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View Full Version : A little Tiger Myrtle and Olive.



Derek Cohen
06-06-2011, 8:29 AM
A few months ago a good friend of mine surprised me with a couple of pieces of Olive wood after hearing me say I admired the figure and texture of the wood, but how difficult I found it to come by. Thanks again Ian!

One of the pieces was self-selecting as it was large enough for the handle of a marking knife. It became this one ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Knife7.jpg


The other was a small board, quite cupped, however I managed to rescue a section, handplane it flat, resaw it, and created a book matched piece about 10" long, 4" wide and 1/4" thick. This I ear-marked for a lid of a box.

I enjoy building boxes as a quick-fix when a longish furniture build begins to become work. My family and friends have several each. These days they run and hide if they see me carrying one. So I decided this one was for me (I don't have any), and it would be a pencil box for my desk. I had just the piece of wood for this.

A couple of years ago I brought back a suitcase of wood from a visit to Tasmania. Mostly Huon Pine (very precious), some Sassafras, and a little Tiger Myrtle. The light Olive would be highlighted best by dark Tiger Myrtle.

This short project (in all it took about 2 hours, excluding time for glue to dry) was also an opportunity to finish the Donkeys Ear I needed for the ramped shooting board I built recently as I had given my last one to a friend. I think that it is more traditional for pencil boxes to be mitred. Anyway, I did not want dovetails as they would make the busy Tiger Myrtle even busier.

Now even before I added the Donkeys Ear, the shooting board needed a modification (does this happen to you - start one thing, then you need to do something else first, and something before that ...?!). The initial mod was to add a rail, ala the Stanley #52, which would prevent the plane moving away from the edge of the work piece. These mitres must be planed accurately otherwise the joining edges will have gaps. It is difficult enough to hold the work still; it is a complication when the plane moves as well. So this is what I did ...

Set up with the LN #51: http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/A1.jpg

Set up with the LV LAJ and hotdog handle: http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/A2.jpg

Details ... http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/A3.jpg

The completed Donkey's Ear ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/A4.jpg

Note that the fence has non-slip (salt sprinkled over varnish).

More details. Dovetailed support at rear (for fun), and secured to the main fence with a bolt. The fence has micro-adjustability, the board has levelling feet underneath, so the Donkey's Ear is adjustable in 3 dimensions.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/A5.jpg

In use ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/A6.jpg

Actually, I deliberately did this the long way. Generally I first saw the mitres with a mitre box. The Myrtle is medium hard and I simply planed away the waste.

Once the ends of the board sides were mitred, the pieces were taped together from the rear (in lieu of using clamps), and glued. The jig used here was one I learned from Andrew Crawford (on a box-making course of his). It is the best way to ensure everything is square. I use it for drawers as well. No fussing with measuring diagonals.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/B1a.jpg

And the result (9 1/4" long x 4 1/4" wide and 2 1/2" high) ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/B1.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/B2.jpg

The front: http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/B3.jpg

The base is Kauri Pine from New Zealand:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/B5.jpg

And a close-up of the Olive wood figure ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/boxes/Pencil%20Box/B4.jpg

Thanks for looking.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Jerome Hanby
06-06-2011, 8:36 AM
Not sure how many others are impacted by this., but, i can see images uploaded to SMC with no problem. Most other photo hosting services are blocked for me. In the wake of the last observations of this, there was a long period where i seldom hit a post where i couldn't see pictures. Lately it's become much more common...

Terry Beadle
06-06-2011, 8:39 AM
Super ! Excellent ! Too cool and must draw the dreaded "You suck" birds.

That box is so elegant. Well done.

george wilson
06-06-2011, 9:10 AM
Very nice!! You are making me want to build one of those #52 type planes though I have little use for one as I don't make furniture very often.

Robert G Brown
06-06-2011, 9:42 AM
Beautiful Work. Rail & Salt on Varnish - New to me. Really enjoyed & learned from your postings over the years. Thanks

Steve Thomas
06-07-2011, 8:28 AM
Derek,
that's Nice.

That Olive grain and colour looks not too far away from some cypress? any thing like it to work with?

Derek Cohen
06-07-2011, 9:57 AM
Thanks Steven. I can't say that I have worked Cypress though. I love the colour and figure but too many knots.

George, I'd love to see a #51 (the plane) by you. It would, no doubt, be better than the original!

Robert, I used to make nonslip for windsurfers out of caster sugar sprinkled very, very finely over the thinnest coating of epoxy resin applied with a roller. This creates a fine sandpaper-like finish that does not wear. For a coarser finish, substitute table salt. And for a quick drying coat, use poly varnish in place of epoxy.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Tony Shea
06-07-2011, 5:15 PM
Awesome Derek. The olive wood bookmatch is very bird like. The figure is just great and bookmatches wonderfully. And you've inspired me to start my darn donkey's ear, been putting it off for far too long. And I may just make a new shooting board as I love that inclined one of yours. I just recently was shooting some rosewood that was extremely hard and it really dulled the blade. But it was in just one 1/2" spot. I think an inclined platform would help with this localized wear.

And I also would love to get ahold of some olive wood. Of late I've noticed it over at Gilmer Wood and just haven't pulled the trigger on some yet. Very nice looking stuff but certainly expensive.

Abi Parris
06-08-2011, 4:46 PM
I wouldn't run if you walked up to me with one of those boxes tucked under your arm! Ingrates! Ingrates, I tell ya. :)

Louis Reed
06-17-2011, 11:39 PM
Nice work Derek,
I've made a lot of boxes of all kinds. That detail for the sliding top is very nice, have not seen that design before. I like it so much I think I'm going to make one next week. Also that jig for squaring up a box for glue up is a winner.
I always look forward to your posts.

Art
In the Sierra Foothills

Peter Pedisich
06-18-2011, 12:31 AM
Derek, thanks very much for sharing. You have inspired myself and many others, and taught us much as well.

Pete

glenn bradley
06-18-2011, 7:06 AM
(does this happen to you - start one thing, then you need to do something else first, and something before that ...?!).

It surely does but, I try to consider that part of the fun :) very cool little feature in that retaining rail. I have used your posts to contribute to my first shooting board and the hotdog for my LV LAJ and will probably add the retaining rail when I make my donkey ear. the box material is quite beautiful. thanks as always for your posts on your splendid woodworking as well as the jig and method tips.