Drill Chuck Arbor Question

[Mark Casper]

Hey Guys -

I have a Pelican Golden Goose drill chuck that I got in a box of stuff, and I would like to use it in the tailstock of my lathe (Delta with MT2). This is a JT6, and the other end of the arbor is a straight shank. How do I remove the arbor? I called Enco and they said that I would need these wedges (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=240-2667). Since the turned down portion of the arbor is above the shoulder of the chuck, I don't see how these would work. What am I missing here?

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Thanks,
Mark

[Mark Hazelden]

Hi Mark,

Wonder if this pdf will help?

http://www.jacobschuck.com/pdf/s1.pdf

I would be tempted to grip arbor in vise with aluminum jaws tight to the body of the chuck and either wedge it off the arbor or if you are lucky tap it off with a mallet.

Let us know what works

Mark

[Dick Strauss]

Mark C,
I believe you insert the wedge in the black area of the shaft right above the chuck body. As you tap the wedge in, it separates the adaptor shaft from the body.

The wedges are to get the JT6 to straight arbor out. Then you need to buy a JT6 (or 6JT) to MT2 arbor available from Grizzly (G1434) for $9.25 or from Enco (PN 890-9531 (Jacobs) for $17.66 or PN 290-3236 (Import) for $4.48).

[Mark Casper]

Dick - If you look just below the black area you can see a small sliver of silver which is still part of the arbor, so the wedges won't make contact with the body of the chuck. At least I think it is part of the arbor - that's what it looks like to me.

Mark - I had tried gripping the arbor in a vise (I'll be throwing the arbor away so it doesn't matter if I mar it up) and I couldn't get it to budge. That pdf is helpful, and I tried to drill a hole through the black recessed area for a pin, but it was very slow going so I'm not sure how hard the material is there.

I'm wondering if I should keep trying to drill the hole for a pin to wedge against, or maybe a couple of washers on top of the chuck body and around the arbor would raise the height enough so I could still use the wedges in the recessed area, if that makes sense?

Thanks,
Mark

[Mark Hazelden]

Mark,

I don't know what else to suggest. I believe you are on the right track. It seems that arbor is going to just be a pain.

I noticed your location as Upstate. I grew up in Waterville, and when to college in Rochester.

[James Combs]

Another option you might try is to see if there is such a thing as an adapter to MT2 from that size straight shaft. I know they are available for adapting other arbor sizes to MT2, for example I am using one to adapt an MT1 pen mandrel to MT2. I also know there are MT1 or MT2 to MT3 etc.

[Jeff Nicol]

Did you look into the end of the chuck with the jaws wide open to make sure it does not have a small bolt holding the chuck to the arbor? I am not sure about this setup you are showing but some of them have reverse threads on the bolt. Also the arbor mat be threaded and not pressed on, but if pressed on friction fit there should be a hole througn the chck to tap out the arbor. Here is a link to all types of arbors and how they look.

http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/Drill-Chuck-Arbors/570.html

Here is another link to YouTube about taking the arbor out if the arbor has a threaded socket in the end.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIX6KLYfHW4&feature=related



Also the knurled collar should come off to allow you to use the wedges, it looks like a set screw hole on it.

Good luck,

Jeff

[Tom Wilson66]

could you slip a metal washer over the taper to "shim" for the wedges?

[Dick Strauss]

You might want to try inserting the wedge upside down (wedge side toward the chuck body) if the wedge thickness is more than the height of the black area form the chuck.

[Mark Casper]

Thanks guys...I really appreciate the responses. The end of the arbor is not threaded, so I can not use that nifty trick they showed in the YouTube clip. There is no bolt holding it on inside the chuck. And removing the knurled collar did not make a difference for using the wedges. I don't have the wedges yet, and at this point, unless there are any other comments, I think I'll order the wedges and use a washer as a shim or insert them upside down if it looks like that will work. I'll let you all know how it goes!

Mark H., Rochester is where I am :).

[Mark Hazelden]

Good luck and let us know how it turns out. We may find ourselves in the same pickle someday.

I did 5 years at RIT. They let met out with a BS in EE. :)

Mark

[Mark Hazelden]

Mark,

Here is another idea.

Can you see the end of the arbor inside the chuck when the chuck is fully open?

If so, I would be tempted to do the following:

Open your vise just enough so the arbor can hang down through the jaws with the body of the chuck pointed up. Take an air hammer and drive the arbor out with a punch set on the end of the arbor inside the chuck body. Take it easy at first and see if it moves. Pull the trigger further for heavier hammering as you dare.

I have found that the repetitive hammering of an air hammer can break free parts that resist all other methods.

If that doesn't work, maybe using the wedges to put some tension on the arbor AND using the air hammer would work.

[Mark Casper]

There is definitely no access hole inside the chuck. I sure wish there was!

- Mark

[Jeff Nicol]

Mark, If all of what we said so far won't work just clamp the arbor in a vise or with a vise grip in the dark area that is milled under the polished portion. The take a hammer and give the end of the arbor a whack with hammer to dislodge the arbor, make sure there is someplace for the chuck to land if it falls off. If that does not work clamp it in the vise and then tighten a good sized allen wrench in the chuck and put a piece of pipe on the long end of the allen wrench and turn the chuck to break the seal of the friction fit. A little heat from a torch on the arbor will help also with these processes.

Good luck,

Jeff

[Mark Casper]

This is not going well. I decided to try this contraption:

195542

A metal collar over the top of the chuck body, some vise grips, and an automotive pickle fork. I applied heat to the arbor and after a lot of banging....nothing. I thought this was going to work. I'm wondering now if the wedges would even work. :confused:

- Mark

[Kerry Burton]

I think Jeff is on the right track; it may be easier to get the chuck to spin on the arbor than to pull/wedge it straight off. The trick is to find a way to clamp the arbor solidly while you crank on the large allen wrench + cheater pipe.

Do you have a way to grind "flats" on opposite sides of the arbor? That could provide definite registration for the jaws of a vise ... or for a large wrench if you choose to trap the allen wrench in the vise instead.

Also, have you been using penetrating oil where the arbor and the chuck join up?

[Mark Casper]

Kerry, you're right about clamping the arbor solidly. I tried holding it in my bench vise while turning an allen wrench in the chuck, but the arbor would just slip. Grinding the flats is a good idea, so I'll try that. And no, I didn't use penetrating oil yet so I'll add that to the mix and report back.

Thanks!
Mark