Hollowing w/ Monster using carbide vs. HSS cutter

[Michael Ginsberg]

I am about to try my new Monster articulated system for the first time on a fully enclosed form. Is it safe to assume that roughing out is better with the HSS and then finishing with the carbide cutter ? What do you folks do?
I have used both tips on semi-enclosed practice pieces so I can see what I am doing. I am about to try this blindly.
Thanks

[David E Keller]

I never use my carbide cutter... I use the scrapers for finishig cuts with a fresh burr. I like the larger radius ofthe scrapers, and I find it easier to smooth things with them. YMMV.

[Steve Schlumpf]

I have used the carbide a few times but like using the HSS much better. Put a fresh burr on the HSS and I can take some seriously light cuts! Play with it a little and see what works best for you and your style of turning!

[Michael Ginsberg]

Thanks Guys!
Cabide =0
HSS= 2

[Steve Schlumpf]

Michael - just try them both and see what works best for you. Remember - it's just wood - so don't be afraid to play around with cutter variations, profiles, and push/pull cuts because it is the only way you are going to find out what works best for you.

Have fun!

[Michael Ginsberg]

Well said Steve. I plan on it! I have dedicated Wednesday to figuring this out. One more thing... hard vs. soft woods... does my approach change with the two different metal cutters? Is one better regarding the wood hardness?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Every piece of wood I hollow is different from the last - so your technique will vary slightly with regards to speed and pressure but the bulk of it will remain the same.

[Reed Gray]

Well, I don't do a lot of hollowing, but I use my Kelton hollowers in my Monster for roughing, and the carbide disc at a 45 degree angle for finish cuts. I do seem to get a smoother cut with the shear angle.

robo hippy

[Michael Ginsberg]

Reed,
Do you use the Keltons in the Articulated Arm or the Captive system?

[Dan Forman]

So far, in my limited experience, I have found that really small radius tools are harder to achieve a smooth surface with than larger radius. I have the best luck with the HSS scraper. Too large a radius can end up grabbing too much wood, so it's a balancing act. Ultimately, it's probably a matter of how smooth you can move.

Dan

[Reed Gray]

Michael,
When I got my Keltons, I also got the collars/adapters for them for fitting into a captured system. When I got my Monster, I had Randy make me an adapter so I could use my Keltons in the Monster system. The 3/4 ones tend to chatter a bit, and I think that is because it is a very long lever arm. The 5/8 inch ones don't chatter nearly as much. I also use my Keltons in my coring handle free hand for roughing as it is a bit faster than the Monster because I can apply more pressure. I have my Kelton laser for coring welded onto my Kelton handle (I didn't like the way it mounted through the same set screws that hold the blade in place), so the rough work free hand, clean up and finish cuts in the Monster.

robo hippy

[Wally Dickerman]

You'll find that using the Hunter type carbide cutter in a HF where you can't watch the action, has a learning curve. Not too difficult to get a catch. Hunter makes a 3/16 inch cutter with a very small carbide cutter at a 45 deg. angle that works well. I haven't tried it on my Monster tool yet but I've used it when using my armbrace Stewart tool.

[Michael Ginsberg]

Thanks Wally, I will give all options a try. There are manys to achieve the same thing I am finding out!!

[Jamie Donaldson]

The 1/4" Hunter carbide cutter that comes with the Monster system is very aggressive, and I use a 3/8" Hunter disc that I had made for a captured system. Make sure that you keep any of the disc cutters angled at about 45 degrees, NEVER presented to the wood flat. I prefer an old Stewart hooker tool with sharp scraper blade for smoothing the interior walls- the wider cutter smooooooths the ridges very well with a freshly sharpened burr.

[Michael Ginsberg]

Thanks all! hope you had a good holiday.