Any opinions on the Freud LM74R010 Glue Line Rip blade?

[dennis thompson]

I have a very small Ryobi Jointer that works OK but is tough to use for long boards. I don't have room for a real jointer so I'm thinking about buying the "Freud LM7R010 10 inch 30 tooth TCG glue line Rip blade with Permashield coating." It's $56 at Amazon.
Does anyone have any experience with this blade? would you recommend it or any other blade? I have the Ridgid R4512 table saw with a Woodworker II combo blade (40 tooth?) in it now. I mostly will use it to make tabletops.
Thanks
Dennis

[Ed Labadie]

I've been using that blade for several years now. Very pleased with it, no complaints.

Ed

[Bill Huber]

I have that blade as my rip blade and love it, it cuts very nice and the parts are ready for glue up with nothing else done.

I also have a small jointer but as of late I find that I am using my router table more and more to do jointing with. I just find that it is easier to hold a 6" board flat on the table as to holding it on its edge on the jointer.

[Myk Rian]

I use my glue line all the time. Nice blade.

[Steve Schoene]

If you have already at least one STRAIGHT edge on a board, you can rip it with such a blade, and then glue it to another creating a joint that will hold together. BUT, it won't be a really fine joint, by which I mean completely invisible even at close range, except that some grain lines end and others begin. That is -- NO GLUE line. To achieve that you need a jointer or a hand plane and, whichever you use, some degree of finesse.

I very seldom joint long boards. It is almost always best to joint boards after they have been cut to rough size.

[Jerome Hanby]

That's a better price than I paid at Woodcraft. It's a great blade and I've done glue-ups directly off its cuts.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I paid near 100 bucks for that blade a while ago. I do like it, and I think you get a glue ready joint. Did something change so it's 40% off? The finish is a bit better than your WW II when ripping. I have those blades too.

[Lee Schierer]

In my earlier woodworking years before I inherited a jointer I used to make furniture with glue lines ripped on my TS then glued. None have ever failed. I'm a fan of Freud blades and I've seen their glue line rip demonstrated, but do not own one. It does make a very clean cut. at the demos I've seen. My other Freud blades give a smooth cut surface free of tooth marks so I wouldn't hesitate to use them for glue edge preparation if I didn't own a jointer. HOWEVER, you must have a well tuned saw and rip fence or the cut quality will be poor. Poor cut quality will lead to poor joint quality.

[Paul McGaha]

Love mine. Keep it on the table saw almost all the time. Only take it off for dado work or if ripping thicker stock. I think the maximum recommended thickness for a glue line rip blade is 5/4.

PHM

[Don Alexander]

i use mine all the time it cuts great and you can glue up without further messing around as advertised

[Peter Quinn]

The freud glue line cuts very well, I use the TK version with good results. Do note that it is intended for stock 1" and thinner, though I have certainly exceeded that myself. I like it because it leaves a reasonably good surface quality and makes less sawdust than my full kerf versions. I do agree with Steve's comments above however, I do not achieve consistently perfect glue lines with this blade. When two boards are placed together there is often a slight gap, a few thousands, but its there, and with a dark glue like titebond III on a light wood, you are going to see that. It may be more a function of the wood releasing tension as it is ripped than a deficiency in the blade, but I often go back to the jointer for a "kiss" to clean up edges. I have never had a glue line ripped edge fail as a glue joint, but often they won't win first prize at the annual glue off festival.:)

[scott spencer]

You don't need a special blade to get glue ready cuts. Your WWII and several other blades are capable of making that cut, so it would be a redundant purchase. The key to edge jointing with a TS is having a flat board.

[Chip Lindley]

I snagged the Freud LM74R010 glue-line rip on eBay for less than $50 shipped. It's a great rip blade TOO! As said above, for decent results, one board edge must be jointed straight before ripping with any blade.

It just finished ripping some 2-3/4" thick Ash on my 3Hp PM66--effortlessly!

[Bruce Wrenn]

I build cubbies for local "Y's". Basically a stack of 16" nominal sized boxes made from plywood and edge banded with 1/4" maple strips. This means I cut hundreds of linear feet at the time. How much I have to plane them depends upon how good the rip is. Several years ago, I did an unscientific test using my WWII, Freud Glue Line Rip, Freud LU84 (50 tooth combo), Delta / DeWalt 7657 (40 tooth GP blade.) The LU84 gave me the best results.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I have two of that blade. Works well.
I got two so I have one around in the event the other is out being sharpened.
I bought the full kerf on sale @ Hartville Hdwe. and picked up the second from Amazon.


I find it works well on my Ridgid TS3660.
I just got done ripping 30, 6' long by 5.5" wide by 5/8" thick cedar fence pieces down to 5" wide for some planter boxes I made.
I jointed one edge on the jointer then ripped them down to 5".
When I laid the boards all out side by side, I couldn't tell the cut edge from the jointed edge.

Right now, Amazon has the thin kerf Glue Line blade for about $48.00
Freud LM75R010 10-Inch by 30t TCG

(BTW - They also have the thin kerf 24 tooth
Freud LU87R010 10-Inch 24-Tooth FTG Thin Kerf Ripping Saw Blade
for about $38.00 - which is a good price on a very good blade.)

$56 or thereabouts is pretty much the going price on sale.
Like I mentioned above, I was happy enough w/the first one that I picked up a backup when anopther sale came around.

[michael case]

I've use this as my standard rip blade for years. I don't glue off the saw. I use it for the finish it leaves not for a glue line. However, lots of people use it for glue line successfully. But, no doubt you need a good saw with little to no run out to do this successfully. No matter how perfectly flat and true the blade if the saw arbor won't run true the blade won't cut true. But that's a great price on the blade. I should also point out that many sharpening services can't sharpen these properly. You need to one with the right technology and expertise. I believe Freud is compiling a list of acceptable sharpening services around the country.

[Charlie Jones]

I just bought their Premier Fusion thin kerf blade. WOW now thats smooth rips and crosscuts.

[Lee Schierer]

As said above, for decent results, one board edge must be jointed straight before ripping with any blade.


Not necessarily so, I've prepped rough cut lumber with my TS. I have a 6' long piece of 1" square aluminum tubing with a small angle clip at one end to push on the board, that I can place against my fence. You can place an uneven edged board, some times with a few shims taped in place, against that 6' length and run the board through a rip cut sliding the board and aluminum tube together along the fence. The result, as long as you don't let the board rock during the cut is a perfectly straight edge on the blade side. Then you simply flip the board over, adjust the fence closer to the blade and rip the second side parallel.

[Mark A Johnson]

I have a pair of the Freud LRU 87 and they produce a high quality cut just as the manufacture advertises. I even had a die hard Forrest blade lover comment on just how good the blade cuts. With th 24 tooth count it even cross cuts surprising well. At $38 from Amazon, its money well spent.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1306520610&sr=1-1-spell