Grizzly Bandsaw problems

[James Kelly]

I recently bought a Grizzly G055P 14" band saw. I have made all the adjustments as per the instructions and have called twice for tech support, but I still get blade drift. Could it be the blade that came with the saw or maybe some adjustment I might have missed. This is my first band saw and have been disappointed in it so far. I read all the reviews on this model and it got outstanding comments for this price range of saw.

Jim

[Brad Patch]

Most likely the stock blade is junk. Any quality blade will make a world of difference.

[Derek Stockley]

Blade drift is pretty normal - that's why bandsaw fences can usually be adjusted parallel to the line of the cut. If the cut is drifting by a few degrees, just adjust your fence and life is good. Now if it's really excessive then maybe you have an alignment issue but a little bit is normal. When determining whether you've set up your adjustments properly, you might want to look at the squareness and smoothness of the cut you're getting more than the drift. I have no experience with grizzly but in general, stock blades are throw-aways and replacing them with a high quality aftermarket blade makes a huge difference to the saw's performance.

[Curt Harms]

+1 on a different blade. Some common choices include Timberwolf (www.suffolkmachinery.com (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com)), Wood Slicer (www.highlandwoodworking.com),(www.woodcraftbands. com (http://www.highlandwoodworking.com%29,www.woodcraftbands. com)), Louis Iturra (no website, phone # via google), spectrum supply (www.spectrumsupply.com (http://www.spectrumsupply.com)) www.supercutbandsaw.com (http://www.supercutbandsaw.com) and there are others. I've found a local sharpening shop that can get Lenox flexback carbon blades but he has to order them and they wind up costing about as much as mail order. I have a Rikon 14" saw and find that if the blade is in good condition and running centered on the wheels top and bottom, drift is negligible. Michael Fortune wrote an article in Find Woodworking a few years ago about tuning the drift out of bandsaws without cocking the fence. Others use a fence that can be adjusted to accomodate the drift of the blade. Use what works for you.

[Bill Huber]

James, welcome to the creek, this is a really great place to learn and get information.

Like the others have said, get a new bade to start with, the blade that came with my Jet 14" was really junk and I bought a new blade and it was like buying a new saw.

Here is a post I did on draft with crowned tires which I think you have.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?165973-Band-Saw-drift-on-crowned-tires...-The-way-I-control-it.&highlight=band+saw+draft

[glenn bradley]

+1 on getting a few decent blades. Even my old 1/3hp 12" Craftsman was quite usable with a good quality blade on it. I run Timberwolf blades and have been quite happy with them although there are several other 'use and toss' blade suppliers out there in that price range. Better blades are more expensive and . . . well . . . better ;-)

I have been fortunate in not having to deal with drift; I just align the saw to cut straight and use it that way. I also don't cut my own veneers and consider 3/32" really thin so maybe I am not working in the dimensions were it is a problem. Drift is obviously something that occurs as several fences are designed with compensating for drift in mind. My point is that once your saw is aligned, don't go looking for it if it isn't there but, don't kill yourself trying to avoid it either if you can just adapt to it.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Yeah - I don't think you have a Grizzly issue at all, I think you have a "I'm learning to use my bandsaw" issue. Welcome to the club, because darn near everyone here is a member or former member - I know I am for sure. And, I'm running the hoary old standard: 13-yr-old Delta cast-iron C-frame, with riser block installed. Yours is in the same general category - likely better AFAIK.


To resaw, you need the correct blade: IMO - 1/2" 3TPI skip-tooth. Timberwolf, Woodslicer, Olson Pro - all good blades. Lennox Tri-Master - over the top, including the $$. [I put mine on for the first time a couple weeks ago, resawed some 8" 6/4 maple, went into a Rocky-at-the-Philadelphia-Art-Museum victory dance around the shop - but you do not want to start there - that's not the issue facing you].

Correct alignment of guides and thrust bearings - both upper and lower - is also a key factor, as is feed rate and the ability to pull the dust, and you must have your bandsaw wheels aligned with the Earth's magnetic poles [just kidding on that last one :p].

One other recomendation: best $14 I ever spent on my bandsaw: http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-Guide-Band-Saw/dp/1565233182/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1306075961&sr=8-9.

[Howard Acheson]

Properly set up and aligned, you new bandsaw should cut without drift. As already said, the stock blade that comes with the saw is typically not of good quality. Buy a couple of new blades. A 1/4" for many cuts and a 1/2" for resawing would be a good starting point. Then go through the alignment procedure explained in the instruction manual.

Sharp and undamaged blades should not need compensation for drift. In general a blade that drifts is telling you that your saw need alignment or that the blade is damaged or dull.

I would also suggest strongly that you purchase the Band Saw Book by Lonnie Bird. Amazon will have it. It will tell you how to set up and align your saw. It will also tell you which blades are needed for the cuts you will be making--there is no all purpose band saw blade. It will also tell you how to get the most of of what is a very versatile tool.

[Jim Rimmer]

+ 1 on a new blade and ++1 on the Duginske book and read this thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?149862-Lets-talk-bandsaw-blades! And try some searches here - lots of threads about bandsaws.

And, welcome to the Creek. You've probably received $6 worth of advice already, so consider becoming a contributor.