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Giuliiano Adamo
05-23-2011, 5:13 PM
Ciao,:)
I am rehabbing (first time with a circular plane) an old Stanley #113.
I read some very good advices here:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148391-Forever-Fettling-Now-its-the-113

Now I have the sole disassembled and I wondered what was the best way for treating some rust and pitting present on it.
With an ordinary bench plane I use to lap the sole onto a flat surface on wich I glue abrasive paper, but what I have to do with this flexible sole?:confused:

Grazie,
Ciao
Giuliano

Jonathan McCullough
05-23-2011, 6:19 PM
Ciao Giuliano,

The sole on my Stanley #113 looks a lot like the spring steel in hand saws. The saws also get a little rust pitting on them, and I've found that mineral spirits (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_spirits) and sand paper is what works. I used that on the bottom of the sole and it worked, though I have not completely disassembled it. Hope this helps.

Jim Koepke
05-23-2011, 8:20 PM
Howdy Guiliano,

If you use the Creek's search box for > rust treatment < you will find a lot of things others have done to remove and stop rust.

The products in Italy may be different than what is available here.

One common place to find such chemistry is in automotive supply stores.

There is really not a lot of metal on the #113, or any compass plane for that matter to lap.

Good luck,

jtk

Giuliiano Adamo
05-24-2011, 5:39 PM
Thank you for your kind replies.
I add a couple of pics for explaining better the issue:

195663195664

In the first is showing the whole sole after passing it on 150 grit abrasive paper (not too much to avoid excessive sole thinning)and cleaning rust with white petroleum (should be the mineral spirits you talked about?) and fine abrasive paper.
In the second one the mouth area is showed.
You can note a residual pitted zone just before the mouth. Could this affect the cutting plane ability? Would you do something else?
I would have another question:
The iron coming with this plane was cambered like ones we can find on jack planes but I read the #113 is mostly intended for smoothing action. What is your opinion?

Thank you again. I hope to show you soon some good shavings.
Ciao
Giuliano:)

Jim Koepke
05-24-2011, 7:50 PM
The iron coming with this plane was cambered like ones we can find on jack planes but I read the #113 is mostly intended for smoothing action. What is your opinion?

I will go along with the mostly for smoothing. Mine is mostly used for removing saw marks after cutting shapes on a band saw.

I don't think the rust shown in the pictures will effect the use much. There are a few products available that should be able to stop the rust from doing more damage. Here they are called rust converters or rust inhibiters. I found a few by searching on > stop rust <.

Rustoleum is one of the name brands in the U.S.

jtk

Jonathan McCullough
05-24-2011, 11:31 PM
Giuliano,

Yes, white petroleum is what I think it's called in Europe. Looks like you've done a good job.

Hmm. This is what I'd do, but other people might have different or even better suggestions. I'd carefully scrub the pitted areas with a stiff metal bristle brush and some mineral spirits, to clean out as much red or brown oxidation as possible. Then I'd melt some paraffin wax on it to clog up the pitted areas; this would block oxygen from getting to the pitted areas. I'd also rub the paraffin on there a lot

As far as camber in the blade, in my admittedly limited experience (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?161364-Mahogany-rudder-project), I've used the 113 more as a sort of jack plane to horse wood off close to a line, then used a spoke shave, (and even a low angle block plane ) (and yes, some sand paper) for the rest. I don't see why you couldn't take a fine cut with it though, not unlike a jack plane. Let the setting fit the job!

Giuliiano Adamo
05-25-2011, 10:03 AM
...Mine is mostly used for removing saw marks after cutting shapes on a band saw....



This is just the job I'll have to do.


in my admittedly limited experience (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?161364-Mahogany-rudder-project), I've used the 113 more as a sort of jack plane

I saw your #113 working on that rudder.....very good!
Thank you both

Regards
Giuliano:)

Giuliiano Adamo
06-03-2011, 4:54 PM
Ciao,
Finally, here the plane at work for smoothing a piece of pine I sawed to band saw:
http://i55.tinypic.com/2qdcqhg.jpg

The #113 worked well and I can obtain a nice smooth surface.

Now I have another question: The rear part of sole is not firmly stopped in its position but I can move it lightly in the upper direction. I took a short video for better explain that:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emvLhuunJGk

Is this a #113 feature or mine has something wrong? I never read about on the net but in use I noticed this feature allows for better following the curve when this is not a perfect arc. What's your opinion?

Thank you

Giuliano:)

Johnny Kleso
06-03-2011, 5:10 PM
The front Gear Rack is not secure to the shaft..

I am not sure how it is fastened but I can see in video it is moving and it should not rotate on shaft..