock.
201179

Next I made a "tail stock" to keep the rod straight. That was relatively easy using hardwood and drilling a 1/2 hole. This will get hot and burn to a degree but I didn't run my drill press at a high rate of speed.
201171

I needed to clamp down the tail stock so I used a wood clamp to attach it to my table. NOTE: I turned my table 90 degrees to the side to allow the stock to go through the wood.

201175

I used several different files to cut down the stock to get it to the shape that I created in my cad drawing. Do yourself a favor. If you ever attempt this, START at the TOP (handle in this case) and work your way down. If not you run the risk when you move the table to have the wood tail stock with a 1/2 hole in an area that is 3/8" and could bend the handle.

201173

Remember the drawing I did earlier? That was my guide for what I was trying to create.

After moving the drill press table up and down to support my files while I cut the 1/2 stock, I watched how much I was cutting off using my calipers. Here I'm just showing the calipers but I measured all this after stopping the DP. I never removed the 1/2 stock from the DP until I was finished.

201177

Once I got the desired shape and size of the handle, I sanded and sanded and sanded the handle to clean it up for polishing.

201174

201178

[Doug Morgan]

Here is what I came up with for the handle.

201182

201180

Threading the handle had to be done at this time.

201181

This way I could screw it into the tail stock and once it was tight I would bend it so it would be in alignment with the tail stock. Heat it to get the metal soft enough to bend and using the box end of a 9/16" wrench I bent the handle over.

201183

Heating caused some discoloration so for the last time I went back to the grinder and polished up the handle.

201184

And that was it.

[Sam Layton]

Doug,

Thank you very much for going to all of the trouble to show me how you milled you handle. I am impressed. I would have never though of doing it that way. I don't know what I would have done... I am going to remember your milling process for future use. I would like to try it.

Thank you again, the handle turned out great. You are going to have a great lathe when you finish. I was just thinking of using my wood lathe like you used your drill press. Just occurred to me that you are building a second milling machine, wood lathe... I am excited to see your lathe finished.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Doug,

Thank you very much for going to all of the trouble to show me how you milled you handle. I am impressed. I would have never though of doing it that way. I don't know what I would have done... I am going to remember your milling process for future use. I would like to try it.

Thank you again, the handle turned out great. You are going to have a great lathe when you finish. I was just thinking of using my wood lathe like you used your drill press. Just occurred to me that you are building a second milling machine, wood lathe... I am excited to see your lathe finished.

Sam

You are very welcome Sam. Anything for a fellow woodworker...

[Doug Morgan]

Just a quick note for people looking for bearings.
I had the fortune to locate a site on the internet called Locate Ball Bearings.
http://www.locateballbearings.com/

I sent them a list of bearings needed for my lathe. They sent me back a quote and I took a chance and ordered the bearings not knowing if these were knock offs or other brands that did not have the quality in them. I was pleasantly surprised today when I got my order. Every bearing was a name brand that I knew.

The MRC 88008 bearing at some sites for $57............$14.50
The two SKF 6205-2RSH was bringing in $10ea..........$19.00 for both
The FAG 6006 SRSR was $19...................................$16.50
The FAFNIR W206PP was running $48.......................$23.00
The NTN R16ZZ was $33.........................................$14.50

So I was able to save a large amount on the bearings. I'm still searching for a good price on the two belts but I'll update you when I find them.

UPDATE:
Spent a long time on the net to see where I could find and original Goodyear 1422V420 variable speed belt.

http://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-Engineered-Products-1422V480-Variable/dp/B00006U144/ref=sr_1_17?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1310255872&sr=1-17

Price $38.62 with free shipping. Sounds really good to me. Part ordered.

[Mike Cruz]

Doug, you are doing an amazing job. I've been a bad SMC member and really haven't been on the forum much. Just saw this thread. Very well documented. Wish I had documented mine PM90 restoration so well... Have to admit that I didn't read the entire thread. Gotta get to bed... While a PM90 and PM45 have a bunch of different components, if there is anything I can help with, feel free to email or PM me. If your tailstock doesn't work out for you, I will eventually be selling a PM45 tailstock. Let me know if you'll be needing it. (Mine came with a PM45 tailstock and I got a PM90 one to replace it, but the riser hasn't been made for it yet...) Good luck with the rest of the project and keep the pics coming! Again, great job.

[Doug Morgan]

I'm heading over to get some JB Weld to fill some voids in the casting of the tail stock. I will also pick up some new Key stock for my restoration process. Some of the original keys have been beat with a hammer (why? I don't know) and are in bad shape. This lathe has been misused by previous owners and I want it in better shape (almost new).

There have been several different parts that I have had to clean up. Like this collar that has paint and tool marks cut into it.

Before:
201581

After:
201582

I want this lathe to be as good as I can personally get it.

[Mike Cruz]

Looks like "as good as you can" is better than most...

[Doug Morgan]

Looks like "as good as you can" is better than most...

Thanks Mike. I appreciate you. I would really love to find my next project and do the same to it.

[Mike Cruz]

Carefull what you wish for...your whole shop will turn out to be projects on machines, and a whole lot less wwing... :) DAMHIK...

[Doug Morgan]

One update on the repair for the tail stock. The heli-coil partially extracted itself out of the hole. I got another (the first one the tang was already removed) and this time I put some adhesive on the threads to prevent it from repeating. Hopefully this will make a difference. If not I will have to go to a time-sert. Its a newer product that is not just a coil of wire replacing the threads but a solid bushing insert. One step is different with this unit. You have to use a countersink to put this one into the tail stock. They are also a bit more expensive.


201600

http://www.timesert.com/

[Doug Morgan]

With the exception of the motor belt (1/2" X 23") I have all the parts to put this machine back together. Now I have to get the primer to prep the parts for painting. New key stock both 1/4 and 3/16" for new keys, bearings, bushing for banjo, and the Goodyear belt for the variable speed. One step at a time. :D

201601

[Doug Morgan]

Well Tomorrow is my birthday and I have to spend it in Indianapolis working on an MRI.

[Doug Morgan]

Carefull what you wish for...your whole shop will turn out to be projects on machines, and a whole lot less wwing... :) DAMHIK...

But I have to know DAMHIK...

[Mike Cruz]

My PM90 was my first old machine. Since I picked up an old (1990) Delta DJ20 (8" jointer) and an old (1958) Delta/Rockwell 28-350 (20" BS). Luckily the 1986 (or so) Powermatic belt/disc sander didn't need work...

[Mike Cruz]

Well, Happy Birthday to you! And here's hoping to MRI meaning Men's Ritual Intoxication...

[Doug Morgan]

Well, Happy Birthday to you! And here's hoping to MRI meaning Men's Ritual Intoxication...

Damnit That sounds good but no. I work on medical devices...

[Sam Layton]

Happy Birthday Doug. Sorry you have to work on your birthday.

Sam

[Joe Angrisani]

....If not I will have to go to a Time-Sert. Its a newer product that is not just a coil of wire replacing the threads but a solid bushing insert. One step is different with this unit. You have to use a countersink to put this one into the tail stock. They are also a bit more expensive.

Time-Serts are ABSOLUTELY the way to go for thread repair. Helicoil is a band aid. Time-Sert is fixed. They're not that new; been around perhaps 20 years.

There's a couple of special steps with a Time-Sert, actually. Everything you need comes in the kit for that particular size, but you can't install a Time-Sert without the matching install tools. You do have to countersink it, but it is a unique square-walled recess that holds that narrow flange at the top of the Sert. The oversized thread in the being-repaired-thing is cut with a tap that could probably be substituted. But the last tool runs through the Time-Sert after it's final install and expands it so the repair kinda bites in. You need the Time-Sert countersink and the Time-Sert expander widget.

If you don't mind (and can somehow possibly use) metric thread, send me a PM as I might have what you need to borrow. I think I have 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and 14mm, but would have to look. These are the final thread diameters.

[Doug Morgan]

Happy Birthday Doug. Sorry you have to work on your birthday.

Sam

Thanks Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Time-Serts are ABSOLUTELY the way to go for thread repair. Helicoil is a band aid. Time-Sert is fixed. They're not that new; been around perhaps 20 years.

There's a couple of special steps with a Time-Sert, actually. Everything you need comes in the kit for that particular size, but you can't install a Time-Sert without the matching install tools. You do have to countersink it, but it is a unique square-walled recess that holds that narrow flange at the top of the Sert. The oversized thread in the being-repaired-thing is cut with a tap that could probably be substituted. But the last tool runs through the Time-Sert after it's final install and expands it so the repair kinda bites in. You need the Time-Sert countersink and the Time-Sert expander widget.

If you don't mind (and can somehow possibly use) metric thread, send me a PM as I might have what you need to borrow. I think I have 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and 14mm, but would have to look. These are the final thread diameters.

I agree they look really impressive and built to last. I will drop you a PM when I get back. Thank you...

[Doug Morgan]

I'm trying to clean up the tail stock. Some of the flashing from the original casting is still there and I want to make it better than it was. So I took out some files, sandpaper and JB weld (I hate bondo) and attempted to clean up the tail stock.

201846

201845

[Doug Morgan]

Each part that is not getting painted and has a surface that is smooth and can be polished will get polished.
201865

201864

[Doug Morgan]

The upper sheave was difficult to open and close. After close inspection there were 2 different spots that had been hit by a hammer. Not that the damage was so severe that the sheave was trashed but enough to make the speed selection difficult. After carefully filing, sanding and polishing the sheave now moves with ease.

201890

201891

[Doug Morgan]

I took out the speed selector and polished the bearing surface. Lots of work prior to cleaning and applying primer to all the parts.

201904

[Mike Cruz]

The detail you've put into this documentation is almost unreal. Not only have you gone above and beyond, but you are sharing it. Keep it up. We're watching...

[Doug Morgan]

The detail you've put into this documentation is almost unreal. Not only have you gone above and beyond, but you are sharing it. Keep it up. We're watching...

Thanks Mike and everyone. I do appreciate all the comments and support.

[Bruce Page]

Time-Serts are ABSOLUTELY the way to go for thread repair. Helicoil is a band aid. Time-Sert is fixed. They're not that new; been around perhaps 20 years.

There's a couple of special steps with a Time-Sert, actually. Everything you need comes in the kit for that particular size, but you can't install a Time-Sert without the matching install tools. You do have to countersink it, but it is a unique square-walled recess that holds that narrow flange at the top of the Sert. The oversized thread in the being-repaired-thing is cut with a tap that could probably be substituted. But the last tool runs through the Time-Sert after it's final install and expands it so the repair kinda bites in. You need the Time-Sert countersink and the Time-Sert expander widget.

If you don't mind (and can somehow possibly use) metric thread, send me a PM as I might have what you need to borrow. I think I have 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and 14mm, but would have to look. These are the final thread diameters.

You can also look at Keenserts. It's what we used exclusively in aerospace rocket motors. The only special tool required is the insert tool and you can get by without it.

[Doug Morgan]

You can also look at Keenserts. It's what we used exclusively in aerospace rocket motors. The only special tool required is the insert tool and you can get by without it.

I just looked them up on the net and they too are impressive. Thank you for giving us more options on the thread problems.

I know for a fact that the indexing plunger that screws into the head stock has problems and I will more than likely have to repair that hole.

Thank you Bruce

[Sam Layton]

Doug,

You are doing a first class plus restoration on your lathe. I look forward to your posts, and progress.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Doug,

You are doing a first class plus restoration on your lathe. I look forward to your posts, and progress.

Sam

Thanks Sam as always. Hopefully I provide and insight to what it takes to restore one of these from a newbies view.

[Bruce Page]

I know for a fact that the indexing plunger that screws into the head stock has problems and I will more than likely have to repair that hole.

If they happen to be 1/4-20 UNC, let me know. I have a few Keenserts of that size in the shop.

[Doug Morgan]

If they happen to be 1/4-20 UNC, let me know. I have a few Keenserts of that size in the shop.

I believe that its a fairly large hole in the back of the head stock and will be almost the threads of a spark plug. At least thats what I see right now. The hole looks to be about 3/4" across.

201934

201935

[Bruce Page]

That's too bad. Keenserts in that size range probably won't be a practical option. The bigger ones get quite pricey.

[Doug Morgan]

That's too bad. Keenserts in that size range probably won't be a practical option. The bigger ones get quite pricey.

Even Heli-Coils are expensive at that size. One kit to fit a 3/4" hole is $70.

[Doug Morgan]

Now that I have my internet back and everything is back to normal I can update. My parts came that my wife had bought for my birthday. The indexing plunger did not match what others had, while it was close and could be modified to work. The threads on the head stock were not damaged but they did need cleaning out. The knob on top of the plunger should have one hole drilled through and 180 degrees should be a hole drilled down 1/8". As you can see from the bottom of the knob there are no holes.
202476

But I wanted to make sure everything else was correct. I staged the sprocket on the spindle head and made sure the line up was correct.
202478

Then I inserted the plunger. After tightening it down, I engaged the plunger into the sprocket.

202477

Everything works but needed to be tweeked. The spring was too long and needed to be trimmed down to allow me to disengage the plunger. Then the knob needed holes drilled to allow for engaging the sprocket. Look how closely the sprocket comes to the housing.

[Sam Layton]

I am glad you are back Doug. I have missed the progress.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

I am glad you are back Doug. I have missed the progress.

Sam

Thanks Sam I was going through sawmillcreek withdrawal. LOL

[Doug Morgan]

I contacted Bob Holcombe and Darnell for assistance with this plunger deal. While the plunger I have can be altered to work without problems it did not match the original unit.

Bob sent me a pics of the plunger on his unit. Here it is shown engaged. The knob has a hole that allows a pin to come through. Mine did not have any holes at all.
202498


Here it is dis-engaged. The pin is in a hole that is not drilled completely through the knob.
202497


Here is a shot of the underside of the knob and the 2 different holes about 180 degrees apart.
202499


If you noticed on the first and second picture from Bob, the shaft has been permanently attached to the knob. Here is a break down of my unit. I have taken time to drill holes in the knob for the pin engaging/dis-engaging.
202500


I will have to shorten the spring (presently it is too long to compress to fully dis-engage it from the sprocket). I am contemplating cutting off the screw and attaching it to the knob permanently or just leaving it alone. You old timers, (LOL I always wanted to say that!) what are your thoughts. I could just leave it alone or modify it to be closer to the original one.

[Mike Cruz]

Funny, Sam, I was thinking the same thing... Glad you are back Doug.

[Doug Morgan]

Funny, Sam, I was thinking the same thing... Glad you are back Doug.

Thanks Mike. Big smile :-)

[Doug Morgan]

Here's the issue with the new plunger. It was NOT the correct one for my lathe but it could be modified to work. I could not extract the plunger out far enough to dis-engage it from the sprocket. The spring was too long. I went out and purchased another spring for the plunger (not wanting to alter the original if I was wrong). The spring was the same size diameter and wire size. To start with it was also shorter so I was hoping not to cut it but that wasn't the case. I took off 3 rings off the spring to see if that would work. The spring still was too long. I cut another 1 1/4 ring off and tested the plunger again. This seems to work fine. The next issue is that the knob on the plunger can still unscrew. I will have to either a)cut the shaft off and mechanically secure it or b) place a lock nut on the back of the knob which will not look the best in my eyes.
202809

202810

If you dont secure the knob to the shaft you run a risk of loosing the adjustment and could leave the indexing pin engaged to the sprocket. NOT GOOD.

[Sam Layton]

Doug,

What is the possibility of obtaining another knob like the one you have, screw it up to your existing knob, tightening one against another, and it will not move... Looks wise, you will have two like the one you have. I think that would look OK.

Sam

[Matt Meiser]

What about just using some Loctite on the knob?

[Doug Morgan]

I have begun taping off the different parts to prime them today hopefully. I am wanting to get this thing back together. I have several small projects to finish as I get close to painting. I need the sprocket welded to the spacer, press off the bearing, polish and press on the new bearing for the stock head, finish the indexing plunger, and other small projects to finish. Some of these require completion before the painting can be done.

[Doug Morgan]

Well amid the work and the family I finally got back to taking the next step. I taped off the bearing surfaces and the covers.
203230
(Pic without flash)

203232
(Pic with flash)

203231
(Pic with flash)
I taped off several of the different pieces and have them ready for primer tomorrow. There is lots to prime so its going to take me some time. Then after drying, some sanding and then prep for final paint. There are still issues that need addressed like the indexing plunger, removing polishing and pressing on new bearings on the spindle head, and welding the indexing sprocket to the spacer for support.

[Mike Cruz]

Looking good, Doug. Great idea with the dowel...

[Doug Morgan]

The dowel idea came from being able to cover 360 degrees of the housing inside.

[Doug Morgan]

Tonight I primed the tool rest and the cover for the head stock. I got to looking at the quill nut for the tail stock and was not impressed by the polish job I had done earlier. Actually I had made a mental note to myself to re-examine the quill nut, sand out some tool marks and re-polish it to a mirror finish.
203322

I really like the mirror finish much better. The tool marks have been removed and it looks like some TLC has been applied. The Quill will need some TLC. It is in poor shape.
203323

[Sam Layton]

Looking good Doug, you are doing an outstanding job. You will be turning in no time.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Went back over the hand wheel, collar and motor pulley as well. I just wasn't happy with the work yet. So.... remember this guy?
203371
And the work on it turned out like this? (still visible tool marks and scratches in the polish)
203372
Well now it looks like this.
203373

The pulley for the motor drive, spindle shaft, and hand wheel all have been gone over again and now look 100% better. Tomorrow I will get my sprocket for the indexing wheel welded and that will make it so I can get it primed. Now I'm getting somewhere.

[Doug Morgan]

Today I went over to one of the fellow OWWM members house up in Columbus to have the collar welded to my sprocket. After I got home I had to do some filing on the sprocket to clean up the weld.
203547
I got the weld down filed down but I didn't like what it looked like so I used some JB Weld to clean it up and tomorrow I will sand it to look good for priming.
203548

While I was at the shop I had the main bearing pressed off the spindle head so I could clean up the threads, and shaft. I remembered that I had an old wrench that I don't remember where it came from but it looked almost large enough for the spindle head. I got it out and it was too small but small was good in the way that I could open it up with a file so...............
203546

After 30 minutes or so I had a wrench for my spindle head. I will treat it like to tail stock L15 wrench in that I will polish the lip around the wrench and paint the rest green.

[Doug Morgan]

Looking good Doug, you are doing an outstanding job. You will be turning in no time.

Sam

Thanks Sam I have been busy getting the last of the items off my check list. As soon as I get the sanding on the sprocket done I shouldn't have too much in front of me to prevent me from getting it primed.

[Doug Morgan]

What about just using some Loctite on the knob?

Matt that may be the way I will have to go. I'm in no rush to figure this out yet but I wanted to thank you for your input.

[Kevin W Johnson]

Doug,

I find your venture in this restoration fascinating. Its also very ironic that tonight, after reading thru most of this entire thread, that i find a Powermatic 45 listed on craigslist for $200. It's missing the tailstock however. How hard/easy/expensive is a tailstock to come by for this machine? I checked eBay, but no luck. It's also 3 phase, so i'd have to change it to single phase.

[Mike Cruz]

They aren't THAT hard to come by...:rolleyes:

[Doug Morgan]

They aren't THAT hard to come by...:rolleyes:

The head stock wrench is harder to come by than the tail stock wrench, but what the heck I was having fun. Besides it saves me money to buy other things (hint).

This morning I cleaned up the JB Weld and the sprocket is now ready for primer.
203599

[Doug Morgan]

Doug,

I find your venture in this restoration fascinating. Its also very ironic that tonight, after reading thru most of this entire thread, that i find a Powermatic 45 listed on craigslist for $200. It's missing the tailstock however. How hard/easy/expensive is a tailstock to come by for this machine? I checked eBay, but no luck. It's also 3 phase, so i'd have to change it to single phase.

Moderately difficult to find a tail stock but $200 is a great deal. Find out for yourself if that is a VS. Normally 3 phase is VS. I might be inclined to keep the 3 phase just because its reversible. Adding a phase converter in my garage is almost as expensive as purchasing a new motor (unless you can find someone who has one cheap). Ebay has been picked through for Powermatic parts but there are several different people out there that have parts.


http://www.redmondmachinery.com/

http://www.woodshopspecialties.org/inde ... &Itemid=63 (http://www.woodshopspecialties.org/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=1&Itemid=63)

https://parts.maam.waltermeier.com/

Leigh at MarMachine 949-645-7601

CAtruckman@aol.com

Just 5 to start with. I can find more for you.

[Doug Morgan]

Well yesterday I had a big oops. My DP is now just a drill no press. My table broke on the DP and its going to be a mess. The collar around the post was broken in 3 pieces. Sad mistake but I can't find a replacement or even a donor DP to repair this so its back to the drawing board.

[Doug Morgan]

Saturday I was over to another OWWM members home and they had some of these handles. I purchased one of them and I think it matches my theme for my lathe. What do you think? The handle rotates on a joint.

203737

I think it looks good and matches my polishing of the handwheel.:cool:

[Sam Layton]

Doug, the handle looks great. It goes right along with everything else, first class. I was looking over this thread from the beginning. Wow, you have come a long way in a short amount of time. I have a Davis and Wells 19" bandsaw I am going to start restoring in a couple of months. However, I don't think I can keep up with you... You have sure given me inspiration. I am excited to get started on my bandsaw.

Sorry to hear about your drill press. You know what you have to do...

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Doug, the handle looks great. It goes right along with everything else, first class. I was looking over this thread from the beginning. Wow, you have come a long way in a short amount of time. I have a Davis and Wells 19" bandsaw I am going to start restoring in a couple of months. However, I don't think I can keep up with you... You have sure given me inspiration. I am excited to get started on my bandsaw.

Sorry to hear about your drill press. You know what you have to do...

Sam

Sam its always great to see you have visited. I'm debating rather to take some vacation so I won't be interrupted when I prime the lathe. I keep polishing everything I can. I have been working on the wrench I made for the lathe. The tail stock L15 wrench has been stripped, filed, sanded and waiting for the polish wheel tomorrow. I only have 3 items primed right now, the head the tool rest and the cover for the head. As for the drill press I have to have one so I'm on the prowl for a good used one. I would rather have an old one made to last over a new one. But we will have to see. I think Im going to turn the old one into a polishing machine and put the grinder back to a grinder. Besides I'll need a grinder for the lathe tools eh?

[Doug Morgan]

Sorry no posts today. I was called away to fix a MRI in another state. I will return by Friday.

[Mike Cruz]

Slacker... :)

[Doug Morgan]

Just got back from Indianapolis where I worked on the system until 14:30 today. Finally got it up and running. I will be working on the lathe tomorrow.

[Mike Cruz]

Oh, shoot, you mean you got the system up and running...I thought you meant the lathe... I was wondering how you got it all spiffied up and operational already. Welcome "back". Enjoy the restoration.

[Doug Morgan]

I got back to work on polishing some more parts. Depending on rain tomorrow or not, if I will prime the bed and stand. That will really begin down the final road for this lathe.
204235

I wanted to show the before and after of the face plate. Most of you guys already know what its like to sit for hours polishing parts. I worked on just one area on the face plate to show where I started and where I'm going.
204238


I stripped the wrench that I purchased. It came painted and I didn't know if the color would match my color so off it came, then some polish and now to tape off the area to keep it clean and prime. Below is the wrench as it came to me, before stripping and polish.
204239

The wrenches are only polished around the tool area. The rest will be painted to match the lathe.

[Mike Cruz]

Wow, very impressive, Doug!

[Doug Morgan]

Wow, very impressive, Doug!

Thanks Mike. I want to assure everyone that I did not polish the area where the bearings ride. A little work in that area is OK but too much will destroy the spindle and that would be catastrophic.

[Sam Layton]

I with Mike, WOW... It is looking Great. Once you start the painting, its going to really transform things.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Thank you Mike and Sam. I have been hoping for some good weather and a break from all the traveling I have been doing to get back to this restoration. I have been taping the parts and plugging the holes to make sure that the primer and paint goes where I want.
204802

[Doug Morgan]

I had some time and wanted to redo the quill clamp handle and this time I took pictures as I did the work.
Step one. Clamped the stock into the chuck of the drill, hole in wood acts like a tailstock and began to file. The handle of the clamp is in the chuck.
204809
Step two remove more of the stock down to 3/8"
204813

204812

Here I started to define the collar that will do the actual clamping.
204808

The collar is now more defined and the stock is being turned down to 3/8" for threading.
204807

204811

All that's left to do is get the shaft turned down to 3/8"
204810

204806
You may note that there are two holes drilled in the tail stock. When one got a little sloppy I just took a moment to drill a second for saftey.

I'll finish this on the next thread.

[Doug Morgan]

Now that the clamp has been sized to diameter its time to cut off the excess. Wanna see a neat parting tool? LOL
204816

Just for your knowledge, you cannot just hold that tool or any of the files and let the drill press do the work. You have to move it like you're filling or cutting the metal (to which you are).

204817
The end of the clamp fell down into the hole.

Here is an picture of the first attempt and the second.
204814

And last a picture of the calipers on the shaft. I had to lay it down to take the pic so it looks a little funny.
204815

Well that's how I did it. I'm not a machinist and never claimed to be. I'm a field engineer working on medical equipment.
Now its time for sanding the clamp to remove any tool marks and on to the polishing.

[Doug Morgan]

Today before the rain hits I am working on the bed. Look at the left rail just about finished and the right waiting it's turn.
204960

[Doug Morgan]

The bed is taped up (top side anyway) and ready for primer. If weather holds out, its prime time.
204993

[Mike Cruz]

Looks good, Doug. But better move those car before doing any spraying! :) Actually, FYI, the brush/roll on stuff seems to have a much better hold than the spray on. But the spray on is SO much easier...

[Doug Morgan]

Mike,
I agree that the brush/roll puts more material on the project, but getting into those corners and such is easier with the spray. (and the bed has a lot of corners, I should know, it took me hours to get it all out!)

[Doug Morgan]

Success, I have primer on pieces parts. Pictures to follow

[Doug Morgan]

The train has begun to move again. I have primer on most of the parts of the lathe and plan to prime the stand tomorrow.
205365

The bed was coated also.
205364

I took a side shot to show you the bed as best as I could.
205363

There are 4 parts that still need primer.
205362

Can you tell me which ones they are? (Hint: Its not the head stock, cover or tool rest)
But there are 5 parts that have not been coated with primer. I figured this out after I went back into the house!

[Mike Cruz]

Um, legs...I don't see any legs...

[Doug Morgan]

Nah the stand doesnt count. I'll give ya another hint. I bought one with the wrench.

[Doug Morgan]

Well its the hand wheel for the tail stock, motor, capacitor covers (2) and the indexing plunger!

[Sam Layton]

Looking good Doug. All of that hard work is paying off. I am really enjoying seeing your progress. Outstanding job.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Looking good Doug. All of that hard work is paying off. I am really enjoying seeing your progress. Outstanding job.

Sam
Thanks Sam. It really is looking like I'll have a lathe soon.

[Doug Morgan]

I've primed the stand, motor, capacitor covers and tail stock hand wheel. I don't think I'm going to paint the Indexing plunger, rather I would like to polish it.

[Doug Morgan]

Here are the pictures of the stand, motor, capacitor covers, and hand wheel.
205443

Rear side of the stand
205442

Motor, capacitor covers and hand wheel
205441

I just remembered two more parts: the motor mount and the door for motor access in the stand.

[Doug Morgan]

I now have the paint to finish the lathe. Time to get hot.

[Doug Morgan]

I have been saving the door to match the color of the lathe. The inside of the door was the only place that was not touched by the darker green or black paint. Now its mostly clean.
Here is the before picture:
205569

And here is the after picture:
205568
I know there is some residue in the corners but there's thunder outside and I just don't want to become an antenna.

I can't begin to tell you just how excited I am right now. That soon I will be in the phase of rebuilding the lathe.

[Sam Layton]

I am excited to see if finished, and I am excited for you Doug. You have worked very hard, and all of your work is paying off.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

I am excited to see if finished, and I am excited for you Doug. You have worked very hard, and all of your work is paying off.

Sam

Thanks Sam Its getting close.

[Doug Morgan]

I have begun this morning to put some color to those parts that were primed. Things are looking good.

205610

205611

205609

I'm loving this now! I wanted to work on the smaller parts just to get a feel for how the paint was going to work. Now I can go on to the bed and stand.

[glenn bradley]

Its raining green things! That project is coming along nicely. It is sure to be a looker when you're done.

[Doug Morgan]

Its raining green things! That project is coming along nicely. It is sure to be a looker when you're done.

Thank you Glenn. I really want it to be as good looking as possible. A lot of elbow grease, time and effort went into this. Lets see how it finishes out.

[Doug Morgan]

I was very anxious about what some of the parts would look like without the tape. The bearing housing L122 seemed like a good candidate to remove the tape.
205640

Now that puts a smile on my face. Then I added 2 bearings and....
205693

[Mike Cruz]

Looking great, Doug! FWI, you will likely go through more cans of paint than you anticipate (by reading the coverage on the label) on the base...get more than you think you need.

[Doug Morgan]

Looking great, Doug! FWI, you will likely go through more cans of paint than you anticipate (by reading the coverage on the label) on the base...get more than you think you need.

I kinda figured that. I talked with Darnell and he said it took lots of paint. I have a gallon right now.

[David Warkentin]

When you get done with your 45 you can do my 90. I'll supply the paint:) Looking good!!

[Doug Morgan]

When you get done with your 45 you can do my 90. I'll supply the paint:) Looking good!!
I just might take you up on that, LOL. I want to find more to restore.

Doug

[Doug Morgan]

I went outside this morning and I wanted to share with you what I wake up to multiple times each week.

205690

205691

4 mommies and 3 babies. The bucks are in the woods. You can hear them but seldom see them unless you're in the woods early enough. (but thats called Hunting and its a no no in a residential area)

I took time to rebuild the motor and put it in a safe area.

205692

[Doug Morgan]

Well the forcast was for no rain after 12:00 noon. Here its 1:49 and I had to scramble to cover the lathe bed and get the compressor under cover. An to think I trusted that weatherman!

DAMN RAIN!

[Doug Morgan]

I did get some time to put paint on the bed. The inside looks almost as good as the outside will.
205770

I did turn the head stock over and get the underside of the housing finished so its done.
205769

And lastly I got the underside of the banjo painted so that's a good sign.
205767

Even though I had weather issues, I did move forward and that's always good. Ja'nette wants to look at the
variable speed lower shaft to see if she can recreate it. The damage on mine is almost too severe to put it back in.
I don't want this to die the first time I use it.

[Doug Morgan]

Well trying to get a heads up on the rebuild I ran into issues. This is much more than my drill press can create so now I'm at the mercy of a machinist or a parts supplier.

205806

205807

I'm going to talk to another woodworker that has a machinist shop also. We will see...

[Doug Morgan]

Got a reply from a Powermatic Parts source and they have the assembly for $50 plus shipping. I also have a mechanic standing by to which I am going to today.

[Doug Morgan]

I came home yesterday and got some paint on the bed and head stock. Got up early this morning and took off the tape to see what was cooking.
This paint is very soft so I have to be careful what I do with it. It takes about 3 to 4 weeks to get a good strong surface. The new oil paint has been
noted to take up to 2 months to completely cure.

205891

I just had to put the head stock on the bed for these pictures.

205892

I can't tell you how pleased I am with the turnout on these parts.

[Sam Layton]

It is looking great Doug. How many coats of paint are you spraying?

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

It is looking great Doug. How many coats of paint are you spraying?

Sam

I have been trying for 2 coats with dry time between.

[Doug Morgan]

This paint (since the clean air act) has been difficult to harden. You cant use any hardener (unless its automotive paint) mixed in with it. The paint is dry but soft. It will harden but it will take time. I may have to put it aside and wait a couple of weeks before I can begin to put this machine back together.

[Doug Morgan]

I came home after being on site delivery of the magnet in Springfield Mo. and checked on the paint. Finally it had hardened enough to begin to put some things back together. I started with the upper speed control for the lathe.
206302

Then I attached the bearing that will ride on the variable speed cam. The locking washer must be in the correct location to center the bearing on the cam.
206301

The parts have a much better paint job now than when I started and most likely when it was new. The parts did not have coverage over the entire surface.

The other arm will ride against a bearing plate attached to the sheave drive.
206303

I think I have to take that bolt and nut off and clean them up. They are just not up to the standards I started with.

[Doug Morgan]

Next came the tool rest. It is shown from all sides.
206312

206315

Including the underside.

206313

206314

[Sam Layton]

Your progress is looking good Doug. Be careful with that paint... Are you going to wax all of the polished areas so they don't rust?

Sam

[Joe Angrisani]

Lookin' great, Doug. I've been following but not posting. I bet you can see the finish line clearly by now!

[Doug Morgan]

Your progress is looking good Doug. Be careful with that paint... Are you going to wax all of the polished areas so they don't rust?

Sam
Sam
Yes! The ones that can be seen, I am covering them with Boeshield T-9. All the others are getting a coat of wax. Just after the adjustments I will do a minor paint touch up for any scratches or nicks during the rebuilding of the lathe. I really want this to last as long as possible.

[Doug Morgan]

Lookin' great, Doug. I've been following but not posting. I bet you can see the finish line clearly by now!

Thanks Joe. I do see a finish line as long as I can get this installation, for the company I work for, finished and out of the way. It will be 3 weeks long right after labor day.

[Mike Cruz]

Looking BETTER than factory perfect! My hat is off to you, Doug.

[Doug Morgan]

Looking BETTER than factory perfect! My hat is off to you, Doug.

Thanks Mike I really appreciate that!

[Doug Morgan]

I wanted to share with you some of the problems I continue to face with the previous owners of this machine. No they couldn't go out and get the correct pieces to install on the machine. Oh no they used Hillbilly engineering to fix them. Not trying to insult the hillbillies in the group but I think these people were so far under Hillbillies they had to look up to see bottom.
206464

This is the old motor cradle for my lathe. Cut in half to hold the motor that was an inch longer than the cradle. Not cut straight or filed off afterwards. No paint to prevent rust. And new holes drilled in the motor mount to hold this cradle. :(

Just to remind you I already stripped this cradle and cleaned it up. It looks better than when I first went to work on it.

[Joseph Tarantino]

i am really enjoying this thread and watching the progress of the restoration. keep those updates coming.

[Doug Morgan]

i am really enjoying this thread and watching the progress of the restoration. keep those updates coming.

Thank you Joe I do appreciate that. I have an update for you now. Keep in mind this is a dry fit and not the actual final assembly.
This is the original shaft that has the damage.

206611

The new shaft has been fitted with the new bearings but you can see the quality of work on this new shaft (and new Key).
206612

The shaft assembly will look like this.
206610

And from there it will fit into the lower speed assembly.
206609

I'm a ways away from actual final assembly just because I have to travel to Springfield Mo to do a installation. (I'll be there for 3 weeks) When I return I should have a straight shot to finish this lathe. Today its motor cradle wire brushing and primer. Sanding the stand for final paint and Sunday paint. What happened to Saturday you ask. I'm going to the Ohio State football game! Go Bucks!

[Doug Morgan]

Well before I get a thousand emails telling me the shaft is wrong (it is) I went by the manual and the manual is incorrect.
The 1964 manual has the L122 bearing housing drawn backwards.
206616

The newer manual (1968) has the L122 bearing housing correct but the housing itself is wrong. The pads actually face outward.
206618
206617

I checked another working 1964 lathe and indeed the L122 is drawn incorrectly in the 1964 manual. I should have relied on my pictures that has the entire assembly.
206629

[Doug Morgan]

I moved on to attempt to get the cradle finished today. I have stripped the paint off and filed the ends to accept the motor bell.
206637

Here you can see the gap I started with on one end.
206634

After filing the sides of the cradle I was able to seat the motor deeper into the cradle.
206635

And the other end.
206636

So which cradle do I use?
206633

Seriously though which plate do I drill, the cradle or the motor base?
The old holes no longer match up.

[Mike Cruz]

Tough call. Sorry, I can't make that one for you. Hmmmmmmm....nope still can't call it.

[Kevin W Johnson]

Do you have pictures of the motor base? And if you can easily remove the motor base, take a picture of the two side by side. As well as one with the motor base sitting on the cradle in the location in which it would be when the motor is on the cradle.

[Doug Morgan]

Well I'm back from Springfield MO. It took most part of 3 weeks to install the MRI but its finished. While I was there I visited a small woodworking store to see about picking up a couple of things. I am going to build a buffing station for my workshop. I have the motor but needed the mandrel to attach the buffing wheels to. Just another project to do...

[Sam Layton]

Hi Doug,

Good to see you back. I bet the paint on your lathe has cured by now. That will make assembly a lot easer... I know you are eager to get back at it.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

I'm taking vacation this week to finish this lathe before cold weather sets in (since I work in my garage and I have to move everything outside to use it). I am beginning with the lower sheave assembly. Last time I dry fit these together I had the shaft going the wrong direction. That won't happen again. I assemble the speed bearing first. A screw, bearing races, bearing and plate make up the assembly.
209120

After assembly they look like this. Note that the bumper is on here. That is temporary because I have not polished the screw or replaced the rubber bumper.
209125

Next I run the pin into the sheave. It goes across the entire assembly as shown.
209123

Then its time to press the bearing into the sheave.
209122

On the other end of the shaft there is the motor pulley. There was a plastic spacer on mine and it was not damaged so I could reuse it.
209127

The motor pulley is tightened to the shaft using a allen set screw.
209126

Once that is completed its time to attach the two sub assemblies into one larger assembly.
209121

And last together.
209124

The entire assembly with frame and speed selector weights over 33 lbs.
I was courious!

[Doug Morgan]

Here is the lower speed assembly. I will be touching up the paint after I have assembled it all just for preservation and because I want to (LOL).
209133


209132

[Doug Morgan]

I worked on the upper sheave this evening. I had issues with getting the spring and cup to seat. When I did I could not get the clip onto the sheave groove so I took out 3 hand clamps and spaced them around the sheave giving me the pressure necessary to get the cup under the groove for the clip. Then I was able to spread the clip and seat it in the groove. I scratched up some of the paint but touched it up before taking a picture.
209161

[Doug Morgan]

More errors on the drawings. I found that the drawing calls out for a 2.5 inch split pin to be driven through the upper sheave. That would put it through the spindle and that ain't happening.
209165
Its two 3/4 inch split pins on each side of the sheave not touching the spindle.

[Doug Morgan]

Well I turned the lathe over so that the head stock was towards the ground and on the table I made (good ole Norm) I was able to build the lower sheave. I started out with cleaning the bolts I was going to use today.
209239
Then I attached the head stock and secured it with the bolts.
209243
I got ahead of myself (only because I wanted to see just how close the bearing was going to be to the bed) so I attached the lower frame with the speed arms.
209245
There is an adjustment for the location but this was close to the bed.
I removed the lower frame to install the speed selector. Now this was fun. Darnell told me that he used washers on each end of the spring to make it easier to move the speed selector so I did the same. I think my washers were thicker but they worked and the spring was not too tight. phew... I used two hand clamps to slowly move the cam into its proper location. The washers did not cause any misalignment of the cam so everything worked correctly.
209246 (http://www.owwm.org/download/file.php?id=13181&mode=view)

Next step was to see how the cam worked with the speed arm. The first pic just showed the cam and bearing but not engaged.
209241

The second pic showed the bearing riding on the cam like it should.
209242

Better pic with the frame and arms.
209244

And one more
209240

[Doug Morgan]

One more picture on the speed cam installation from the bed. Here's a helpful tip. First put the cam on the shaft before you attempt to install it into the head stock. Then put it through the head stock and align the speed indicator and knob to the shaft. As I was tightening the clamps things would bind up. A little tap (I SAID LITTLE) with a hammer would free up the parts and I could continue to add clamp pressure until the cam was in place. Then just tighten the allen set screw.
209250
Continuing on with the assembly I wanted to test the rest of the parts. Now this is not to say that I left it like this. The belts needed to be installed and if the lower sheave was in place I could not get the belts on. So again a dry fit just to make sure I wasn't heading for the insane asylum.
209247

209248

209249

Now I did test the system but failed to remain alert until I turned the speed selector. Now I'm not a doctor but I sure know pain when I feel it! My hand was between the sheave when I turned the speed selector. Memory serves me, the sheave will compress making the belt travel up the pulley surface thus changing the speed, and pinching the @#$# out of my hand. Its OK you can laugh now!

[Doug Morgan]

Just as a test, as I shut everything down for the evening, I wanted to see the motor in place. The motor from the original owner was a 3/4 HP Dayton motor. Its the one I took apart and painted to match the lathe. Today I was given a 1 HP Westinghouse motor single phase / 115 or 230 vac / 1750 RPM. I wondered if that motor would fit the lathe so... (its actually larger than the Dayton)

While the Dayton motor has the better reputation, the Westinghouse has the better HP.

Any ideas?


209271

209270

[Mike Cruz]

Looking great, Doug. You've really taken this PM45 past new quality!

As for the original vs the Westinghouse, hp is certainly a factor. Another factor is age. If the Dayton is 50 years old, and the Westinghouse is 15 (and higher hp), I'd have to say go with the Westinghouse. Since you haven't put risers on this lathe (yet), I would think 1 hp would be the least you want to go. Don't know why they put a 3/4 hp motor on this lathe to begin with, but maybe a sign of the times. I put a 2 hp on my PM90, but mainly because I planned on putting a 3" riser on it. And let me tell you, I notice (even with the 2 hp motor) a drop in rpms when roughing out. So, in a nutshell, I'd have to say go with the 1 hp at a minimum. If you could sell the 1 hp and the 3/4 hp, it might give you a little cash to spring for a 1.5 hp. I think you'd be uberhappy with that.

[Doug Morgan]

Thanks Mike. I appreciate the input so much.

I might have an opportunity to come up with a 3 HP in the near future. I can't believe I would find a 5 HP single phase and doubt that I would want to put that on the lathe.

[Mike Cruz]

Hehe, yeah, 5 hp might be a little overkill...

Even at 3 hp on a 12" lathe, I doubt you would ever need that much. Again, I put a 2 hp motor on mine for 18" of swing (over the bed, not the gap). Granted, in hind sight, a 3 hp motor may not have been outrageous, but certainly not necessary. If you ever decide to make risers for it, you'll certainly need more than 1 hp. On that note, while some have hinted to it, I'll come out and say it. You've put more effort, care, and work into this lathe than it will ever be "worth". A PM45 just isn't worth a "whole" lot, maily because it is, after all, a 12" lathe. Compared to the new machines with more bells, whistles, and capacities, the bottom line is that it is what it is...a 12" lathe. Now, with a 2-3" riser, and all you've done, you've just created a lathe with the capictiy of most modern lathes...WITH the Powermatic name to back it up. I'm pretty confident in saying you didn't do all this work for resale or "value". You found an old lathe and decided to keep it alive. I not only tip my hat to you as a fellow old arn life-regiver, but applaud the vigilance you've shown in the restoration...not to mention the documentation! Just keep in mind that adding height to your lathe will help keep the value and effort you've put into that hunk of metal. AND it will keep you from wishing you had a bigger lathe turn a 14-16 or bigger bowl. :)

[Doug Morgan]

Thanks Mike. That is something I can consider at a later date. There would have to be 3 risers, one for the head stock, one for the tail stock and one for the tool rest. They would rather simple to do as long as each was machined together within tolerances.

[Sam Layton]

HI Doug,

Great progress on your lathe. I have a Powermatic 3520, with a 2 HP motor. I can not imagine needing more power that 2 HP. Do you know what types of things you are going to be turning? I would have a few questions when deciding what size motor to use, such as: What HP was the lathe designed for? How many HP will the speed control system handle long term? etc. As to the two motors you have, everything that Mike said. I like his idea of selling both, and buying a new one. I am by far not an expert on lathes and power. That being said, I think 5 HP is way, way, to much power.

I really enjoy watching you progress. You are going to have an outstanding lathe when you are finished.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Thanks Sam,
I am in no way considering a 5 HP motor. Its far too overkill. Nothing I would be doing would require that much HP. I was just searching on the net to see what the largest single phase motor (within reason mind you) you could find. I have a friend that has a 3 HP motor. The cost for the 3 HP is nothing so that's why I would consider using it. The 1 HP was free so that's why I considered using it. As a bonus it is reversible and that would be handy for sanding on the lathe. I want to keep the cost under control otherwise I would purchase a 2 HP and go with it.

[Mike Cruz]

Doug, the actually, you only need two risers...one for the headstock and one for the tailstock. The banjo is more of a "replace" or make a new one. Jeff Nicol (here on the Creek) did my risers and new banjo. He did a spankin' fantabulous job. When he did my risers for me, I had a PM45 tailstock on the lathe. Now that I have a PM90 tailstock, he's making me the riser for that. So, I'd have an extra tailstock riser...:rolleyes:

[Kevin W Johnson]

Doug, the actually, you only need two risers...one for the headstock and one for the tailstock. The banjo is more of a "replace" or make a new one. Jeff Nicol (here on the Creek) did my risers and new banjo. He did a spankin' fantabulous job. When he did my risers for me, I had a PM45 tailstock on the lathe. Now that I have a PM90 tailstock, he's making me the riser for that. So, I'd have an extra tailstock riser...:rolleyes:

I think you mean a new tool rest (taller) to go in the banjo....

[Doug Morgan]

Doug, the actually, you only need two risers...one for the headstock and one for the tailstock. The banjo is more of a "replace" or make a new one. Jeff Nicol (here on the Creek) did my risers and new banjo. He did a spankin' fantabulous job. When he did my risers for me, I had a PM45 tailstock on the lathe. Now that I have a PM90 tailstock, he's making me the riser for that. So, I'd have an extra tailstock riser...:rolleyes:

I was Looking at the lathe and the risers would require a new VS belt and thats quite costly right now. Especially since I just purchased the other belt. My wife would kill me!

[Mike Cruz]

Kevin, no, I actually meant a new banjo. A taller tool rest will allow you to get to center, but not to the outside edge of the new size of the blank. The original banjo will likely take you out to maybe 14" or so at the max.

Doug, yes, you would need a new belt. I would have to do some digging to see where I got mine, but it wasn't all that bad. Certainly did NOT get it from PM... I think it was from a place called something like belts4less.com. Again, I'd have to check.

[Doug Morgan]

Well here is the stand in all its painted glory!.
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Heres the back.
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And heres the head stock with the belts. I still have to finish the motor (paint, drill, mount , aline and adjust) and everything on the bottom will have to be removed to get the motor drive belt in. But I wanted to see the reeves drive work and to my pleasure it does.
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[Carl Beckett]

Its fun to watch this transformation Doug. Also because its happening in Lancaster OH (my mother lived there and I grew up in Athens) - you will no doubt end up with one of the nicest pieces of machinery in Lancaster to be sure.

:)

[Doug Morgan]

Its fun to watch this transformation Doug. Also because its happening in Lancaster OH (my mother lived there and I grew up in Athens) - you will no doubt end up with one of the nicest pieces of machinery in Lancaster to be sure.

:)

Thanks Carl. I am enjoying the restoration. If you ever come back to Lancaster drop me a line before you come and I'll be glad to meet you for lunch.

Doug

[Carl Beckett]

Will keep that in mind Doug, thanks. I do have family/friends all over SE Ohio still so get through on a regular basis. After watching this thread on the restoration, it would be fun to see this masterpiece in real life.

Of course, I wouldnt want to turn anything on it - I would be afraid of scratching the paint.... ;) Cant wait to see the first test piece to come off it! It wont be long now....

[Doug Morgan]

Today I took time to touch up all the paint before making final preparations for the motor.
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This is quickly coming to a close and will open another chapter in my wood shop. Within the next 3 days I will attach the motor, make final adjustments and then its time to put it on the stand.
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And no I did not paint the motor belt green, it came that way.

[Mike Cruz]

Doug, where on Earth did you find the time to work on your lathe with all this SS discussion? :D Looking great...and I really had to look to see the green belt...

[Doug Morgan]

Doug, where on Earth did you find the time to work on your lathe with all this SS discussion? :D Looking great...and I really had to look to see the green belt...

Work takes more of my time than anything else!

[Sam Layton]

Doug,

Your lathe is looking great. I did not see the green belt until I read Mikes comment. When you finish your lathe, what are we going to do??? I know, start another project rebuild... I have really enjoyed watching your progress. You will be spinning wood in no time.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Thanks Sam
Yes I have to find something else to work on. This has been a real joy just going through this machine and breathing life into it.

Here's the motor mounted to the lathe.
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I turned on the system and it ran. I have to make some adjustments but it ran. What excitement it was just to see the lathe run for the first time after it was rebuilt.

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That's the 1 HP motor on the lathe.

[Doug Morgan]

Well things are looking great on this end. I finally got the lathe back on the stand, and a mobile base on the lathe.
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And the head stock is finished.
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Whats left to do is:
1. Tail stock together
2. Tool rest together
3. Motor installed
4. Electrical finished
5. Bright work (machine tag, decals, etc)

[Mike Cruz]

Like I said before...looks better than new!

[Doug Morgan]

Like I said before...looks better than new!

I agree it does look better than new but then I'm biased.

I'm glad to get my garage back in order. The lathe had taken over the garage. It was necessary to turn the lathe over to mount and adjust the belts, motor and mechanical parts.

[Sam Layton]

+ one on what Mike said. Wow, Doug, your lathe sure looks good. Looks like you are just about ready to turn some wood... Do you have the turning tools yet?

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Thank you Sam,
Sadly no I have to purchase them yet. My wife is getting me a 4 jaw chuck for Christmas. (she asked me what I wanted) I will pick up some turning tools for my lathe soon.

[Doug Morgan]

I worked getting the garage cleaned up. Its not finished by any stretch of the imagination but its started. Then I put the tool rest and tail stock together. That and the door with the knob really dressed up the lathe.

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But I just couldn't resist putting more on.
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Tomorrow it should be electrical time.

[Doug Morgan]

Made the fasteners from carpet tacks (so the box called them). The were barely too small but after cutting them to length and tapping them with a hammer (yes I know I used hammer technology and I was a hammer mechanic but what was I supposed to do?) I made them fit very tight.
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I got a double pole switch for my motor but I continue to search for a cover from Arrow Hart (the old red switch cover). I know lots of guys have been looking for them, me included.

[Mike Cruz]

Doug, is that a faceplate you have on there? It doesn't have any predrilled holes in it. Is that supposed to be an outboard handwheel maybe?

[Doug Morgan]

Thats the faceplate that came with the lathe. The threads are right handed and this is the only part of the spindle with RH threads. You are correct that it does not have any holes. Maybe there was an LH theaded center that would have been for the outboard portion of the spindle but it wasn't with the lathe.

[Mike Cruz]

So, are you going to drill holes in it? Maybe call PM tech support and ask them what's up with it...I mean, pardon my ignorance, but how do you use a faceplate with no holes?

[Doug Morgan]

Mike thats the million dollar question. The only thing I could think of is that the center of the plate is removable and maybe this plate with a LH thread adapter would have gone on the outside of the spindle to be an handwheel? I am getting together some of the tools necessary to do lathe work. I don't want to put any holes in the plate only because it has "Made in the U.S.A." on the back of it.

[Mike Cruz]

Yeah, call PM and ask tech support...they may know.

Word of caution, while the faceplates are either not horribly expensive or at least may not be proprietary (letting you get any faceplate with that thread and diameter), that faceplate/handwheel might be proprietary...and therefore expensive. For example: I considered getting a new outboard 8 1/2" faceplate/handwheel for my PM90, and while Powermatic still has them, they want $202 for it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Granted, it is aluminum, 1 1/8" 7 tpi reverse thread...VERY proprietary.

[Doug Morgan]

Yeah, call PM and ask tech support...they may know.

Word of caution, while the faceplates are either not horribly expensive or at least may not be proprietary (letting you get any faceplate with that thread and diameter), that faceplate/handwheel might be proprietary...and therefore expensive. For example: I considered getting a new outboard 8 1/2" faceplate/handwheel for my PM90, and while Powermatic still has them, they want $202 for it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Granted, it is aluminum, 1 1/8" 7 tpi reverse thread...VERY proprietary.

Is 7 TPI 1 1/8 inch diameter the same on mine? I'm going to have to call you.

[Sam Layton]

Doug,

I would say that is not a face plate. Looks like a sanding disk to me. What is the dia of the disk? Use the round sanding disk paper with the adhesive backing and stick it to the disk.

Sam

[Doug Morgan]

Sam you're probably correct. Its 8 1/2" diameter. That leads me to believe that it is a sanding disk.

On the back it has DDL-33, MADE IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. (except the 33 is either upside down or backwards)

The center piece has DDL180

[Mike Cruz]

Feel free to call me anytime, Doug. But my PM90 spindle on the inboard side is 1 1/2" 8tpi right hand thread. The outboard is the ever so odd 1 1/8" 7tpi left hand thread. I don't believe that your PM45 has the same sizes. Actually, I'm quite sure your inboard is smaller, but not sure about the outboard.

[Mike Cruz]

Good call, Sam. I'm sure you are right.

Doug, let me know what your PM45 takes. Either 1 1/4" or 1" 8tpi right hand thread...most likely.

[Doug Morgan]

I just measured it and its definitely 1 inch. I put my calipers on 1/2 inch and counted the threads. There were 4 so its definitely 8TPI. Being that its a 1" 8TPI.

On the outside its again 1 Inch LH thread 8 TPI.

[Doug Morgan]

I HAVE AN OPERATIONAL LATHE. It is restored and looks fantastic.
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Some bright work to do to complete it but it looks so darn good. It stood the nickel test and passed with flying colors.

[Mike Cruz]

Congrats, Doug!!!!!!!!!!! Feels great, doesn't it? What I don't understand is why your lathe is so crisp and shiny, but your wood is dull and fuzzy? :)

A lot of hard work paid off there. I hope you enjoy it for years and years and years.

How about some more pics...some with it all dirty, too. :)