Biesemeyer Refurb

[Andy Maldoror]

i'm building a router table extension so it's time to clean up the old Biesemeyer that came with my 50's Unisaw.
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1719/p1090912.jpg
couple questions:

i have the 48" fence, which extends over a foot beyond the back rail. my shop is very small. i push my saw back up against the wall most of the time and have to constantly take the fence off. i build instruments and smaller things most of the time, but occasionally rip sheets...though only the 4' and never the 8' sides. what's the ideal size fence for me? do i need it to extend beyond the table.

also i read that there is supposed to be a piece of formica glued into some part of the cam clamp. i don't have that...where and how?
did the glide pads...square feet on the bottom on the far end, and the pads on the T originally have any kind of laminate glued on? mine are just worn down paint.
http://img807.imageshack.us/img807/9076/p1090897.jpg
my cam clamp has a stress fracture, worn cam foot and bent lever. i was considering replacement, but parts might be too much for the handle assembly..may have to make do.
http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/511/p1090906.jpg
as for refacing....should i consider a taller left face? i haven't been woodworking long, and haven't done any vertical cuts yet, so i don't know if i might want some fence upgrades/expandability down the line.

also, are there any alternatives to the plastic t-molding that you guys have done or seen? if not where can i order it?

and i've noticed there are different cursors for the newer models...will they work on this model...or where can i find the older ones?

last question....should i hack a foot off this fence or skip the refurb, buy a shorter one and sell this one?

andy

[Bruce Wrenn]

I have built a bunch of Bies clones. The tee molding isn't necessary. I just do a round over on top of faces. The glide pads on your fence were originally high pressure laminate (Formica). You can order the HDPE ones from Bies., or just go back with laminate. On the picture of the cam clamp, you can see remains of laminate. Instead of a tall left face, I would use some clamps and add a tall face when needed. I like Rockler's fence clamps better than anything else I have seen. My fence only extends to just beyond rear rail. If you build router table in left wing, you feed stock the same direction as for sawing. This means you can profile an edge, and then rip it off without having to reset fence. This becomes important when you are doing a bunch of molding.

[Matt Day]

I'd be interested to hear some details on replacing the fence faces, as mine are worn down and I need to do this as well.

As far as the fence length, I like the additional support it provides at the end of the cut. It gives the piece being cut more fence to reference and less chance of it drifting off the fence and binding/burning on the blade. Think about where the blade is in your saw - it's towards the back of the table right? If the fence stopped at the back of the table, you'd only have a few inches of support at the end of the cut. And if you're cutting parts over a foot or two you'll want this support, IMHO. I'd take the extra 2 seconds to remove your fence when you store it against the wall and keep the stock fence length.

[Chip Lindley]

couple questions:

(1)...also i read that there is supposed to be a piece of formica glued into some part of the cam clamp. i don't have that...where and how?

Never saw that on any of mine andy. It's metal against metal where the cam presses on the foot.

(2)...did the glide pads...square feet on the bottom on the far end, and the pads on the T originally have any kind of laminate glued on? mine are just worn down paint.

Yes, the fence originally had "Formica" glued to those four bearing spots to make it glide easily on the top of the tube. Replace the worn ones with llittle squares of high pressure laminate super-glued where they need to be.

(3)...my cam clamp has a stress fracture, worn cam foot and bent lever. i was considering replacement, but parts might be too much for the handle assembly..may have to make do.

Grind off the remaining weld metal from the cam, drill the broken piece, and extract it with an "easy-out." Replace with a new length of rod threaded for the knob and welded in place.

(4)...also, are there any alternatives to the plastic t-molding that you guys have done or seen? if not where can i order it?

Order all the 1/2" T-Moulding you need HERE. (http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=11&cat=25&page=1)

(5)...and i've noticed there are different cursors for the newer models...will they work on this model...or where can i find the older ones?

New stile cursor should work just fine.


(6)...last question....should i hack a foot off this fence or skip the refurb, buy a shorter one and sell this one?

The shorter Biesemeyer Commercial fence is 42 inches. If 6 inches makes a huge difference, I would advertise for a swap, either in SMC Classifieds, or over at OWWM's BOYD. Don't hack the fence!.

andy

To Matt's concern with Biesemeyer fence faces, old ones are secured with countersunk metal screws beneath the laminate. Lam must be removed with lacquer thinner or MEK to install new. The faces can be shimmed to the fence tube before applying new laminate. Still no guarantee everything will be 100% flat and straight. Drilling countersunk holes through the laminate would solve lots of problems, but may look uncool. It would solve lots of problems though.

Newer Biese clones like the Powermatic AccuFence, have T-slots in the plywood faces to slip in carriage bolts. The tube bottom has slots for wrench access to tighten the nuts.

195546

[John Bomment]

Don't know if it's much help but here's some pics of my fence I took awhile back;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gratefulwood/sets/72157603697759897/