?'s on building a router table top

[John Kali]

Forgive me if this has been covered a million times already. I am pretty much clueless when it comes to building anything other than spearguns.

Anyway, what is the best material to use for the top? I would like to keep it under 200 for the cabinet and top. I was going to use mdf but is seems some people have had problems with warping. I did a little bit of research on here, and many say to laminate the bottom and sides...That's where I'm confused, do I just apply some sort of finish to the bottom and sides? I always thought lamination meant using some sort of bonding agent to join two or more layers together.

Also, I have read about support being needed to prevent cupping. I want my table to be about 30"x38". I will be using a incra PRL V2 lift with a bosch 1617. Exactly how much support is needed and what do I use for support?

The router table is the heart of my operation so I want to do this right!

Thanks John K

[Myk Rian]

I used 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF. Glue them together with the convex sides together )(.
Here is a write-up on the build. You might need to register to see the pics.
If you spend $75, you did good.
http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/5103-router-table-cabinet.html

[John Kali]

Thanks for the link!

[Don Morris]

I've built a router table top using 3/4" to 1" MDF (can't remember now which I used). Two layers is a must. Glue two together. Yes, put laminate on both side. Yes the laminates required spray on glue but not a terrible job. Lots of Youtube videos show you how. The sides were edge banded with a hardwood. I used maple. For that I just used good old Titebond. Last router table I built, I bought the top. Too many reasonably priced good tops available with the holes precisely cut and miter guides on them, etc. that the cost differential wasn't that great. But for sure, MDF, done by yourself with laminate and edge banded will be the cheapest.

[pat warner]

Keep it simple, stress the stuff under the top (http://patwarner.com/router_table.html). Thickness does not equal flatness. Moreover, the more you do to MDF, the more you bend it up.
Good MDF (Medite brand e.g.) is sanded to + or -.002" in thickness. That will never be realized after thickness gluing and cladding with laminate.
The top at the link is 10 years old and still functioning with daily use.

[Trent Shirley]

I built my table with two layers of 3/4" MDF as well and applied a laminate to both sides.
By laminate people are generally referring to the formica or similar material sheets that you can glue to the surface. Seals it up nice and keeps it smooth for material to slide across. Many people just use the MDF and wax it up good on both sides to seal it which works well also but is a little less durable than the laminate.
After laminating my top I added some hardwood edging to protect the ends of the laminate from getting chipped. Works very well and the two layers of MDF are nice and strong to support the router.
I have the PRLV2 lift with a 2 1/4hp Porter Cable and I see no sag. It is very easy for you to add a brace across the bottom of the table to prevent sag as well or build it in when you add a dust collection box around your router (assuming you do).
I used an aluminum plate from WoodPecker. My only regret is I wish I had gotten the one that uses magnalock rings rather than the twist in ones but not a big deal.

Learn from my mistake though. My first attempt building the table I glued and screwed the two layers of MDF together thinking it would help to hold it flat while the glue dried. In fact when the screw penetrated into the second layer of MDF it caused a dimple that pushed out against the second layer and the whole thing warped on me.
On my second attempt I just glued them, used cauls to hold them flat and clamped them down to the surface of my granite top table saw.
Screwing them together can work but you want to predrill into the other side. I do not think it is really necessary to use screws though.
I know some quality tops can be bought reasonably cheap but I doubt they will match the strength of two layers of 3/4" MDF. I also get to brag to everyone that I made it myself and it came out looking nice. I just screwed up a little trying to route the curved edges for the router plate so you can see a few insignificant errors. When I built the router extension for my table saw I bought the template to route the plate recess.

Have fun.

[John Kali]

Thanks for the great info everyone! If any of you feel like posting pictures of your tops and cabinets, feel free! I wont mind one bit :D

[Myk Rian]

Thickness does not equal flatness. Moreover, the more you do to MDF, the more you bend it up.
Which is why I suggested gluing the convex sides together )(. Doing that eliminates any bow or sag in the pieces and straightens them out flat. It's been 7 years and mine is as flat as the day I made it.

[Gene Waara]

I laminated two 3/4 pieces of baltic birch. It was easier to cut and rout for the Jessem lift. The bb is more costly but I hate the dust that the mdf kicks up - dc or not. I also use the 1617 and think it's a great unit.

[Galen Nagen]

Pat-what diameter is the hole on your router table? Where can you get that Medite mdf? Specialty place?

Thanks. Really like the concept of your router table.

GN

[Galen Nagen]

I found where I can get Medite MDF. Just would like to know how big the hole in your router top is.

Thanks

GN

[pat warner]

Biggest cutter I use = 1.875". Cutter hole = 2-1/8".
No panel cutters for me.

[Galen Nagen]

Many thanks. No panel cutters for me either. Too scary.

GN

[Mort Stevens]

Do a search for "Wally Kunkel" (Mr. Sawdust) - he wrote an article about building a radial arm saw top strengthened with steel bars... basically you take 2 pieces of MDF mill some slots in what will be the middle core to receive the steel - being mindful of the openings and miter slots you need. When I made my router table (based on the New Yankee Workshop design) I used three 3/16" by 3/4" straight steel bars and poured epoxy into the slots and inserted the steel bars after spreading wood glue on the MDF. I used screws in a pattern like the NYW table to clamp the 2 layers of MDF together. Then I also put plastic laminate on both the top and bottom surfaces. I''m glad I took the extra time to put the steel in the MDF, because the top is rock solid, and that was done ~5 years ago and it's still nice and flat and I expect it will be for the life of the router table.

It took me a while to find it, but, because a pictures worth a thousand words, here's the drawing I made when I did my top; http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/7864/66162695.gif

[Chris Parks]

I'm with Pat, clever design will win over multiple layers of MDF anytime. I think most people start out with the premise it must be pretty and impress everyone which is exactly the wrong place to start. Mine is a flat board slung over two saw horses, it gets taken outside to route as I can't be bothered to build a dedicated table because that leads to things like dust extraction and other issues. A pivoting fence on one screw and secured with a clamp does the other end. Total cost about $5.00 all up.