Identifying Salt and Pepper grinders w/ Crushgrind mechanism

[Michael Ginsberg]

I was about to embark on turning Salt and Pepper grinders using the Crushgrind mechanisms which seem to be a very good quality and do not have to show the distracting
stainless knobs. One problem... how do you tell the grinders apart? I was thinking of having a contrasting wood dowel turned in to the tops. Perhaps two for pepper and one for salt.
What have you all done to ID these grinders with the Crushgrind mechanisms?
I guess I could put a big "S" or "P" with a sharpie but that seems a bit tacky on a gift!
Thank you for your suggestions.

[Dale Miner]

Use two different types of wood for the mills. Or, make the base of one mill of species A and to top of species B, and make the base of the other mill of species B and the top of species A.

[Jim Burr]

You could use light colored wood (maple, holly) for the salt and darker colored (insert dark wood name of choice) for the pepper.

[Michael Ginsberg]

Thanks Dale, I thought of that but I have two blanks that are matched Zircote or Zebrawood (not sure which). I didn't want to add different woods. I was going to attempt a modern design with one flowing line through the entire mill with the grain matching (like a turned box).

[Brian Tymchak]

Could you make them different heights? I've seen a few sets where the salt mill is shorter than pepper mill. Or maybe add an element like a bead such that the mills have a different number or position of beads, and keep the basic shape of the mill the same so that they appear to be a matched set.

[Michael Mills]

Maybe just add a thin (1/8") section of the bottom of each top section. One light, one dark? I know it is still different wood but just a little to tell the difference. If the grain flow (top to bottom) wound up not matching exactly it would be more difficult to see.

[Richard Jones]

I usually add a burn line or accent line down near the base, and when turning a matched set, the salt gets one line, the pepper gets two.........or..........the pepper gets one or two and the salt gets none, so nobody has to count.........:)

Rich

[Karl Card]

I usually add a burn line or accent line down near the base, and when turning a matched set, the salt gets one line, the pepper gets two.........or..........the pepper gets one or two and the salt gets none, so nobody has to count.........:)

Rich\

I like this thought... easy, and adds a touch of personalization... only thing is I dont know if a burn mark would show up good on zircote... zebra should be good though....

[Michael Ginsberg]

What do you guys think about my one and two ebony dot idea? I was gonna drill a hole and glue in some contarsting wood dowel and finish turning. I am not downplaying your ideas but what I have in my mind is a contempory design. Slight curve from top to bottom, and the top being cocave as well. That is why I wasn't thinking burns, coves or beads. I thought the details would take away from the form and the grain of the wood.
Please keep the ideas coming... I appreciate them.

[Dale Miner]

How about putting a celtic knot in each blank, using say ebony for one of the mills, and holly for the other.

[David E Keller]

... Zircote or Zebrawood (not sure which)...

If they smell like manure, it's zebrawood... Ziricote is typically quite dark and dense and smells nothing like a large animals backside.

[Lupe Duncan]

How about cutting a channel and glueing peppercorns in the area and back fill with 2 part epoxy on one and the other add Rocksalt with epoxy??

[philip labre]

How about cutting a channel and glueing peppercorns in the area and back fill with 2 part epoxy on one and the other add Rocksalt with epoxy??
I really like this idea and may try this in the future. I've cut the blank on a diagonal and glued in a piece of maple for salt and walnut for pepper.

[Ricc Havens]

you could also find a local laser engraver an have them engrave an S or a P on the tops or sides

Ricc

[Michael Ginsberg]

Thanks for the great ideas.
Michael