Doug Wolf
06-18-2011, 6:37 PM
I would like to thank all of you who have posted your ideas on remote switches for your 3520's.
I quit procrastinating and finally made mine. I thought I would only use it when I was was turning something large and had to reach around it to hit the stop switch. Boy was I ever wrong, I actually use it more than the original stop switch. Since I can move it to the tailstock, safety cage, bed ways, or wherever it is easy to reach, I use all the time. I used a leftover toggle switch I had from the house and planned on ordering a push-pull stop switch like to one that comes on the lathe. However, I've found that the toggle switch is easier to turn off and on so I'm going to keep it the way it's setup.
It is wired in series with the original switch, so both have to be "ON" for the lathe to run. Either one will shut the lathe off. I bought a Harbor Freight welding magnet and a plastic box with the toggle switch and cover. I have just under $10 in the switch and can't believe I waited so long to make it.
198403
I quit procrastinating and finally made mine. I thought I would only use it when I was was turning something large and had to reach around it to hit the stop switch. Boy was I ever wrong, I actually use it more than the original stop switch. Since I can move it to the tailstock, safety cage, bed ways, or wherever it is easy to reach, I use all the time. I used a leftover toggle switch I had from the house and planned on ordering a push-pull stop switch like to one that comes on the lathe. However, I've found that the toggle switch is easier to turn off and on so I'm going to keep it the way it's setup.
It is wired in series with the original switch, so both have to be "ON" for the lathe to run. Either one will shut the lathe off. I bought a Harbor Freight welding magnet and a plastic box with the toggle switch and cover. I have just under $10 in the switch and can't believe I waited so long to make it.
198403