PDA

View Full Version : First saw build



Paul Saffold
05-24-2011, 6:44 PM
A while back I picked up a backsaw at a yard sale for $1 that I thought would be a good one to modify.

195666


My original intent was to cut off the plastic handle, make a new one and sharpen it for a tendon saw.

I've only sharpened a few saws, but this one seemed really soft compared to the Disstons that I'd worked on.
So I bought some 1095 spring steel,0.02, from Enco. $26 for 2 pieces 6" X 24". More than enough for someone who doesn't know what he's doing to play around with. So I cut it with a Dremel cutoff blade with the 1095 clamped between 2 pieces of cold rolled from the borg. That helped me cut a straight line and was a good heat sink. Using a Jackson handle that's comfortable for a pattern, I have the blank cut from beech 'cuz that's what I have. It was cheep and there is a good (darn good as it turns out) chance I might flub my first attempt.


195665
The slot and mortice for the back are done. The holes are drilled for the saw nuts.

Chicago bolts from Lee Valley.
195668


I marked the hole locations on the blade and with a little butane torch, annealed the 2 spots.

Now I want to make sure I get the holes in the saw blade exactly where they need to be so I put the blade into the handle and drill the first one. To keep anything from going out of alignment, I put in the first saw nut, then drill the second hole in the blade.
195675




I imagine most or all of you know what went wrong. The handle would not come off. Oh yea, I took the saw nuts out first, but it ain't budging one iota. Then a little light went off in my noggin. I cut the handle off and this is what I have.
195676



Those little "burrs" stick out just over 1/8". Remember I said I had already drilled the holes in the blank for the saw nuts. So the steel I was drilling was not supported directly under the bit.

Lesson learned. I'm glad I cut 2 blanks from the birch when I started. I have some curly cherry to use when I get to where I think I know what I'm doing.

As always, comments and your valuable suggestions appreciated.

To be continued.

Johnny Kleso
05-24-2011, 7:32 PM
Your drill speed was too fast and I would have use a full size drill to mark a center spot and then use a drill half that size as a pilot drill then go back with the full size drill..

Better yet is to use a HiRoc Carbide drill

195685

Paul Saffold
05-24-2011, 7:59 PM
Do you mean the RPMs were too fast or trying to push the drill bit through the steel too fast? I put quite a bit of pressure on it. It got hot enough that it smoked.

Those bits get a bit expensive to have an assortment on hand for whatever saw nuts I might be using.

Terry Beadle
05-25-2011, 12:26 PM
I believe Mr. Kelso was referring to too high a speed ( rpms ). You want a drill bit to drill accurately at the very minimum speed that it will penetrate the steel and keep heat down. Use Mr. Kelso's tip on using a drill bit 1/2 the size OD that you will end up with. Really precise drilling in metal shops start with a tiny hole placed exactly with in a thou of where it's supposed to be and then opened up with a series of bits.

The 1095 you are using should not need any annealing heat. Most saw blades fully tempered are at about 52 rc so a good bit at the proper speed will still go through it. Some folks mark the dill hole target and if the metal has been fully tempered, they will set the drill bit speed up very high and with lots of pressure not cut but burn their way through the metal. This is not something you want to do on a saw blade project.

Don't forget to post more pictures ! I'm looking forward to seeing your completed saw.

Good luck and enjoy the process.

Jessica Pierce-LaRose
05-25-2011, 1:09 PM
I wish I realized LV sold those bolts, I would have added them to my last order - seems like a good alternative to "proper" sawnuts. I wanted to make new, slightly thicker handles for my carcase saws.

Paul Saffold
05-25-2011, 8:05 PM
Terry, thanks for the tips. I'll try that next time. Paul

Johnny Kleso
05-26-2011, 12:08 AM
The HiRoc drills are super expensive but will cut a clean hole through almost any steel..
Buy the size drill you need these are not something you have a set of :)
Most machine shops might have two or three size and some have none...

You can find them at ebay some times for cheap.. I bought a dozen 3/16" for about $20 once :)

.218 drill at eBay $10 "NEW SOLID CARBIDE DRILL 7/32" COOLANT 135 POINT 1541"
eBay $10 "2 NEW SOLID CARBIDE DRILLS 3/16" & .201 #7 1580"
eBay $12.95 "2 NEW CARBIDE STRAIGHT FLUTE DIE DRILLS 1/4" 1334"

You will also go a lot better with a 135º split point Cobalt Drill than just a standard HSS
Use a carbide to punch your pilot hole and then finish with cobalt from both sides..

I'd try 250-350 rpms and a lot of pressure but if you have a drill stop with a thread and lock nuts..
Set the lock nut stop when point just hits saw, then turn nut a 1/8 of a turn with every peck of the drill..
This might help stop the drill from grabbing as it just breaks through with a standard drill..
Straight flute drills dont grab..

Paul Saffold
05-26-2011, 6:42 AM
I have a Delta bench-top drill press with 520 rpm the lowest speed and a VERY crappy depth stop. For slow speed drilling I use a brace...:-)
Also I have a 2 flute carbide end mill and a 2 flute upcut carbide router bit in the correct size but did not try either of them. I imagine both will grab but thought about sandwiching the steel between 2 pieces of ply and clamping securely but didn't go that route.
Paul

Paul Saffold
05-30-2011, 10:40 PM
Well, I made a second handle. One coat of BLO and wax. Shown with the Jackson that I more or less copied. The Jackson is XC. The new one is rip. Thanks for looking.
196490

196489