Buckeye slab

[Scott Cyr]

Hello,
I have a new table top project that I'm working and need advice on finishing. The Slab has a natural edge less the bark. There is alot of sharp eyes on the natural edges. Was wonder, if anyone has experiance that can let me know if I should leave them as is, knock these down or just dull them. Also, thinking finishing would be a little difficult with them. Any suggestions on keeping the finished product naturally light but trying to get the grain to pop.
Thanks
Scott

[Scott Holmes]

A picture would help a lot. What type of table will this be?

[Tom McMahon]

Osborn makes what are called "Grit Cup Brushes", they are available in various grits. I have used the finest one to polish live edges with good results. I got mine at a log home supply store, but they are on line.

[Scott Cyr]

This is a coffee table project that is 55" x 37". The problem is that it runs from 3" to 3 1/2" thick. But if I make the top and bottom parallel, it will open up pockets on both sides that would greatly reduce the flat areas. Little reluctant to do that.
This pic is when the slab was in the rough sewn stage. I'll try to get another pic up later today. On the top edge in the pic you will see it has alot of live edge showing with alot of nooks that is near impossible to get into with a grit brush unless it was the diameter of a pencil. The natural finish without the bark on it is nice. If I start a process, I don't know how it will come out if I cant be consistent and get to the areas that are visible but not accessible.
Also was wondering what type of finish you would suggest to keep the lighter look but get the grain to pop.
Thanks for the help.

197385

[Chris Fournier]

That's gonna be nice!

I've done a fair bit of work with like edges like this and this one begs to be bead or soda blasted. Depending on the hardness of the burl and the detail that you want to retain, you can choose a media that will clean it up but not rough it up too much.

The live edges will be a bit tricky to finish and I recommend an oil based varnish, not poly and you'll have to spray quite a few very dry coats on the edge. If you start to get runs it will make a giant mess. If you do get a run, you can chase it off the edge with a low pressure blast from an air hose.

Love to see a finished pic!

[Scott Cyr]

Thanks Chris,
The power washer actually cleaned it up pretty nice. The main problem is the sharpness of the points. It seems the finish will not last on the points when handled? Don't really know as I don't have any experiance with this type edge.

So it sound like using a Tung oil Varnish like Old Masters might be best? I'm trying to keep the color as light as possible and grain popping. I'm thinking a few coats of Gloss and then a final coat of semi or satin. You suggest not using poly, why is that the case?
Thanks

[Chris Fournier]

I'd want to knock the points down a bit for sure.

As has been said around these parts (SMC) many times, Poly is best on floors.

A good spar varnish or interior varnish is fine by me and would be my choice, linseed or tung oil based wouldn't matter to me. While so many folks like to have a thick epoxy like coating on these burl pieces I think that this detracts from the piece. Get a consistent dry film rub to the sheen you're after and let it glow is my advice.

Oh yeah, if your rubbing the finish out, be carefull with the swarf, it's a real paint to get out of all the nooks and crannies!