Can two coats of em6000 be enough?

[Nelson Howe]

I have reconsidered the shellac only finish for my chest of drawers, and am now using em6000 sprayed on. The case is cherry, the drawer fronts are birdseye maple. I sealed everything with dissolved-from-flake shellac and then sprayed two coats of gloss em6000. I plan to let it cure for 150-200 hours then rub out with 0000 wool and wax. On my test samples, I preferred two coats to three because you still see the texture of the wood and the third coat seemed a little plasticky.

Can I stop with two coats and have a proper finish? I realize it's a matter of preference, but I want to make sure I'm not violating some cardinal rule, and that the finish will hold up okay.

Will the rubbed out finish achieve a uniform sheen, or am I asking for trouble with shiny spots in any of the hollows of the slightly more textured surface?

I resisted using this finish because I worried that it would look too plastic or "production" for this piece, but I have to say it really is nice. Color of the wood comes through beautifully. And it goes on much faster and smoother than I could do with a brush or a pad.

Thanks for all your help and input,

Nelson

[Dave Gaul]

I am certainly not a finish expert, but I think you'll be just fine with that schedule.

Stunning piece btw..!

[Prashun Patel]

First, that'a beautiful dresser. Nicely done!

If you were going for high gloss, you'd be wiser to add a few more coats only so that you can have level it back to perfectly flat while rubbing out.

However, with wool/wax, yr just going for a satin sheen, and a perfectly flat (i.e., built up and leveled back) sfc is unnecessary. As long as the surface has an even sheen now, buffing with the wool will result in an even satin sheen.

I also submit that instead of wax, LOOK INTO using mineral spirits. I'm no pro, but I think the wax does little but make the surface harder to maintain. MS will lubricate the wool properly with no residue. Also, during rub out, I've sometimes decided that I need an additional coat or want to start over. This is harder to do if you've waxed the sfc.

[Nelson Howe]

Thanks, Prashun. That's a good tip about the mineral spirits. I was wondering what I'd do if I rubbed through and had to recoat. I can buff out after with rennaisance wax once I'm sure I like the sheen, right?

Nelson

[Prashun Patel]

I've not used Ren Wax b4, but if I recall, it contains polishing compound in it, which means it will alter the sheen.
Try not to rub through. It can be fixed, but it's a pain that often requires a few more coats (DAMHIKT).

I know EM6000 is a 'waterbased lacquer' but I'm not sure that it behaves like other lacquers or shellac that fuse into a single coat. For those types of finishes, witness lines are not so much an issue, but you also don't typically build them up thick. I'm out of my league on that, so don't go by me...

[John Coloccia]

I've not used Ren Wax b4, but if I recall, it contains polishing compound in it, which means it will alter the sheen.
Try not to rub through. It can be fixed, but it's a pain that often requires a few more coats (DAMHIKT).

I know EM6000 is a 'waterbased lacquer' but I'm not sure that it behaves like other lacquers or shellac that fuse into a single coat. For those types of finishes, witness lines are not so much an issue, but you also don't typically build them up thick. I'm out of my league on that, so don't go by me...

It's a waterborne acrylic, and it achieves 100% burn-in with previous coats. I call it "lacquer" too just because then everyone know what I'm talking about, but why they started doing that is beyond me.

[Mike Monroe]

Nelson, what set up did you use to shoot the em6000? I'm thinking about trying my hand at spraying finishes.

[Nelson Howe]

I got the Astura extreme gravity feed set up to run off my 17 gallon cheapish borg compressor. I got it through spraygunworld. Great gun, great finish. It's amazing how much faster and smoother it goes on.

Nelson

[Nelson Howe]

Thanks for the kind words Dave and Prashun. Guess I'll wait a week or two while I make the drawer pulls and then rub carefully.

Nelson

[Jim Becker]

While I generally spray three coats of EM6000, if you like the look of two, than you should be fine. You also have that barrier coat of shellac that's contributing to the finish. That said, if you do rub out, then consider that you likely have a thiner film and will need to be more careful...but wait awhile before you do that anyway, so the finish completely cures.

[Frederick Rowe]

First, beautiful chest of drawers. Nice proportions.

I'll echo what others have said, no need to go past two coats of EM6000 if you are happy with the results. If this were a desk or table top likely to see more wear, more coats would be better. In this case I think you're fine.

I would caution you to avoid steel wool. If you later elect to spray another coat of WB product, remaining micro strands of the steel wool may rust and discolor your finish. Plenty of non-steel alternatives. I'd also consider skipping the wax. I don't think it's necessary. Once you get the leveling and sheen you want, stop there.

[Nelson Howe]

Thanks for the kind words and the advice, Frederick. I have lots of the gray scotchbrite stuff. I believe that is equivalent to 000 wool. I had planned to use 0000 wool thinking it would be less aggressive, giving less risk of rub through, and an even finish. Am I off in my thinking?

Is there anything to be gained from waxing? I thought it was just a nice final step to get the best finish, but I don't want to do it if there is no benefit to be had.

If it makes a difference, this piece is for my mother to store unfinished pastel drawings. The top is hinged, and stands upright at 85 degrees. The molding on the back of the top is spring mounted so it works to hold a sheet of paper in place and allow it to be on display and in a position to be worked on, as if the case were an easel. I have shifted from my original intent of shellac only to em6000 because the pastel dust is dirty and will need to be cleaned from time to time. I felt the shellac might not hold up well enough to that. Would wax provide some additional protection that would be beneficial, do you think?

Thanks,

Nelson

[Chris Padilla]

Wax provides very minimal protection but it does provide some. Personally, once you applied the EM6k over the shellac, there iss no need for wax. I could see putting wax on the shellac, however.

[Prashun Patel]

"Is there anything to be gained from waxing? I thought it was just a nice final step to get the best finish, but I don't want to do it if there is no benefit to be had."

Wax softens the sheen. Yr surface may or may not benefit from it aesthetically. You should wait for a week or more until yr surface cures/settles down; the sheen of a topcoat can change on its own during this time.

Part of the reason wax softens the sheen depends on the type of applicator you use. If you use steel wool or a scotchbrite grey/white, you actually level out minor sfc imperfections. The wax lubricates the abrasive in this case. What I do now is use mineral spirits with the abrasive to level the surface. If it really needs it, then I consider wax.