Advice sought for mirror framing

[Charlie McGuire]

I'm looking to frame some beveled glass mirrors. They are 1/4" thick and the largest is 30"x40", so there is some weight to them. I am planning on using 4/4 red oak and was thinking mitered corners. I'm looking for suggestions on design/milling and joinery for strength. I'm also interested in hanging methods. If possible, I would like the assembly to sit flat to the wall. Thanks. Charlie

[Ben Hatcher]

I love the look of mitered corners. The easiest way to strengthen them is to spline them using your table saw and an easy to make splining jig. Of course, this could be your chance to argue for the purchase of a Domino. If you're up for a challenge, check out the half lap miter joints which give the strenght of the half lap but the look of the miter.

As for mounting to the wall, I like using keyholes, either routed into the frame or the screw on version, for mirrors. I think that they are far too heavy to hang by a wire and small eye bolts.

[Charlie McGuire]

Good advice on the keyhole mounting - thanks. I have a biscuit joiner, but no domino. I'll look into the half-lap joint. That sounds pretty strong. Charlie

[Chris Tsutsui]

A mirror is fairly heavy and depending how much wood you have for the frame, there may not be that strong of a joint so I might want to add metal "L" brackets hidden behind the frame, or if necessary, recessed in the back of the wood frame against the wall.

[Victor Robinson]

I think Z Clips would work well for hanging.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10231

[Rod Sheridan]

For heavy frames like that I use M&T joints with the mortices in the stiles (vertical component)............Regards, Rod.

[Chris Padilla]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?42603-Mirror-Frame

I built one using a beveled mirror from a bathroom remodel a few years ago.

[johnny means]

Paint the back of the inside frame edge black so you wont see a reflection of the unfinished lumber around the mirrors edge.

[Charlie McGuire]

Paint the back of the inside frame edge black so you wont see a reflection of the unfinished lumber around the mirrors edge.

Hmm, good point ! Thanks !

[Lee Schierer]

The strongest joint you can ask for that gets you the look you want is a mitered half lap joint (http://www.woodsmith.com/magazine/extras/167/mitered-half-lap-joints/). They are not all that hard to do, though I do suggest a practice set first to get the hang of cutting them. They will be stronger than plain miters or miters with splines.

One thing to keep in mind with a beveled mirror is that you need to uniformly finish the rabbet the mirror sets in as it will be reflected by the mirror and easy to see. Any un-finished spots will jump right out at you when you look in the mirror.

Anoter option for mitered corners is a locking miter corner cut with your router and a locking miter bit.http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/public/ben93JOZlFt7Jr_29D0sLeDCLuGiqPwe90g7SeamhKFORbppV6 lxdrtZue4UnRoF2KYRV1JrJXTkhDGcGG5z92yKGCfXfWbIW224 I4j4G94Vy5zhDbh9C2bl5nSu2Co2cehxE6zRGX3D

[denis tuomey]

I made 2 last year for our large bathroom mirrors, the mirrors were already mounted on the wall with the metal clips that come around the edges. I used hard maple about 1.25" thick x 3" wide, the edges were done on the TS, from the outside edge up over to the inside I came up straight bout 1/2" then did a slight angle inward then a slight angle/slope down toward the inside edge. I cheated a lil and used Kreg jig n screws to fasten the corners, the holes must be done before cutting any angles, while everything is still flat. Then with the router cut a recess in the back side to fit over the clips holding the mirror, on one mirror I used double sided tape to press the frame onto the mirror, the other I was able to put keyholes in the frame and slide it over the mirror, sure made a difference on mirror apperance.

[Chris Fournier]

I'm looking to frame some beveled glass mirrors. They are 1/4" thick and the largest is 30"x40", so there is some weight to them. I am planning on using 4/4 red oak and was thinking mitered corners. I'm looking for suggestions on design/milling and joinery for strength. I'm also interested in hanging methods. If possible, I would like the assembly to sit flat to the wall. Thanks. Charlie

Splines are very strong, easy to machine and will be perfect for this application. I make a three piece set which I call my "Entrance suite" and one of the pieces is a mirror about 2/3 the size of yours. I use a routed keyhole or a mechanical keyhole. You are able to fine adjust the mounting to very flat on the wall which is very tidy.

I would say that beveled glass has a vintage appeal and that a mitred frame has a more modern look; my two cents from a design standpoint.

[David Prince]

Paint the back of the inside frame edge black so you wont see a reflection of the unfinished lumber around the mirrors edge.

Easier to make the frame, stain the frame (inside edge also),poly, then install the mirror in the frame. With this process there is no need to paint an unfinished edge.

I have made them using half lap joints with nails in the back side to reinforce.

[Charlie McGuire]

Lots of great suggestions - thanks ! Interesting that no one has mentioned dowels. I usually finish all sides of my projects. My time is cheap. I always figured it provided more consistent environmental control down the road. Maybe it doesn't matter, but I do it anyway.

[Chris Padilla]

Charlie,

I'm not sure if you looked at the link in my post but I have had ~20 lbs of mirror hanging off of two MDF casings glued with a #20 biscuit into poplar for almost 5 years now. Frankly, I'm amazed and I do check the mirror every once in a while to see how it's doing. Modern glues are definitely strong!

I always like to reinforce "picture frame joints" with something if I can and biscuits are usually the easiest for me.

I agree about finishing: if one can reach all sides, it is usually a good thing to do. However, with plywood, I don't worry as much. MDF: definitely a must!