Architectural Models

[Larry Folk]

I thought that I would post a work in progress.
Since I am an architect one of the many reasons for getting the laser was to make architectural models. I started this test project with one of my existing designs that I had done for a local builder. I took my 2d cadd files and exported them to SketchUp to create a 3d model. I did this to create all of the parts that I would need to cut the model out. With the 3d file I was able to make notches and tabs on each piece so the model could be snapped together. After working everything out I exported a 2d dwg file to Corel for the laser. All I had to do was to nest the parts and cut.
This model is made from 1/8" baltic birch plywood for the structure and 1/8" acrylic for the windows. I am using .024 thick "PloyBak" that I have 3d engraved on to create siding, roofing and stone. The model scale is 1/4"=1'-0".
I am interested if anyone else is doing this and if they have any tips or tricks of the trade.

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[Dean Fowell]

Larry,

First thing that's awesome nicely done I have not made a model yet but will be in a few weeks, I will need tips from you.

[Dee Gallo]

Wow, I've only made models with foamboard and paint - wood looks great! Can't wait to see the finished product, with siding, roofing and stone - ought to be killer!

Keep us posted, Larry!

Hi to Judy, dee

[Sotos Patistas]

I like your model, nice work. Yes, slot and tab is the way to go.

I've done a couple of buildings, both quite different and employed quite different methods and materials. Happy to trade info and techniques. right now I'm working on the second of two topo/architectural models for the Army. The scale on those is 1" = 100'. 25' tall buildings are 1/4" tall. I often have to make the determination that an object or structure is simply TSTM (too small to model).
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http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/misc/pencil.png

[Dan Hintz]

Sotos... best scale buildings I've ever seen. Kudos! Can't remember names, but several on here do scale railroad work... very cool.

[Rodne Gold]

I have made many arch models , some really big (2,5m x 1.8m),mostly for developers who are selling units in big buy off plan developments. Also done quite a few for film sets. Some customers demand uber realism and some want more a stylised rendition (mainly the landscape aspects)
I use many materials , but buildings are mainly done in 1-3mm cast acrylic and are glued and painted , but you have to be creative and use whatever you have at hand to represent items well , for eq a terracotta tile room we would do in red paper and laser the patterns.
What has made our modeling extremely effactive is our Roland print and cut machine , it prints on vinyl and other substrates and then die cuts to shape. It enables extreme realism on models , for eg we would print a reflection of the sky and clouds for windows and then cut and apply that to the buildings windows.
In General , I use autocad files for the cutting , either directly from Acad or imported into corel.
it can take a long time to do a model , we had one that cost the customer over $50k and took almost 2 months to complete (it was a very lifelike multi hi rise building model for a developer)

[Rangarajan Saravana kumar]

Really awesome to see the pics



Regards,
saravanakumar

[Martin Boekers]

Do a search for David Fairfield (I believe that's who it is) He has some amazing models.

Nice work by the way, it's always nice to see what others create with the laser!


Marty

[Mike Null]

Larry

Oil board makes an excellent material for achitectural modeling. It cuts like butter and will take a paint finish. It's about .020" thick.

Excellent work by you and Sotos.

[David Fairfield]

Thanks Marty.

Yeah, the laser is ideal for architectural modeling, especially since real world architecture tends to be constructed from flat materials. I also use 3d engraving on polybak for shingles, trim etc.

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[Larry Bratton]

Thanks Marty.

Yeah, the laser is ideal for architectural modeling, especially since real world architecture tends to be constructed from flat materials. I also use 3d engraving on polybak for shingles, trim etc.

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David...that is KILLER! Drop dead gorgeous! You tha man!

[Martin Boekers]

And a giant hand comes out of nowhere............ :-)

[Dan Hintz]

David,

Out of curiosity, what price range would something like that be in? Does it come pre-finished and all you do is assemble?

[Dee Gallo]

Once again, David blows my mind!

[Sotos Patistas]

David,

Amazing work, I've seen some of your scenes before. Truly in a class by itself.

Sotos

[David Fairfield]

And a giant hand comes out of nowhere............ :-)

... to deliver a 3d laser cut pie :D

Thanks everyone. :)

@ Dan, price for commercial parts to DIY a model like this would be around $80. I also build models on commission, but I don't have a set price, too many variables, its negotiated.

Dave

[Dan Hintz]

@ Dan, price for commercial parts to DIY a model like this would be around $80. I also build models on commission, but I don't have a set price, too many variables, its negotiated.
Are you kidding me? I would have expected a much higher price tag for such a detailed model... much higher.

[Larry Folk]

David,
Your train set models are outstanding. I am use to building 1/4 and 1/3 scale r/c models that with my SuperCub I can actually stick my head into the cockpit.

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David,
What kind of camera to you have to take your photos?

For this house model that I am working on I sent out for quotes for building this model at 1/4" = 1'-0" scale and I was quoted $5,000.00 by two different modeling companies, seems like a lot to me.

Sotos

My real short fall is how to price these. I know how much I have in them both time and material but what is a reasonable price that you can expect get for these?

[Rodne Gold]

That is amazing David.....

[Dan Hintz]

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I don't know, David, you look a little stiff... ;)