Worksharp vs veritas power sharpener

[paul cottingham]

So i have clearance to buy a power sharpener, as my hands are too screwed up to hand hone my tools. What is everyones opinion of the worksharp? how about vs the Veritas power sharpening system?

Thanks as always.

[Jim Koepke]

I have the Veritas power sharpening system and like it very much.

My suggestion if you do buy the Veritas is to purchase a few extra tool holders. In my experience, you can run five blades. While the first one cools, the next four get done.

One feature that I do not like is the system is set up for putting a micro bevel on blades. I overcame this by buying an extra set of disks and shimming the disks so they are all the same angle when sharpening.

I have not used a Worksharp, so I can not make any valid comments. Hopefully someone else will be able to comment on their experience with their set up.

If you ever head down toward Portland, Oregon, send me a PM. You are welcome to stop by and see my set up.

jtk

[Don Inghram]

I recently purchased the Worksharp and have entered a whole new realm in sharpening. Wonderful set-up IMO. I'm sure the Veritas is an excellent system also, just have no experience with it. HTH

[Jim Falsetti]

I own a Worksharp but not the Veritas. The Worksharp is good for chisels, and fine for lapping the backs of larger plane blades. However, the large blade adapter does not work for me.

Jim

[Mike Henderson]

I bought the WorkSharp 3000 when Home Depot had that special for about $70. I find it good for establishing the bevel on chisels or plane blades, and for flattening the backs initially, but for fine sharpening I have to go to my water stones. The WorkSharp is worth the $70 I paid for it but I can't recommend it for the full retail price.

It goes through the rough grit disk (I think it's 120 grit) fairly fast but you can buy standard 6" PSA disk and use those. I put the disk on the glass and then cut the hole out.

It's faster than using a diamond plate when establishing a bevel but I don't know how much that's worth to you. You can also use a standard grinder (such as an 8" grinder) to establish the bevel on chisels.

Mike

[paul cottingham]

So can you get plane blades arm hair shaving sharp with the Veritas? How about chisels?

thanks!

[Jim Neeley]

Last year I picked up a WorkSharp 3000 after trying my hand at tuning some bevel-up Veritas 3/16" thick A2 steel plane blades. The instructions say to attach the wide blade guide, leveling it with the sharpening sandpaper. Unfortunately, it won't go down that far, because the inside of some of the supports squeeze against a raised piece of the machine. Sooo... I got out my Dremel and a carborundum cutting wheel and trimmed them back. I've attached a picture showing where I had to grind. It only took a couple of minutes and it was level.

Please note it was the *inside* of the support, not the "bottom".

I'd previously called WS and they told me it didn't have to be level, just co-planar, a cop-out to me. I wanted to use my Veritas honing guide with it and to use the angle setter, I needed level.

All this because some of the blades are 25*, some 38* and some 50*. It worked like a champ! I've attached a picture showing the reflection of some ribbed rubber matting in the blade. Scary sharp!

Way beyond enough to trim hair...

Yea.. I can use a microbevel and probably will in the future.. but the full polish was fun too...

Recently I've picked up some Shaptons.. for at least the finest work as a rattail reduction move.. :D





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[glenn bradley]

I have had the WS 3000 for a few years. I lack the sharpening gene (poor hand sharpening skills) which is kinda like having screwed up hands in that I'm not very good free-handed. I love the thing because it allows someone like me to get reliable, repeatable results. I made a waide blade support for it so I can use that when required. I find that I have almost completely abandoned my stones and scary sharp stuff.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I purchased a Worksharp 3000 when I had to do some serious sharpening (because my sandpaper was just taking too long). It worked, but, I had a difficult time not introducing a slight skew on my plane blades.

I picked up a used Tormek T-7 and I liked it well enough that I gave away my Worksharp.

The thing to take from this is not that the WS is bad, just that I had better luck with my Tormek with my plane irons. With my Tormek I have a few short chisels that would probably have worked better on the WS, but I never tried it and cannot easily check (my old WS is about six hours away).

[Prashun Patel]

I've had the Worksharp for a couple years. It's great, but not without caveats.
I use the above-blade table for wide blade sharpening. Actually; I made my own. It works just fine.

What you need is a good honing guide to work with it though.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Just to give you another perspective besides the two options you are considering.
I've never really tried the Veritas sharpener but I (like many others) bought the WorkSharp when it went on clearance at HD. Previously I have used scary sharp, the Tormek (thanks to Dennis), a regular dry bench grinder, and now have the harborFreight Tormek clone. My opinion is from an efficiency perspective. The biggest problem I see with a flat surface used for establishing an initial/primary bevel is the lack of a curve on the bevel, which you readily get from using a wheel type grinder. The curved primary bevel is extremely easy to use for freehand honing. On the other hand the flat primary bevel forever enslaves you to a honing jig, and no matter how careful you are you secondary bevel is never going to be dead-on on repeat honing sessions, which translates into more work. With freehand honing you just get the blade or chisel out and hit your water stones, no jigs or setting/alignment to worry about. The primary bevel is typically good for 10-15 honing sessions before the curve starts looking like a flat, at which point you go back to your grinder. The ideal setup for me is a Tormek for primary bevel combined with water stones for honing. For the price of a WorkSharp or a Veritas system you can easily buy a bench top grinder and then acquire one or two shaptons, adding more if needed.
The thing sandpaper based power sharpeners excel at is the flattening of the backs of plane blades. So if you are in the business of rehabbing old tools this can be very valuable, otherwise it's a once in the life of a blade activity.

[Mike Henderson]

To comment on what Zahid said, I don't have any trouble honing a secondary bevel on a chisel with a "flat" bevel. I establish the main bevel at something like 25*. Then when I hone the bevel, I place the bevel flat on the stone, lift the back a small amount and take a couple of strokes. So what starts with a 25* bevel is now a 30* or so bevel. Eventually, the secondary bevel gets too large to hone quickly and then I have to go back and re-establish the bevel. That's when the WorkSharp is valuable.

But Zahid is right - establishing the bevel with a round stone, such as an 8" grinder or a Tormak - is a good way to do sharpening and you can keep an accurate bevel angle. Just different ways of doing the same thing.

Mike

[Prashun Patel]

For me, the Holy Grail is indeed freehand sharpening. But like handcut dovetails, that skill may take me years to develop. I use the MKII honing guide with my Worksharp and the bevels (primary and secondary) are as 'perfect' as I need them to be. The Worksharp ain't no Tormek, but it certainly is good-enough-to-slice-the-hairs-off-yr-forearm.

Besides, in the worst case, you'll be able to sell the WS on this forum for a reasonable price here if you don't like it.

[Paul Ryan]

I have been using a worksharp 3000 for about a year and half now. Previously I tried water stones and scary sharp and dont have it in me either. The worksharp was a blessing. I have no trouble getting my irons, and chisels to shave arm hair. If one of my junk chisel blade gets dinged up real bad it does take a long time grind out the chips, that is where a grinder would come in handy. But the work sharp works great for me, on my 25 degre irons and chisels, and my 25, 38, 50 degree irons for my BU planes. I could not be more happy. Last night it took just to a minute or so to touch up the 50 micro bevel on my BU smoother iron. 400, 1000, 2000 grit wheels and back to work.

[Jim Neeley]

Paul,

If you pick up some 6" ROS peel and stick sandpaper in 60, 80 and 120, you don't really need the grinder. Just stick 'em on the glass wheel and a quick swish with an exacto and there's your center hole.

I've recently picked up some Shaptons and want to try to wean myself away from the WS for the finer work but even then would keep it as my "grinder". It's great!!

Yea, the grinder might make a more impressive shop picture but, in my limited space, the light weight of the WS works A-OK for me!!

[Harlan Barnhart]

I've never used one of those "spinning disc" sharpeners and I've always wondered, what happens to the "swarf" (dislodged grit and bits of steel)? Does it just sling out every where?

[Kevin Foley]

I have the Veritas system and like it very much. I don't, however, do final sharpening on it. If I've got a chisel or plane iron hot off the world's biggest electronic yard sale, I use the coarse (blue disk to get it straight and reestablish the bevel then to the 40 micron disk to first flatten the back, then the home the bevel -- a reasonable progession in powered sharpening. I then finish up on an 8000 water stone. I find the 9 micron disk fussy to set up, and I would do the final sharpening/camber on a stone regardless of the power set up. I have way more sharp tools than I did before Christmas.

[Tom Vanzant]

Harlan,
Yes. Most of it is within the WS itself under the disc, but a lot goes to the right.

[Jim Neeley]

Tom's right on... when you're using the built-in cgisel guides it goes under. When you're using coarse grits it piles up like fine steel wool. You have to be careful or, if it builds up too much and you let it start throwing sparks, the steel will catch fire...

On top it's just slung.. but since no moisture, only noticible as some black buildup on your hands..

[Curt Putnam]

IMO, you want a regular 6" or 8" grinder to do heavy duty grinding. The WS will take hours if you need to hog off steel. Once you get to where 220 grit is a good choice, you are only minutes away from an edge honed to about 1 -3 microns (about 8000 grit.) I find that I prefer to use the Veritas MKII honing guide off the platform in most cases, particularly for plane irons. Once your piece is chucked up in the guide, I don't see a real difference between speed or sharpness between stones and the WS. I think the Veritas (I don't have one) is a better built machine. Stock, I don't think it will go as high in grits as the WS. It would be a killer machine if they went to diamond paste on the platters.

Didn't answer the question. If you can use a honing guide, I would strongly suggest you consider diamond stones. Fast, easy and as clean as any system.

[paul cottingham]

Okay, just to add to the confusion, how about the Tormek t-3?

[John Coloccia]

IMO, you want a regular 6" or 8" grinder to do heavy duty grinding. The WS will take hours if you need to hog off steel. Once you get to where 220 grit is a good choice, you are only minutes away from an edge honed to about 1 -3 microns (about 8000 grit.) I find that I prefer to use the Veritas MKII honing guide off the platform in most cases, particularly for plane irons. Once your piece is chucked up in the guide, I don't see a real difference between speed or sharpness between stones and the WS. I think the Veritas (I don't have one) is a better built machine. Stock, I don't think it will go as high in grits as the WS. It would be a killer machine if they went to diamond paste on the platters.

Didn't answer the question. If you can use a honing guide, I would strongly suggest you consider diamond stones. Fast, easy and as clean as any system.

I did a video review of the WS. I took a new Henry Taylor pairing chisel straight out of the package (dull), reestablished a 20 degree bevel (it comes around 30 degrees or so), flattened them, demoed them and talked a lot, and it only took about a 30 to 40 minutes from beginning to end.

A grinder will certainly take the metal off faster, but doing it on the WS is not really that painful, although I will admit it certainly FEELS like it's taking forever as you're actually doing it :)

[Mike Henderson]

I used a diamond plate for years to establish a bevel. I wouldn't say that it's fast, easy, or clean. It does the job but it takes a lot of work and time. The WS is not as fast as a grinder but it's quite a bit quicker and much easier than establishing a bevel on a diamond plate.

But there's no way I would pay $250 for a WS - it's just not worth it in my opinion. It is worth the $70 I paid for mine.

Mike

[Scott Stafford]

... and a good video review it was!

Thanks again,

Scott in Montana

[Jim Neeley]

John,

What grit did you use to do this? I picked up a box of 6" 60-grit (and 60 and 120) PSA disks and, since they were only about $0.25 apiece, swapped the disk once or twice and, while I didn't time it, it seemed like it only took a few minutes to take a 5-pc set of L-N O-1 chisels from 25* down to 20*. I figured that the time saved not having to mess with setting angles exceeded the paper-swap time.

I picked up the coarse disks both because they were cheap and to see if they'd substitute for a grinder. Maybe I should time it next time; maybe that'll get me good and disgruntled with the WS3000 performance. :D

[Curt Putnam]

I did a video review of the WS. I took a new Henry Taylor pairing chisel straight out of the package (dull), reestablished a 20 degree bevel (it comes around 30 degrees or so), flattened them, demoed them and talked a lot, and it only took about a 30 to 40 minutes from beginning to end.

A grinder will certainly take the metal off faster, but doing it on the WS is not really that painful, although I will admit it certainly FEELS like it's taking forever as you're actually doing it :)

Granted. I was including the time it takes to cool things during the grinding. Haven't used water yet (fearing how that plays on paper) but have frequently used the beer fridge which is right next to the WS. Anyway, cooling can use up time.

[John Coloccia]

John,

What grit did you use to do this? I picked up a box of 6" 60-grit (and 60 and 120) PSA disks and, since they were only about $0.25 apiece, swapped the disk once or twice and, while I didn't time it, it seemed like it only took a few minutes to take a 5-pc set of L-N O-1 chisels from 25* down to 20*. I figured that the time saved not having to mess with setting angles exceeded the paper-swap time.

I picked up the coarse disks both because they were cheap and to see if they'd substitute for a grinder. Maybe I should time it next time; maybe that'll get me good and disgruntled with the WS3000 performance. :D

Just whatever it came with. I think the coarsest grit is around 120 or so. 60 grit would certainly make it go faster! :)

[Jim Matthews]

My preference...http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1&p=44884

It takes up little space in storage, and can be fitted with many grits - down to polishing level.

I use it to get the bevel set, and the backs close to flat. I suppose it would work for your purpose, too.

FYI - The Shaptons stones are lickety-split fast to use, even in my shaky hands.

[Jim Neeley]

:D Curt,, You left out that *very* important detail. With a beer fridge nearby, all timing benchmarks don't count... Who wants to go elsewhere when you're within arms length of the beer fridge? :D

[Scott Stafford]

Jim,

I use the 60 grit as well. Especially when starting to flatten the backs of old chisels that I have found used.

I still use my 8" slow speed grinder a good share, but the WS3000 has found its home in my small shop.


Scott in Montana

[Gary Curtis]

The Veritas power sharpener works easily and fast. To extend its usefulness, I got 2 leather disks and mounted them to extra platters. These are used for ultra fine honing compounds. I've had mine since 2006.

But, as with many machine tools, the challenge is holding the work. You are not going to sharpen an axe on the Veritas. And kitchen knives must be done freehand, which defeats the 'precision' aspect of this kind of equipment. Same for odd tools like a Froe. It can't be done. The instructions include ways to put a camber on a plane blade, though I have never tried it. Plane blades and chisels, though, are where the Veritas Mk II shines. (the honing guide is also called a Mk. II, if I'm not mistaken.)

As someone else here suggested, if you go this route, buy some extra tool holders and platters. Swarf? Forget about it. The actual grinding time is a few seconds. You can wipe off the abrasive disk with a rag. It does spray a bit of debris, so don't wear a white T-shirt. On this note, if you are tuning up tools, and not creating a complete bevel, the abrasives last a long time. That saves money. Grinding a completely new edge will consume more disks - especially the course grits.

[Ron Kellison]

I can't speak to the functionality of the Worksharp. However, I have both the Veritas MkII and LV Sander/Grinder. Both work very well and I have no complaints. I use the MkII for initial lapping of plane and chisel back, changing bevel grinds and reshaping bevels. I use the sander/grinder to sharpen knives (wonderful edge with a 1000-1200 grit belt!), axes, hatchets, mower blades, scissors, pruner/clipper blades, etc. It's a very versatile unit and a REALLY useful addition to any shop IMHO. I power mine with a used 1/4 HP blower motor I picked up for next to nothing at a local HVAC shop.

[paul cottingham]

Wow, so much great info. I also think the veritas sander/grinder would be super useful. So, SWMBO wants me to thoroughly research this....any opinions on the Tormek? I may consider it as well.

[Mike Henderson]

Wow, so much great info. I also think the veritas sander/grinder would be super useful. So, SWMBO wants me to thoroughly research this....any opinions on the Tormek? I may consider it as well.
I've used the Tormek and would not recommend it. First of all, it's a wet sharpener so you have to have a place to use it where the water won't cause any problems. And it does slop water in use. Second, you can't use it to flatten the backs of chisels or plane blades. Some people will tell you that you can do it on the side of the stone but people I know who've tried it have not had good results. They tend to get more taken off on one side than the other. Third, it's very expensive for a single person shop. There's a lot of accessories that can double the initial price, depending on what you need. Fourth, it's a single grit stone so you still need some way to get final honing, which generally means you still need water stones.

On the plus side, you do get a concave grind which some people prefer when hand honing.

So it's good for establishing the initial bevel, and the water keeps the grinding cool so you never overheat an edge but you still need water stones. WAY before I'd buy a Tormek I'd buy a good diamond plate and save my money.

Mike

[Basically, I think the Tormek is a modern interpretation of the old blacksmith's foot pumped (or hand turned) grinding wheel. The one where he poured water over the wheel before he used it.]

[Jim Koepke]

Wow, so much great info. I also think the veritas sander/grinder would be super useful.

I use mine on woodworking tools, gardening tools, mower blades and what ever needs a bit of sharpening.

The only thing it seems to have difficulty doing is my 30" scythe blade.

jtk

[Johnny Kleso]

Hey Thanks for the idea with the WorkSharp..

I have several sharpening jigs and have been slow on making a tool bar for my MKIII Sharpener
196293
http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/sharpening/MKIII/MKIII.html
My plan was to buy a spare LV tool holder and use a piece of brass angle for the bar..
All I need to do is make a spacer and use one of several jigs I already own..

Thanks..

[Steve Friedman]

I can't speak to the functionality of the Worksharp. However, I have both the Veritas MkII and LV Sander/Grinder. Both work very well and I have no complaints. I use the MkII for initial lapping of plane and chisel back, changing bevel grinds and reshaping bevels. I use the sander/grinder to sharpen knives (wonderful edge with a 1000-1200 grit belt!), axes, hatchets, mower blades, scissors, pruner/clipper blades, etc. It's a very versatile unit and a REALLY useful addition to any shop IMHO. I power mine with a used 1/4 HP blower motor I picked up for next to nothing at a local HVAC shop.

I use the exact same setup and love it. I started with the LV Sander/Grinder and love it for knives, curves gouges, adzes, axes, drawknives, and lots of blades that you would normally have to sharpen by hand. It needs a foot switch. I have even used it to remove rust and to sand curved pieces of wood. I usually leave it set up with a green honing compound-charged leather belt and find it is incredibly convenient and quick way to hone an edge without losing a beat. I used to flatten backs and do plane blades by hand, but finally bought the power Mk II for that. It's terrific, but I find that the blades get very hot very quickly at the lower grits. I use water in a spray bottle, which helps, but not for getting a cambered edge. The extra pressure seems to get the blade way too hot too quickly. I just saw a recommendation here (or on WN) about attaching a large magnet to the blade, which acts as a heat sink and intend to try that next.

Steve

[ken seale]

I'm the guy that uses a magnet. It makes the tool much easier and cleaner to work with. Having a handle on the thing enables me to tilt the iron and ease the edge on the corners. using it the steel never even gets warm.

Rob should include one with every sharpener ;)

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h119/nicobie/104-0486_IMG.jpg

[Jim Neeley]

Top quality work, Johnny... and thank you for the awesome web site pictures!

Jim


Hey Thanks for the idea with the WorkSharp..

I have several sharpening jigs and have been slow on making a tool bar for my MKIII Sharpener
196293
http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/sharpening/MKIII/MKIII.html
My plan was to buy a spare LV tool holder and use a piece of brass angle for the bar..
All I need to do is make a spacer and use one of several jigs I already own..

Thanks..

[Steve Friedman]

I'm the guy that uses a magnet. It makes the tool much easier and cleaner to work with. Having a handle on the thing enables me to tilt the iron and ease the edge on the corners. using it the steel never even gets warm.

Rob should include one with every sharpener ;)

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h119/nicobie/104-0486_IMG.jpg

Ken, I thought it was a terrific idea and made a lot of sense. Spraying the blades with water is fine, but you need to do it often and the corners are very difficult because the irons get so hot so quickly.

Thanks again,

Steve

[Jim Neeley]

Very innovative.. get the heat sink where you need it, Ken.. I'll have to try it with my MK-II & WS..


I'm the guy that uses a magnet. It makes the tool much easier and cleaner to work with. Having a handle on the thing enables me to tilt the iron and ease the edge on the corners. using it the steel never even gets warm.

Rob should include one with every sharpener ;)

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h119/nicobie/104-0486_IMG.jpg

[Edward Moomey]

I Have The WorkSharp
I had no problem ,leveling the wide blade attachment table,with the disc, maybe it was newer version. I no longer use the port on the workshop to sharpen anything, I have the wide blade attachment, so I use the guide that comes with it, just like other guides that you use on stones etc.
This way you use the whole surface of the abrasive disc
I think the wide blade attachment should come as standard equipment with the 3000, and eliminate the port altogether
In my opinion this is a much better way than dinking around with the port I have sharpened chisels, and plane blades, and put micro bevels on them, and it works fantastic
It is a great little machine, and I like it, but the port is a lot less than great. Here is another source for abrasive discs, http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/D491545E/mac/additmdtl.mac/showItemDetail?item=SD06199&qtyA=0&phsO=N&desc=6%22X1%2F2%22%20CENTER%20HOLE%20STEARATE%20PS A%2025PK&drpshp=N&alOrd=Y&iQty=.000&oQty=.000&initQty=1&assortParent=K&itemForSale=Y&styleName=&fixD=&face=.00&gftc=&stck=Y&prefS=&calledFrom=DS&ordInfo1=&ordInfo2=&ordInfo3=&ordMan1=N&ordMan2=N&ordMan3=N&persCode=&persReqd=&persLink= &shipRemaining=0&daysBetween=0&daysBetweenFix=0&monthsBetween=0

This disc kit is an accessory for the Worksharp sharpening and grinding system. The 25 disc pack includes 5 each: 80, 120, 220, 400, 1000 grits. The discs are sticky back, 6" diameter with a 1/2" center hole. $ 11.95
I have no affiliation with retailer

[Maurice Ungaro]

I have had both the WS & the MK II power sharpener. I got the WS first, but felt limited by the size of the platter. When I had the chance to get a gently used MK II from a fellow Creeker, I jumped on it, and have not been disappointed. The MKII has more real estate, VERY stable motor, and very solid construction. Don't get me wrong, the WS is fine, but I prefer the MKII. I also like it for putting an edge on my kitchen knives, as the larger platter makes that easier than the WS. Since i've been sharpening my blades by hand for over 35 years, holding a repeatable angle is not a problem for me, but I can understand how others may have difficulty with that.