I like tools - especially those made by the user.

[Brian Ashton]

So lets see what you've made.

I guess I'll have to put my money where my mouth is. So these are what i made a while back. Steel for the paring chisels was cut out and hardened professionally but everything else is made and shaped by hand.

[David Weaver]

Very nicely done!

[john brenton]

Wow, those are gorgeous. Now let's see you route the profile on that table by hand!!


So lets see what you've made.

I guess I'll have to put my money where my mouth is. So these are what i made a while back. Steel for the paring chisels was cut out and hardened professionally but everything else is made and shaped by hand.

[Tony Shea]

Wow those chisels look to be really well made. They almost have a Blue Spruce look to them. I'm assuming you have yourself some sort of milling machine. Well done!

[Jay Maiers]

Very nice Brian!

I've only made a couple of tools, and they all have a prison-esque look about them. Scrap metal, scrap wood, handles wrapped in tape, and they look like they were sharpened on a cinder block. They got the job done, but there's no way I'm posting a photo :D

[Bruce Page]

Beautifully done!
Great attention to detail.

[Jeff Wittrock]

Beautiful Chisels!
Can you post a tutorial?



I've made some planes. Nothing so beautiful, but they are useful.

[john brenton]

That's hillarious. Mine all look like something from somebodys nose...dirty, malformed and boogery. I made a marking knife and it looks like something from conan the barbarian. Its actually a sweet throwing mini dart. It'll stick in fence thrown from about thirty feet.


Very nice Brian!

I've only made a couple of tools, and they all have a prison-esque look about them. Scrap metal, scrap wood, handles wrapped in tape, and they look like they were sharpened on a cinder block. They got the job done, but there's no way I'm posting a photo :D

[Brian Ashton]

Beautiful Chisels!
Can you post a tutorial?



I've made some planes. Nothing so beautiful, but they are useful.

Sorry I didn't document the process.

I have already saved, into my inspiration and reference library, the pics of plane # 2, do you have any others of plane # 3 from different angles? I like your style.

[Jeff Wittrock]

Sorry I didn't document the process.
:(
I'm often guilty of the same thing.

Can you tell me what steel you used?
Did you start with something like 1/4" thick bar stock?
Those really are some nice looking chisels and I would love to try something like that someday.


... do you have any others of plane # 3 from different angles?

I took a few pictures of the small smoother as I made it here
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?144984-My-first-infill&highlight= (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?144984-My-first-infill&highlight=)

[Leigh Betsch]

Excellent Brian. I like them. Did you "machine" the metal or did you neander it with files and cinder blocks? I'd vote for machining, much more fun!

[Brian Ashton]

Thx for the compliments but come on guys throw them up and lets see. How else we gonna come up with ideas on what to make next.

Years of being on forums and I only just now figured out how to multi quote


Now let's see you route the profile on that table by hand!!

I have a semester break coming up and that's on the list of things to do, but I'll be using the router plane attached below that I made a few years back. That and a few chisels and other things that I'll work out when I get into it. I thought about throwing it on the lathe but that would be too easy :D. I don't do it for a living anymore so I enjoy the challenges of doing things the hard way.


Wow those chisels look to be really well made. They almost have a Blue Spruce look to them. I'm assuming you have yourself some sort of milling machine. Well done!

If you count a 12" disk mounted to a lathe and a 4" angle grinder as milling machines then yes I have a few :D.


I've only made a couple of tools, and they all have a prison-esque look about them. Scrap metal, scrap wood, handles wrapped in tape, and they look like they were sharpened on a cinder block. They got the job done, but there's no way I'm posting a photo :D

Why. I wasn't wanting a beauty contest I want to pinch your ideas :) Everyone has something worth looking at.


Excellent Brian. I like them. Did you "machine" the metal or did you neander it with files and cinder blocks? I'd vote for machining, much more fun!

The steel on the heavy bevel edge chisels is O1 and was cut and shaped with a 4" angle grinder and 12" disk sander. The paring chisels were made from M2 and came cut out and hardened and I did the cleaning, shaping, bevels and refining with the disk sander, angle grinder and my version of a bench grinder.

[Brian Ashton]

I've made some planes. Nothing so beautiful, but they are useful.

I couldn't put a finger on it but all the elements come together very well.

[Jerome Hanby]

That router plane looks almost too pretty to use.


Thx for the compliments but come on guys throw them up and lets see. How else we gonna come up with ideas on what to make next.

Years of being on forums and I only just now figured out how to multi quote



I have a semester break coming up and that's on the list of things to do, but I'll be using the router plane attached below that I made a few years back. That and a few chisels and other things that I'll work out when I get into it. I thought about throwing it on the lathe but that would be too easy :D. I don't do it for a living anymore so I enjoy the challenges of doing things the hard way.



If you count a 12" disk mounted to a lathe and a 4" angle grinder as milling machines then yes I have a few :D.



Why. I wasn't wanting a beauty contest I want to pinch your ideas :) Everyone has something worth looking at.



The steel on the heavy bevel edge chisels is O1 and was cut and shaped with a 4" angle grinder and 12" disk sander. The paring chisels were made from M2 and came cut out and hardened and I did the cleaning, shaping, bevels and refining with the disk sander, angle grinder and my version of a bench grinder.

[john brenton]

Dude...that is the prettiest router plane I've ever seen in my life. Wow, that is spectacular.



Thx for the compliments but come on guys throw them up and lets see. How else we gonna come up with ideas on what to make next.

Years of being on forums and I only just now figured out how to multi quote



I have a semester break coming up and that's on the list of things to do, but I'll be using the router plane attached below that I made a few years back. That and a few chisels and other things that I'll work out when I get into it. I thought about throwing it on the lathe but that would be too easy :D. I don't do it for a living anymore so I enjoy the challenges of doing things the hard way.

[David Young]

I started with some pretty wood, a couple chunks of brass: 1/2" round and 1/4 x 3/4" bar, then add some 1095 spring steel, stirr in a little sweat and shape with some imagination.

196724
196723

[Jeff Wittrock]

... but I'll be using the router plane attached below that I made a few years back.


Hey, that's one good looking router plane!

but what's the deal with the hedge hogs on the handles and screw head? :)

[Jeff Wittrock]

I started with some pretty wood, a couple chunks of brass: 1/2" round and 1/4 x 3/4" bar, then add some 1095 spring steel, stirr in a little sweat and shape with some imagination.

196724
196723

Nice Saw! This is shaping up to be a good thread.

[Jeff Wittrock]

A couple simple things... turning saw and marking gage.

[Brian Ashton]

I started with some pretty wood, a couple chunks of brass: 1/2" round and 1/4 x 3/4" bar, then add some 1095 spring steel, stirr in a little sweat and shape with some imagination.


196724
196723

Hi Dave

Very nice saws. There's one thing about making saws you can't bluff your way through them


A couple simple things... turning saw and marking gage.

Hi Jeff

I like the bow saw lines. How do the slender parts hold up under tension - to they flex much. For the marking gauge what did you use for the wheel?

[Harlan Barnhart]

So lets see what you've made.

Here's a marking gauge I made.
196803

[Jeff Wittrock]

Hi Jeff

I like the bow saw lines. How do the slender parts hold up under tension - to they flex much. For the marking gauge what did you use for the wheel?

Thanks Brian

So far so good on the turning saw. I can tension it up much more than my coping saw. I have to admit I fear for the day when I tension her up a little too much. I just have a hunch that she will let go all at once when she decides to come apart.

The marking gauge was just made from a 5/16" hex head bolt with the threaded section cut off. I just ground the hex head round and thinned it down to a sharp edge. Definitely not the steel of choice, but has held up so far.

[Brian Ashton]

Actually I thing that's a good idea for a quick and easy marking gauge. The steel should be good as long as it's not detempered when you ground it down.

[Andrew Gibson]

I have made a few tools. A few saw handles, a marking gauge, bow saw, the usual. lets see if I can find some pics.

[Derek Cohen]

Wait until George sees this thread!! His tools are simply amazing.

There is a similar threadgoing on the Ubeaut (Australian) forum, where I posted several tools. I have made so many over the years - partly because to meet a need and partly for a quick fix between a long furniture project. Here are a few ...

Jack plane..
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Newtote4.jpg

37" Jointer ..
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Finished1.jpg

Infill BU smoother ..
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/GalootSmootherII.jpg

Brace ..
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Brace.jpg

Marking knives and scratch awls (many!) ..
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Detailknives.jpg

Chip carving knives ..
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Chipcarvingknives.jpg

Bowsaw ...
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/1Bowsaw-1.jpg

Shooting boards (lots!) ..
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Rampedshootingboard.jpg

Joinery saw ...
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Tenonsawbothsides1.jpg


Better stop there. There are a lot more if anyone is still awake. :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

Good Grief!

(as Charlie Brown would say) :)

[Tony Shea]

Oh i am certainly still awake. In case you don't realize this Derek, most of us that wander in these neander forums are a bit of a tool junky. I personally should seek councelling some day but as of now I just can't get enough. So keep 'em coming, the more the merrier. Probably one of my favorite type of threads, I am always going through the one in the FAQ's section. And as Derek said, George may be here soon and absolutely kill this thread with his incredible work. Not that Dereks aren't in league of their own as well.

[Andrew Gibson]

I just made this one about an hour ago.
I am working on my second ukulele, a concert uke, and I needed something to route a groove for the roset. I deceded 2 thin strings would look quite nice.
Made from a piece of scraper, and piece of cherry, and a nail.
You can see the result of the test run in the first pic.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/handyandy3459/IMAG00861.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/handyandy3459/IMAG00871.jpg
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/handyandy3459/IMAG00881.jpg

[Roy Lindberry]

So lets see what you've made.

I guess I'll have to put my money where my mouth is. So these are what i made a while back. Steel for the paring chisels was cut out and hardened professionally but everything else is made and shaped by hand.

Well i haven't done anything quite that pretty, but I've made a few utilitarian tools.

This Mallet is a hickory head with a black Walnut handle
196846

And here is a carver's mallet I made out of a scrap piece of firewood, which was soft maple:
196855196856

And finally, here is my scratch stock:

196857196858

[george wilson]

I have been following this thread,but many of my tools are to be seen in the FAQ section,so I haven't posted pictures here. An interesting thread,indeed!!

Quite a nice bunch of saws,Andrew! Derek,you have inspired me to take an old Stanley and make an infill out of it. Last flea market,I got one,and am deciding what to do with it. Also,I want to make a plane like your wooden one with brass parts similar to what you have done. Maybe with a Norris type adjustment just for fun. Actually,I really like knocking my irons with a small brass hammer,but some of the adjusters look cool,and it's another opportunity to do some nice knurling with the microscope type knurls I have made.

Derek,you have almost made a "piano" low angle plane with your Stanley conversion. That is an interesting idea for me.

Many,many nice tools shown in this thread. I am having a lot of back trouble right now and needing more injections before I do much.

[Bruce Page]

George, you must have a surprise tool or two waiting in the wings!

[george wilson]

What I need to do is go back and take better pictures of some of my tools. I didn't use the tripod on some,and have made many bad,out of focus pictures of things like my hammers,riffler files,and other tools. I just have never really gotten into taking decent(if any) pictures of my work. Now I wish I had.

Maybe after I get better pictures made I'll post them. I also need to get my little automatic tuning peg lathe cleaned up for pictures. It was made from scratch,and did take several months to make.

There are so many nice tools shown in this thread,I'm getting inspired!!:)

[Tony Shea]

Watch out when George gets inspired.

I agree that the infill made out of a Stanley plane is quite interesting. Something that looks incredibly useful for my type of small scale work. Takes all the headache out of dovetailing or pinning a sole together and lapping it until your lapped out. That's the biggest issue I have with making an infill for myself, really am not set up for all the metal work that goes into dealling with the sole and then spending hours upon hours lapping out all the errant hammer blows. I actually have a #3 that really is not much use to me as I've robbed many of the parts.

[Harlan Barnhart]

I made these light duty clamps from maple and aluminium. The jaws have since been lined with cork protect the work.
196872

I made this screw driver brace because I saw Bridge City Tools made one and I thought it looked handy. It's very useful for a small number of screws. If you have a lot to drive, a cordless driver is a better option.
196873

I re-handled these diston back saws because the original handles were boxy and uncomfortable.
196874

[george wilson]

Harlan,I have a couple dozen of those cam clamps that I made for guitar making. They are nearly identical to yours. I put the cams on the top instead of the bottom. They have been pretty much supplanted by the plastic Irwin type clamps. The plastic ones are lighter when you have dozens of them clamped around a guitar body in a mold.

Those are nice saw handles.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Harlan

One of the best things you can do is dedicate a brace to a countersink. The slow speed allows great control.

And I agree with George, those saw handles are terrific. The backsaw I posted was the first I built several years ago, and not nearly as nice as yours, but what is in common is the rounded profile. I dislike handle sides that are square, and you have done an excellent job in creating smooth transitions.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[george wilson]

You wouldn't like my handles,then,Derek. I think it is better sculpture to have defined flat areas like Gibson has shown. Harlan's handles do have good form,though. His horns are just about ideal length,also. Some like their handles rounded,though,including those good German makers who post here(senior moment!)

[Derek Cohen]

Heh George .. it is just an aesthetic thing. You may recall the comparison I made between the LN and IT dovetails saws? The LN has a slightly larger handle and is flatter on the sides. The IT looks nicer with the greater rounded edges. But the size of the LN counts for me and is the more comfortable to use.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/Father%20and%20Son%20%20Independence%20Tools%20and %20LieNielsen%20saws_html_1151aa42.jpgIT at left, LN at right
Regards from Perth
Derek

[george wilson]

Of course it is an aesthetic thing. Aesthetics is what it is all about when you get the functional aspect properly done.

[Leigh Betsch]

A couple of my favorites. The Mesquite block and transitional are very nice planes to use and are a few of my main users. I have since replaced the hammer face with Delrin. The shoulder plane is getting quite scratched up from use and I should have inserted the mouth but it is very functional as it is.

[Harlan Barnhart]

Harlan,I have a couple dozen of those cam clamps that I made for guitar making. They are nearly identical to yours. I put the cams on the top instead of the bottom.
That makes more sense. Once these are clamped, they do not rest well on a work surface. I should have done more research first.


Those are nice saw handles.
Thank you. I based the shape from a small, open handled saw which fit my hand really well. I adjusted the "hang" angle to match the original handles because I thought that design might be more suited for this type of saw.

[Harlan Barnhart]

Hi Harlan

One of the best things you can do is dedicate a brace to a countersink. The slow speed allows great control.

I may have to try that. I have a countersink mounted in a large Yankee driver that I really like. It can be used with the spiral action for initial speed and then in the locked mode for accuracy.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Very nice Brian!

I've only made a couple of tools, and they all have a prison-esque look about them. Scrap metal, scrap wood, handles wrapped in tape, and they look like they were sharpened on a cinder block. They got the job done, but there's no way I'm posting a photo :D
Lol! Jay I've got a few of these myself :o:eek:

[Brian Ashton]

A couple of my favorites. The Mesquite block and transitional are very nice planes to use and are a few of my main users. I have since replaced the hammer face with Delrin. The shoulder plane is getting quite scratched up from use and I should have inserted the mouth but it is very functional as it is.

I like that little hammer. Do you have more picks and details?

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Leigh -

Is the plane in the back of that second photo a high angle plane made with the guts of a transistional? Or are the metal parts just recessed so I'm not seeing more of them? Or am I totally mistaken as to what's going on there?

[Leigh Betsch]

Yeah, Joshua it's a transitional that I reworked into a high angle Jack.
It works great, the mesquite is heavy and I'd say it's my favorite plane although the little mesquite block plane gets a lot of use also. I posted a thread about it earlier I think this link will work http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?157436-High-Angle-Jack&highlight

Brian I also did a post about the hammer. It's a bit light, if I make another I'll make the head thicker to add some weight. But it is still my main plane adjuster. I think this link will work http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?135114-Small-Brass-Hammer-I-Made&highlight=

[Brian Ashton]

The chatters good but come on folks givem up! Again this ain't a beauty contest its a sharing of ideas and projects.

[Derek Cohen]

OK Brian, here are a few more ..

Another brace set ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Jarrahbrace1.jpg

Shall we include converted tools, such as these Sabatier knives I rehandled ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Knivesfinished2.jpg

.. and then built this knife block ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Knifeblock1.jpg

Router plane/Old Woman's Tooth (OWT) ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/routerplane.jpg

Cutting gauge with reversible fence ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Cuttinggauge.jpg

Large marking knife with Japanese blade ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Largemarkingknife.jpg

Is a kit permitted? Small smoother from Ron Brese ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/aTheBreseSmallSmootherKit.jpg

Mortice chisels (using HSS) ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Chisels2.jpg

Re-handled (long for paring) and reground (shoulders) Stanley 750 set ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Chisels4.jpg

Chamfer plane ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Chamferplane-1.jpg

There are more, but I hear snoring.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jeff Wittrock]

Shall we include converted tools, such as these Sabatier knives I rehandled ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Knivesfinished2.jpg


All beautiful things Derek, but I really like those knives!

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Any reason you haven't reground the bolster on the top knife in that pick? seems a little awkward!

[Brian Ashton]

Derek, good onya keep em coming...


That marking gauge, do you have any pick on how you made it? The blade holding mechanism looks interesting.

[Brian Ashton]

I guess I better throw some more up myself. Anything to take my mind off studying for exams...

The pics attached are of my interpretation of a flush trimmer somewhat inspired by the Bridge City one, only I don't like its modern style... The more crude one came about one night at my shop with nothing much to do. It was made from an old chisel that was welded to a piece of stainless steel and the other bits turned and added over the night as I progressed. Like most things I make there is no plan just ignorance and a bit of head scratching.

To keep the chisel from over heating it was put in a water bath so that only the very top surface was dry and then the SS shaft welded on. It worked very well in that only a very small part around the SS shaft turned blue.

The other picture is what had emerged after a few months and a number of revisions.

I worked at a shop at that time were as long as the price was right (about $50 each) all the other woodworkers gobbled up what ever I made. Which meant I could keep on playing on weekends with the ideas and not have a bunch of in between versions laying around. Mondays at work were like having a bunch of kids waiting for me to dump out a bag full of candy on the bench and they would scramble to get the ones they wanted.

I like things to have multiple purposes so the final version has removable handles so it can be used in a variety of configurations or with both hands if needed... Materials are O1, brass, coco bolo, stainless steel. I purposely didn't temper the O1 back so that it's extremely hard and cuts through glue really well without going dull quickly - just have to be careful not to chip the edge.

[john davey]

Hi Derek, I didn't see a writeup for the Chamfer plane on your web site??? Is this a new tool? How do you like the results from it as it seems like a easy way to make good on an old plane blade I replaced with a Hock. Thanks John...

[Derek Cohen]

Hi John

I designed and built this several years ago. It gets used every now-and-then. If I simply want a chamfer, then I will use a block plane. However, if the edge is decorative, then out comes this plane to create perfect bevels.

I thought it was on the website, but obviously not.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Roy Lindberry]

OK Brian, here are a few more ..

Another brace set ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Jarrahbrace1.jpg

Shall we include converted tools, such as these Sabatier knives I rehandled ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Knivesfinished2.jpg

.. and then built this knife block ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Knifeblock1.jpg

Router plane/Old Woman's Tooth (OWT) ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/routerplane.jpg

Cutting gauge with reversible fence ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Cuttinggauge.jpg

Large marking knife with Japanese blade ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Largemarkingknife.jpg

Is a kit permitted? Small smoother from Ron Brese ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/aTheBreseSmallSmootherKit.jpg

Mortice chisels (using HSS) ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Chisels2.jpg

Re-handled (long for paring) and reground (shoulders) Stanley 750 set ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Chisels4.jpg

Chamfer plane ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Chamferplane-1.jpg

There are more, but I hear snoring.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

I've been thinking about making a router plane. Did you buy the iron somewhere, or did you make it yourself? If you made it, how did bend it and assure that it is parallel to the sole? Or does it even have to be perfectly parallel?

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Roy

I used a hard Allen/Hex key. Just ground a bevel and a relief on the back.

Details here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/OldWoman%27sTooth.html

My recommendation is to instead just buy the blade from Lee Valley. They have a range out now that starts around 1/8" for their Large router plane. I have just bought the 3 new ones to add to my existing bunch. I plan to drill out the OWT to use these. It will make life a lot simpler.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Ken Kimbrell]

Lately I've been trying to improve my skills a bit so as to move up a little from the 'framing hammer' style of work. There's nothing wrong with that kind of work of course, but before making something for SWMBO that she would be willing to display on her dining room table my craftsmanship will need to be refined somewhat.

So, what better way go gain skill then to make your own tools.
BTW... these pictures look OK, but a closer inspection would reveal that the skill level still needs a little more practice. :cool:

197366
You can see more pictures and some details of this marking knife build on my site, including my close encounter with an X-Acto knife! Building a Marking Knife (http://www.ourfamilyforum.org/FamilyForum/index.php?topic=2831.0)

And, a couple of hammers. (http://www.ourfamilyforum.org/FamilyForum/index.php?topic=2820.0)
197367

[Jim Neeley]

Very nice work folks.. and I really enjoy this type of post. Very inspirational!! :)

[Brian Ashton]

Lately I've been trying to improve my skills a bit so as to move up a little from the 'framing hammer' style of work. There's nothing wrong with that kind of work of course, but before making something for SWMBO that she would be willing to display on her dining room table my craftsmanship will need to be refined somewhat.

So, what better way go gain skill then to make your own tools.
BTW... these pictures look OK, but a closer inspection would reveal that the skill level still needs a little more practice. :cool:

197366
You can see more pictures and some details of this marking knife build on my site, including my close encounter with an X-Acto knife! Building a Marking Knife (http://www.ourfamilyforum.org/FamilyForum/index.php?topic=2831.0)

And, a couple of hammers. (http://www.ourfamilyforum.org/FamilyForum/index.php?topic=2820.0)
197367

Thats a nice little knife.

[Ken Kimbrell]

Thanks Brian.

[Brian Ashton]

OK got to keep the momentum going. There's got to me a lot more tools out there.

One of the pics of some trammels and the rods I made. The other pics are of some carving chisels I needed. Decided to use some of the A2 1/4" rod I have kicking around. Used a 4" angle grinder to grind out the flutes... First used a 1/16" cut off wheel to cut a thin channel and then chased it up with a heavy wheel shaped with a diamond to shape the v and u channels. Over all worked pretty good. Because they will never be used with a mallet there was no need to grind a shoulder. The skew needs more tweaking. The bevels are too acute (if that's the right word). The other pointy one is kind of a grubber tool that I use to clean up bits of carvings when a chisel is too much and a rasp or file would leave too harsh a surface.

[Gerry Harp]

I have been in the back ground and have been thankfull for all the good post and the sharing of tips and useful infomation on hand tools and how to make them. Here are a few I have made sinse I started it has become a great way to relax:)
197684197683

[Derek Cohen]

Gerry, that's one solid looking infill - details are wanted.

And Brian, you are persistent! :)

Here are a few more for now ..

One I call a kerf chisel:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Chisels/Dovetailkerfer.jpg

Link for article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/KerfChisel.html

A fishtail chisel for half-blind dovetails:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Chisels/Dovetailchisel1.jpg

Lots and lots of marking knives and scratch awls:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/MarkingknivesAug08.jpg

My favourite dovetail marker (this was a joke - a dovetailed dovetail marker):

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Dovetailsaddlesquare3.jpg

Simple looking (but quite complex) dovetail marker sets (I made a bunch of these as a once-off:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Dovetailmarkersinbrass_html_48e46b7.jpg

Article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Dovetailmarkersinbrass.html

Large Japanese marking knife, along with a mini version for my son:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/FatherandSon1.jpg

Here is another view of one of the braces I made, the focus here on the toolbox:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Competition%20brace%20for%20Wood%20Central%202008_ html_6194fb28.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Competition%20brace%20for%20Wood%20Central%202008_ html_m54af92d7.jpg

The drawer contains drill bits for the brace as well as drivers shared between the brace and screwdriver holder.

I have a website with a chapter dedicated to shop made tools: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/index.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Ashton]

And Brian, you are persistent! :)

Here are a few more for now ..



I'm like a squirrel. I'm gathering little nuggets of information for the winter break.

[Tony Shea]

Gary,

Very nice infill you have there. It is a beast. Would love to know more about it, steps you took in making it etc.

Derek,
That last style of dovetail maker you show actually just showed up in the latest FWW magazine. All I could think of was your article on making it and how FWW comes accross as it being a very simple tool to make. Which is probably not too hard to make but the precision in the square side and angles need to be right on Im sure. Any variance in the square edge could become dissasterous when time comes to put the DT's together.

Love this thread.

[Andrew Howe]

Those planes are quite impressive!

Nice job!

Beautiful Chisels!
Can you post a tutorial?



I've made some planes. Nothing so beautiful, but they are useful.

[Brian Millspaw]

Here are some of mine.

First up carvers mallets:
197767
The big one has an elm burl head and a white oak handle, it's very heavy and only for large work. The other one is my everyday user, made from jatoba. I destroyed a hard maple mallet every year until I made this one and after 8 years of heavy use, you can see there is not much damage.

This is 55 deg smoother
197768
Made from white oak with a brass insert in the mouth

A 50 deg razee plane
197769
This is a kind of utility plane for hardwoods. It's cherry with a maple handle and a hornbeam sole.

These are some chairmaking tools
197771
A froe made from an annealed file welded to a piece of pipe. A chair devil (scraper) in hard maple and my travisher made from mahogany.

The bottom of the travisher
197770
and my spokeshave in hard maple with deer antler thumbscrews

A marking knife
197772
and my favorite tool i've made : an english style marking gauge. This ebony and brass gauge has a unique mechanism that allows a flush set lock screw.

Thanks for looking
-Brian

[Trevor Walsh]

Derek, I like the HSS mortise chisels, what are their widths?

I recent windfall allowed me to find an appropriately sized solid carbide drill, which I used to drill holes in the hard saw plates I've been trying to finish for some time now.


197777


The top saw was built from a Gramercy rip carcass saw kit, a miraculous find on eBay. The panel saw is a "New" Stanley that once doubled as a square, and had amazing resharpen-able teeth! What an innovation huh? I made an acceptable handle for it and used some Atkins saw nuts. It cuts okay, I need to sharpen it to rid it of the factory tooth shape.

The bottom two saws are Wentzloff Shop Notes kits. I have a bit of work to do to finish them, I over zealously stuck the back on the xcut before bothering to figure out how I was going to attach it, and realized I need to trim a section. I was smarter with the dovetail, I did my trimming first and should be able to get that together today.

[Jeff Wittrock]

Just finished a small try square.

[Gerry Harp]

Thanks for the comments on the infill. The sides are made from 6mm/380 brass was good to cut and mill not at all good to peen as it work hardens, this means that 2 blows with the hammer and it chips of. The sole is 6mm mild steel, this was easier to peen.I used only files and a hacksaw to cut and then file the dovetails and pins, on the sole is the double dovetails that are possible in steel. I got the instruction from Jim Kingshots book and made some changes to the shape. Have since seen found the web page by Jim Yele and am in the process of making one a bit longer. The timber infill is Tasmanian Blackwood with a shelac finish. I hope this is helpful. Will take more photos of the next plane. Cheers Gerry

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, I like the HSS mortise chisels, what are their widths?

1/4" and 3/8"

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Ashton]

Did I mention... I like tools.

Just to keep it alive

Another take on a bowsaw. Everything's hand made including the blade holder doohickies

[Chris Griggs]

This is one of the coolest threads I've seen on the Creek. I've been contemplating making a set of saws for a while now, and I think this thread has pushed me over the edge. I also really must get around to making a krenov plane one of these days as well.

Anyway, keep the pics coming folks.... Very inspiring!

[Trevor Walsh]

Oh yea! Here is my Krenovian plane.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Great thread! Here are some of mine:

Marking gauge:
198366198367

Mallet:
198368198369

Krenov style plane:
198370198371

Parting tool/small skew chisel:
198372198373

More to follow.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Plane adjusting mallet:
198374198375

Bowsaw (hardware from Tools For Working Wood):
198376198377198378

Keep 'em coming!
Salem

[Derek Cohen]

Those are beautiful, Salem. Your tools have a gentle quality to them. What wood are you using?

A few more ...

One of the easier tools to make is a handle for a chisel. A little more interesting is to regrind the slab sides of the blade (this one was an old Stanley/Marples/Irwin) into something you would enjoy using on dovetails. This one was for a friend ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/LowTechHeatTreating_html_2aa409b8.jpg


Another jointer. This one is 30", Jarrah, and uses a 2" wide Hock blade. It is light and so comfortable to use. Ideal for jointing edges.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/My%20planes/Jointer.jpg


Make your own lever caps and lever cap screws without machinery: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Making%20Lever%20Caps%20and%20Lever%20Cap%20Screws %20in%20the%20Backyard.html

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Making%20Lever%20Caps%20and%20Lever%20Cap%20Screws %20in%20the%20Backyard_html_m6d6e8ce4.jpg


And a small smoother, inspired by a design of Steve Knight, and using one of the handmade 1/4" thick Chinese Galoot Tools laminated blade he sent me.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/Knightish%20smoother/Knight2.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/Knightish%20smoother/Knight3.jpg


Of course there are the obligatory hammers. This one is brass and ebony for adjusting planes.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Planemallet4.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Ebonyonbrassmallet.jpg

A
nd this one is a gennou (no, I did not make the head. That is by a famous maker, Tenryuu. All I did was design and shape the handle...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Cover.jpg


Last one for now, a stair saw made several years ago..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Stairsawrightside-1.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Thanks Derek!
My woods are mostly scrap. Many of these tools were made out of the offcurs from a stair company :).

By the way I love the handle on your stair saw!
Salem

[Steve LaFara]

[QUOTE=Brian Ashton;1714268]
I'll be using the router plane attached below that I made a few years back. QUOTE]

Can you share some more pics and details about the router plane? Simply gorgeous!

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=196683&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1306995524

[Deane Allinson]

A simple shop made marking gauge. Ebony & persimmon. Fine adjustment is tapping the rear on the bench top.
Deane

[Brian Ashton]

There has been a bit of interest in the router plane so I am posting some pictures for those interested to get an idea of how it was made. Dimensions, should be able to extrapolate from the 4th picture that has a ruler. When I made it I was extremely loose on dimensions.

Materials are cocobolo, brass and stainless steel.

All hand made in that the lathe was a wood lathe and the cutting and filing was all done free hand, i.e. no milling machines or specialized tools to work the metals.

[Brian Ashton]

More detailed pics of the various parts.

I guess the most exotic piece of equipment i have to make the parts was a independent 4 jaw chuck which allowed me to do the offset turning of the tool holder post and hold the locking ring while it was turned to a basic shape. The V channel was filed with a square file until it and the base where in alignment. I just eye balled it for being reasonably true. As this is a router plane there wasn't a need for 100% precision - it's close enough at a about a degree out. The post doesn't need to be offset turned but just make sure you draw it out first to make sure everything will fill together well.

The locking ring was cut out and filed to shape after I turned it to a basic outside shape of a tear drop. It started out as a 1 1/2 x 1/2" piece of flat bar - turns dead easy with basic wood turning tools. There is no reason that it would need to be turned first except if you want the turned bit on the end where the locking screw sits. Other than that you can easily shape one by hand.The locking knob was a piece of 1" hex brass rod.

The router base picture gives the basic dimensions... I jigged up a piece of plywood that was mounted on a faceplate that allowed me to mount the base on the lathe to offset turn the areas where the handles sit and drill the dowel holes.

Next two pics give an idea of how they all went together...

And the final pic gives some basic dimensions of the handles.

Now get cracking and make one for yourself!

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Thanks for posting the detailed pictures. I can understand putting this kind of effort into a router plane as it is one of my favorite tools. But yours is the best looking I have seen!
Salem

[george wilson]

Brian,a beautiful router. It really has the look of a tool made by a good craftsman 100+ years ago. If you do not mind a little advice: countersunk screws should always be flush with the surface. I made that same mistake many years ago. And,could you possibly find any slotted screws to use instead of those square drive ones? Otherwise,a GREAT piece of work. I'd gladly knurl that hex bolt for you for free,with an antique type convex knurl,except you are a long way off. I'd have to turn it round,though. If you send it to me with return postage I'll do it for free.

You have a good sense of design.

Needless to say,Derek has,too,and posts many very nice tools. There are MANY nice tools posted in this interesting and useful,inspirational thread. Good work,all.

[Tony Shea]

Awesome router. I agree in that a router plane is def my favorite tool in my shop. Everytime I use it for something I am amazed at how well it does its' job. It is often taken for granted how important flat parallel surfaces are in woodworking. Such as tenons, just running a shoulder or rabbet plane over the face does not garuntee a parallel surface and can throw your peice out of true with the connecting peice.

Very nice job and very good layout for others to see how it was built.

[Jeff Wittrock]

Really gorgeous router plane Brian.

I am curious about the blades. In the photo showing the three blades, It looks like the first two are single piece construction, but the third looks like it is two piece with the blade attached to the shaft with a screw. Do you find the two piece works as well as the other two? I ask because I have been thinking of making a router plane, and I was wondering whether to make a two piece blade as you show, or if I would be better off making or buying a single piece OWT.

Thanks for the additional photos. I love threads that show this kind of detail.

-Jeff

[Deane Allinson]

Shop made Ebony marking gague with a captive persimmon key. I do the fine adjustment by tapping the end on the bench top while pressing the but of the key with my thumb. Low tech.
Deane

[Brian Ashton]

Shop made Ebony marking gague with a captive persimmon key. I do the fine adjustment by tapping the end on the bench top while pressing the but of the key with my thumb. Low tech.
Deane

I like it! simple but yet elegant.

[Brian Ashton]

Brian,a beautiful router. It really has the look of a tool made by a good craftsman 100+ years ago. If you do not mind a little advice: countersunk screws should always be flush with the surface. I made that same mistake many years ago. And,could you possibly find any slotted screws to use instead of those square drive ones? Otherwise,a GREAT piece of work. I'd gladly knurl that hex bolt for you for free,with an antique type convex knurl,except you are a long way off. I'd have to turn it round,though. If you send it to me with return postage I'll do it for free.

You have a good sense of design.



Thx George!

I know what you're saying about the counter sinking... I drilled them by hand and it was pretty hit and miss on getting them just right or not, so I over did it on them to try and hide the variation in depth. In hind site I should have left them all proud and lapped them flat along with the base plate - that'll be version 2.3s variation. Also thought about the idea of a more traditional looking screw but slotted in stainless in Australia are as rare as hens teeth. Where I was living at the time, about 200 yards from the ocean, tools rust and tarnish at alarming rates so I was leaning towards salt resistant metals as much as possible. The paring chisels in the first post have marine grade aluminum ferrules for that reason. Even brass gets an incredibly thick coating of tarnish on it in no time from all the salt and humidity. When Lee Valley started making the corrosion resistant planes that was a god send for us living near the beach.

I'll take you up on your offer. PM me your address and I'll send it to you. I'll have to dig around my house for all the old US money I have kicking around - don't think your bank would take aussie plastic "play" money for the return postage.

[Steve LaFara]

Thanks for posting the details! Awesome job and very inspiring. I have a piece of Cocobol that would be perfect for a project like this. I just got my first router plane, a type 10 #271 with all the parts, so I have a bit of learning first, but I already see some areas that could use improvement.

Could you explain a little about how you turned the clamping ring if it started as a flat blank?

[george wilson]

Brian,I have a load of NOS 1950's slotted regular steel screws,but only in the larger sizes,and some are a little brown in places. A little soak in vinegar and soak in baking soda would clean them up. I do have some in ABOUT a #12-14 in 3/4" length I could include with your knurled part. Just send return postage to Australia(should be only about $500.00:):):)). Joking of course,but we had an American friend who moved to Australia,and we always had to send him things he could not get there. Pop Tarts is one thing that comes to mind. But,the postage was killer,needless to say,worth more than the stuff we sent him,for sure.

Like others I knew,he was back in 2 years.

[David Weaver]

Pop Tarts is one thing that comes to mind.

Why would he need pop tarts when he could have vegemite toast? :)

[george wilson]

I have no idea,just his preference. I can't recall how much money we wasted sending him stuff. My wife was doing it(I HATE sending packages),so I don't know what all she sent. They had become friends while working together. The guy was no threat,don't get the wrong idea. It was like he was in a war,and needed Care packages!:) He was from the Book Bindery in Wmsbg.,where my wife first worked. He found a job in a bindery in Sydney.His little apartment was all pre decorated in orange,with orange shag carpeting. This was in the 80's. He had excellent taste,and hated the place. I had made him a plough plane and press that he could knock down. I also made him a cased set of rolls for rolling decorative lines into bindings,with matching pallets(shorter tools for putting lines into the backs of books) and even some Farthing wheels(little rolls) You guys may have to google these terms. So,he was reasonably well equipped,along with his own tools.

He used to go to Belize and hunt butterflies(he had a huge collection,beautifully mounted) He asked me to make him a long handle for his net. I made him one with brass screw together joints while he waited. It must have been 20' long,but took down to 4' lengths for travel. The official there was very gruff and unhelpful,but he always managed to get a license out of the guy. My wife,who didn't like the idea of him killing butterflies,gave him grief over his bottle of "relaxing fluid "(chloroform),because it was really killing fluid:))

[Brian Ashton]

All right last one I have to keep this thread rolling...

These are corner chisels I've made over the years. They look fairly complex to make but they're actually very easy to pull off with only hand tools.

To cut the flute out I used a skill saw with the thinnest and smallest diameter blade I could find. Screwed a ply base to the skill saw and then pushed (more like burned) my way through it to have a nice zero clearance base to support the square 01 tool steel. Clamped a fence to the skill saw so the chisel sides would be about 1/8" thick and then slowly pushed it through till hit hit a stop clamped to the back of the skill saw base... As the cut off wheel wears down I just lift it a bit more till I get a nice even depth a little more than an 1/8" away from the top of the steel blank... Switch the fence to the other side of the blade and repeat. Once you break through to the other cut the the waste piece should be very easy to pull away from the chisel blank. To clean up the flute I gently with light pressure run the flute along a freshly tuned and squared grinding wheel. I have a grinder that allows me to get down to 0 rpm so it's much easier than using a regular grinder but still possible. I then file a bevel on the chisel before I harden and temper back. If done after it's much harder to do and get into the corner. To make the tang I mount it in the wood lathe and knock the corners off with an angle grinder. Then turn the lathe on to slow speed and gently shape it with the angle grinder and files. Obviously it would be better to use a metal lathe but I don't have one or plan to buy one... It will take a bit longer but there is no need for a lathe if you don't have one, the flute doesn't need to be perfect.

Pics attached show a finished chisel, a good look at the flute and me hardening one with a tiger torch. I find propane is great, at least for me it is. I find all I have to do to harden 01 is let them get as hot as the propane flame will get them; hold them there for a couple minutes and then quench in oil (I don't dip the tang and about 1/2" of the chisel to keep those areas from hardening). It's been a few years now since I made the last one so I don't remember the tempering temp in the oven... but because they're only an 1/8 inch thick don't leave them in for long. You'll need to temper them back to a point where you can file them without trashing the file too much. There's no other easy way to tune the bevel when they need sharpening, a grinder just butchers them. Also you can see that I don't harden the last inch and tang as I prefer to leave this area soft so it's a bit more durable when abused. The flute black because I don't bother trying to clean out the carbonization of the oil after hardening - I like the look.

The ferrule is totally enclosed and butts up to the chisel shoulders so the chisel can handle a bit of a thumping without burying the chisel into the handle.

Anyways the rest is pretty basic so what are you waiting for? Get on with it and make one.

If you're having trouble making one don't hesitate to pop on by and we can crank a few out at my place :D - shouldn't take more than an afternoon and a few beers... Now that I think of it... if anyone is planning a trip down to the sun burnt country do drop me a note and I'm sure I can at least give you a bed for a few days.

[Trevor Walsh]

Here is a dovetail marker in ebony and brass, partway through an english layout square in sapele, and a Charles Buck chisel I reground and turned a handle for out of padauk. The chisel has become my favorite low angle pairing tool.