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View Full Version : Traditional Centerboard and Case – Part I - The Board



Bob Smalser
02-10-2005, 2:11 PM
Whether a new boat or a retrofit, the board and case are best made as a complete, stand-alone functioning unit before installation into the hull.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84796221.jpg

5/4 Q-Sawn White Oak planed, jointed and laid out completely with all hardware before any assembly:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84779985.jpg

Bronze drifts installed after glueup:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84760753.jpg

End cleats fitted…

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84781053.jpg

….and assembled using Red Lead paste followed by non-adhesive bedding compound and 20D copper nails:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84781075.jpg

Assembled board checked for twist with winding sticks one last time before final shaping:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84781787.jpg

Exposed section of board tapered from 15/16” to 11/16” in the direction of water flow:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84781806.jpg

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84781830.jpg

Continued…

Bob Smalser
02-10-2005, 2:12 PM
Undercut double through-mortise for lead weight is cut, the wood primed with Red Lead…

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84781857.jpg

…and the weight is poured…the lead was still boiling when the shutter snapped:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84771679.jpg

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84771686.jpg

Lead hammered into mortise undercuts after it cools and shrinks:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84784155.jpg

Lifting handle strap is heated and bent over a form…:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84782108.jpg

…the board end of the lifting handle is formed over a length of pipe and brazed…

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84782122.jpg

….and the strap is installed in its mortises with epoxy and 16D copper rivets:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84843568.jpg

The handle will be cut to length and finished after the centerboard case is assembled….and the first coat of porch and deck enamel is applied:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/84843552.jpg

Images not my own are from John Gardner’s The Dory Book.

Michael Perata
02-10-2005, 5:24 PM
Bob

Give me a 420# lead keel any day. No puny boards for me. :p

I had the joy of replacing my keel bolts on an 18' Mercury - sailed very stiff afterwards.

Nice job on the centerboard by the way. :) :)

Tyler Howell
02-11-2005, 9:12 AM
Another day in school!

Thanks Bob!:cool:

Jim Dunn
02-11-2005, 9:28 AM
Such craftsmanship! I enjoy your threads like I like watching loml getting ready to go out for the evening:) And that's a very high compliment!

Jim

John Bailey
02-13-2005, 8:55 PM
Bob,

As always, very interesting and informative. Good job and I'll look forward to more.

John

Jerry Olexa
02-13-2005, 9:11 PM
Bob, you are truly, a gifted and skilled craftsman doing extraordinary work!! I just simply enjoy reading your posts and by the way, I learn immensely from your examples. I'm awfully glad you're part of this forum...Thanks for your posts!!

Bob Smalser
02-13-2005, 10:25 PM
Bronze or galvanized are used because unlike wood or brass, they are stiff and aid the board in preventing deflection.

No glue in those long drifts....they are bedded in red lead. Glue would be a mistake just like it would be for the end cleats because it'd crack the board in seasonal movement. The drifts were nicked with a chisel along their lengths so they pound in but won't back out with seasonal movement.

The old way is to drive it all together with white lead and no glue at all, then drill out and pound in any angled drifts.

I prefer to lay the boards up with epoxy, first, using alignment dowels if required and drill/drive the long drifts in from the outside after it's all cured. That way there's no danger of pounding two boards together that won't meet because the drift is either a tad too long or hung up.

Here's the pin....designed to the board won't flop around in the case:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6583947/85168918.jpg

The bushing is .750.

I turned the pin down to .725.

I'll turn two laminated White Oak caps bored and epoxy bedded for the pin ends to be screwed into the bed logs with sealant to capture the pin.

Dave Richards
02-14-2005, 9:18 AM
Bob, another great lesson. I very much enjoy reading your tutorials. Thanks

Glenn Clabo
09-17-2009, 4:36 PM
Moving to Boat Building Forum...