Low Profile Hollow Forms

[Gary Conklin]

What is the best way to approach low wide profile forms something in the say 2-3" high x 8-10 wide?

[Dick Wilson]

Gary, I have done several HF with your dimensions. These are the most difficult of all HF's to do. Getting all the way to the desired wall thickness with that big of a shoulder is problematic. I have used an old Sorby hook tool. I don't know if they even sell them any more. Some of the newer articulating hollowing tools would probably work. I would hollow out just like you do for a bottle. Work towards the bottom in sections leaving support.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Gary, you will find that your degree of difficulty when hollowing a low profile form is directly proportional to the size of the opening - the larger the opening, the easier the hollowing. Lots of folks use collars to reduce the size of the opening and that option may be something for you to consider.

Like Dick mentioned, the low profile forms are challenging because of limited room once inside. Because of that, I hollow to the bottom of the form first and then start cutting the sides. I find the extra room is needed for tool clearance and a place for shavings ... for 5 seconds!

Have fun with it!

[Jim Underwood]

You could make it a two piece hollow form like Brian McEvoy does.

http://www.onegoodturn.ca/

[John Keeton]

I had no idea who Brian McEvoy was until Jim's post, but I have done several of the "clamshell" turnings as I have called them. Pretty simple and very quick to do. Without a fairly large opening, it would be difficult to hollow a form of those dimensions.

[Cathy Schaewe]

Thanks for asking this question - I had been wondering the same thing. Can anyone who has done one in the 9-10" region advise how big a hole they needed?

[Wally Dickerman]

Back in the late 80's I found a small mill that was cutting highly figured maple blanks for a musical instrument maker. He was cutting them 3 inches thick and running the blanks through a kiln. When dry they were around 2-3/4 in. thick They didn't want spalted or redheart wood so I was getting some highly figured wood that had been rejected. How to make hollow forms out of often wide blanks but only 2-3/4 deep.

I had purchased a Stewart arm brace hook tool and these blanks were a challenge to hollow. Forget a narrow opening. Installing a collar was often a big help.

I suggest that you start with openings that are quite wide. I always rough turn a blank, wet or dry. If it's dry I re-turn it by working my way down from the opening so that you're always cutting into thick wood.

The pic is BL maple and holly. It's between 9 and 10 inches in dia and is 2-3/4 in deep. I'm not too happy with the holly collar but this piece was turned over 20 years ago. At the time, holly collars seemed to sell well for me.

[Steve bellinger]

Well as i'm no expert by any means, so take this with a grain salt. these 2 are about 81/2 x3 3/4 with a 1 1/4 on one and a 1 1/8 on the other. I've made them with a added collar and went down to 3/4 of a inch, but that's cheating as far as i'm concerned.:eek::D

[David E Keller]

I've got one I'll post in the next week or two. It's a dyed maple piece with a little figure. I'd bet it's 9 or 10 inches wide and about 2.5 tall. I did it through an opening that's about an inch and a half. I bent up some cold rolled steel for a few custom turning tools that helped me get to the shoulder. It's probably one of the most challenging pieces that I've hollowed. It's also not as pretty as the piece that Wally posted or the pieces Steve posted.

[John Hart]

Yeah, my successful pieces through a small opening have been problematic. And they beat me to death, and I am exhausted afterward (hmmm..:rolleyes:..I just started thinking about Ted's fly swatter thingies).....nevermind.:o

Well anyway...I finally decided that it was much more pleasurable to make the hole large enough for the tool rest, get it hollowed easily, and find a really cool piece of wood to top it off.

[Gary Conklin]

Thanks for the tips, these are the types of forms that got me wanting to turn. I also seem to stumble into figured woods in this range on a semi frequent basis so....I thought I might give them a shot.

[charlie knighton]

try Alan Lacer gallery

http://www.alanlacer.com/index.html

look at the oak oval vessel, if you can get anywhere near that , do not worry about anything else

i believe he had that one or something very near that at fisherville last october

[Jeff Nicol]

Gary, When I do these types of forms I try to do the smallest hole possible under 1" and closer to 1/2" if I can and if I ding up the hole I can open it up some and still have a small opening. Since I make all my tools I tweak them when I need to, to get the job done. The type of woods will lend themselves to hollowing through smaller holes and I do like Steve does by hollowing out the center to give me more room for shavings. They are definitely a challenge and a test of patience and concentration, because one bad move and you can destroy the piece in a second! I think the largest diameter one I have done is around 12"x2.5" thick with 1/4" wall thickness through a 7/8" opening. I think the most difficult part is the largest inside diameter and how much of a slope or rounding to the edge, the tighter the taper to the large diameter to me itis easier to get a even thickness than a wider rounder large dia. it is hard to get a normal caliper in to check things so I made a couple different ones to do the job. I have to do this since I don't have a captured system made yet, but some day I suppose I will get one done.

Have fun and don't let the failures get you down,

Jeff

[Jack Mincey]

I do several HF's like this and find that John Jordan's 3/4" #1 and #2 hook tools work quit well at hollowing them out through a 1" opening. One thing to remember when using a swan neck tool like these is to always have the bent portion of the tool past the tool rest or you will have a lot of problems with torque.
Turn Safe,
Jack

[John Beaver]

Can anyone who has done one in the 9-10" region advise how big a hole they needed?

I've done a couple in the 9 x 3 range with 1" - 1 1/2" openings. I use a small Sorby bent hollowing tool with a custom tip that I can make longer if necessary.

[Mark Levitski]

Like Jack Mincey, I too use Jordan's 3/4" hook to do this type of form, using an armbrace to hold it. Remember, if you want to just challenge your skills, then pushing the envelope re: hole size might be important to you. But if you are selling pieces, whether it is 2" or 1 1/8th will not matter or probably even be noticed by afficionados who are not turners. Too, Ellsworth and others have "been there, done that". I think that one will not be recognized by collectors by copying but by innovating. Again, to test your own skills and enjoy the process, go for it.

I think if you tackle a really squashed but wide form with a smallish opening you might as Jeff N. does need to make a more specialized tool for it, again like Ellsworth has done.

[curtis rosche]

take a look at some of my hollowform posts, i explained how i made mine with only a bowl gouge.