Best plywood to use for shop cabinets that comes in 4x8 sheets?

[Stephen Saar]

I normally like to use Baltic birch whenever I need plywood, but I'm making some larger shelve units for my shop and I'll need some plywood in the 4x8 range. Does anyone have any good recommendations for something that is comparable to the Baltic birch both in quality and price/sqft. I don't need these to be pretty, so I'm trying to stay away from the veneered plywood due to the prices, but I'm not sure what else would be comparable. I definitely don't want the borg plywood. I can't hardly even find a sheet that isn't warped or delaminating, or both.

Thanks.

-Stephen

[Kevin Stricker]

Austin Hardwoods carries Russian Ply, which is 4x8 BB. You might also want to ask for shop grade ply which is sometimes similar to bb w/o the veneer.

[David Kumm]

If you have a menards, they carry a BB type in 4x8, 3/4 1/2 and1 /4. In a pinch I'll use underlayment plywood for drawer bottoms and backs. Pretty nice stuff other than the little x's on one side. Dave

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Baltic Birch I haven't been able to purchase locally. I have had good luck using 3/4" A-C plywood from my local lumberyards but keep in mind, I paint my shop cabinets. I have quit buying wood from my local Borg. I get better quality from the local lumber yards.

[Mike Schuch]

Are you planning on painting the shelves?

For my shop shelves I made a frame for each shelve out of 2 x 4 stock, ripped in half, jointed and planed to a uniform size with a rabbit around the top inside to accept the plywood. Makes for a very strong shelf. I use C D plywood for the shelf to put in the frame. I then cover the joints and gaps between the plywood and frame with good old Bondo and sand. I then sprayed them with gloss enamel before assembly. They are quite attractive very sturdy shelves that have served me 10+ years now and still look new. The Bondo fills in all the grain in the plywood making the shelves look like kind of like a solid surface type material.

I built the shelf 20" off the floor in the laundry room to hold the washer and dryer with the same design. After 10+ years of constant wet and daily violent vibration there is not signs of cracks or shelve failure. They are dirty but wipe up very easy because of the grainless smooth surface.

P.S. I always paint both the tops and bottoms but don't bondo the bottoms.

[Myk Rian]

I really like using MDO ply. Otherwise known as signboard. Paper coated on one, or both sides. Weather proof, and looks good.
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/965

[Mike Schuch]

MDO... ARE YOU CRAZY... Hmmm... WOW... That looks like REALLY nice stuff for shelves!!!!! I have never come across it before. Is it expensive?

[Kent Chasson]

Apple Ply is similar. Void free, lots of plies. Very stable. Usually similar price to a bit more but you get a nicer face veneer. Not sure about availability.

http://www.appleply.com/

[Chip Lindley]

These ARE shop cabinets, after all! Unless you desire your utilitarian cabinets to assume the look of fine furniture, use yellow pine A-C sanded plywood. Flat sheets can be found at the BORG if you pick through the pile! A-C has patches on the C-side, but the A-side is smooth and very paintable. The insides of shop cabinets should not come under close scrutiny. Why waste really nice ply on utilitarian cabinets? You can always spiff them up with real raised panel doors, taking ALL the attention off the boxes. The carcasses need only be sturdy and square.

[George Gyulatyan]

There is also ApplePly from States Industries and EuroPly from Columbia Forest Products, both american-made multi-core plywood close enough to BB but with birch/alder cores. They both come as 4x8. The most widespread versions for both are ones that have rotary cut maple veneers on the faces. Expensive though compared to BB. In my area, they go for around $80 - $125 for 3/4" panels.

[Howard Acheson]

For shop cabinets, use a standard birch or maple faced 3/4" B/C plywood. There is no need to incur the expense of "Baltic Birch" or any other premium plywood. MDO plywood is an expense that makes little sense. It's a exterior grade plywood with a paper laminate overlay that is intended for exterior signs. The "B" face of standard plywood will be able to be stained but I would recommend painting the cabinets.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I know you said "no BORG plywood," but I would look at HD's shop grade (C-3) birch. It's made by Columbia Forest Products. The Chinese stuff Lowes carries is TRASH!

[Kurt Cady]

I've had absolutely no problems with the HD special buy A/C plywood. It's $25ish for 23/32 and $18ish for 15/32. It can use a good sanding after a first coat of finish be it paint or poly.

It's from Chile and I started seeing it again about 3-6 months ago after buying 4-5 sheets before their earthquake.

[Tom Clark FL]

Well, we all have our preferences. I built a couple of my first shop cabinets from AC, but quickly switched to Oak ply for it's warm color. Paid about $30 something for the AC, and $44 for the Oak. I have always found it to be flat and stable, and a pleasure to use compared to the fir plys. For drawer material I use the 1/2" Sandeply. It's cheap and flat. Drawer bottoms are 1/4" doorskin ply. With a couple of dozen cabinets in the shop, I just like the quality look of Oak.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom,

I pay $34 for 3/4" A-C, $72 for 3/4" oak, $38 for 1/4" oak and they don't stock 1/2 oak...except at the BORG and I would rather use a good 3/4" A-C than the lower quality 1/2" oak at the BORG.

Regional supplies and prices dictate what one can use for cabinets while balancing quality and price. I am using A-2 3/4" oak on an entertainment center. This is the first time I have bought this oak plywood from one of my local lumber yards and I am pleased with it's quality.

[Stephen Saar]

Thanks for all the tips, I might try HD again, I went by lowes today, but I wasn't impressed with plywood. Luckily in Atlanta I've been able to get very reasonable prices for BB, so it's what I normally use, but I'll keep an eye on HD stuff, and I'll have to see if I can find anywhere for apple ply. Looks interesting.

Thanks.

-Stephen

[Neil Brooks]

I do like the idea of shop-grade plywood.

LINK (http://www.ehow.com/info_8523236_shop-grade-plywood.html)

It's worth inquiring about....

[Tom Clark FL]

[QUOTE I pay $34 for 3/4" A-C, $72 for 3/4" oak, $38 for 1/4" oak and they don't stock 1/2 oak...except at the BORG and I would rather use a good 3/4" A-C than the lower quality 1/2" oak at the BORG.

Regional supplies and prices dictate what one can use for cabinets while balancing quality and price. I am using A-2 3/4" oak on an entertainment center. This is the first time I have bought this oak plywood from one of my local lumber yards and I am pleased with it's quality.
[/QUOTE]

Ken,

When I lived in Sarasota, there was a huge cabinet shop supply house in Tampa, and they delivered good quality plywood right to our shop. When we moved to the boonies, I had to switch to Big Orange. Frankly, I found the prices cheaper and the quality about the same. Guess it depends on the area we live in??

Anyway, here are a couple of photos of A-C shop cabinets. They just look cheap! Of course they do work, but for about $40 more per project, I still prefer the better grade woods.

Also built an entertainment center about 25 years ago. Still works fine.

[Rick Gooden]

+1 on the MDO if you are painting. $55 a sheet at Mennards.

[Matthew Hills]

Also built an entertainment center about 25 years ago. Still works fine.
Now that's impressive -- what size of TV were you using 25 years ago?

Matt

[Tom Ewell]

3/4" - 1/2" Arauco plywood for cases, shelves, drawer boxes.
1/4" underlayment for drawer bottoms, door panels and cabinet backs (if you need them).
#2 pine for face frames, rail/stiles, drawer fronts

it is just for the shop

Can also find some old book cases, add frames and doors and hang 'em on the wall.
Repurposing the pull outs from kitchen remodels works too.