how to remove a cotter pin type thingy from a vise handle

[Zahid Naqvi]

After installing a leg vise, using a bench screw, I discovered that the handle mount is not quiet square with the shaft/threaded rod. Such that when I turn the handle around the bottom of the sleeve has a slight wave to it. The bottom of the T-joint is what the vise face references off, so if this surface moves the vise face moves with it. I can sand it square only if I can get it off the main rod/shaft. If you look at the picture below you will make out the small pin that goes through the green sleeve and through the shaft to keep everything together. The pin is a metal tube which has been slit through one side, I presume to create a spring action to make the pin/tube stick in it's place. So how the heck do I get this thing out. I have tried mild pressure using a flathead screw driver but it seems to be stuck pretty tightly. I didn't want to force it and cause any damage.
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[Erik France]

Use a punch to remove the roll pin. Most automotive or hardware stores will carry a small set. I've used my transfer punches to remove them before too.

[Bill Huber]

Its called a split pin and you have to drive them out with a punch.

So what are you going to do once you get the pin out?

If it bothers you that much I would send it back for a replacement.

[mike holden]

Zahid,
It is called a roll pin and you would use a drift punch to knock it out. General makes an inexpensive set, you could use metal rod in a pinch (but it may bend, if it does, stop, and use a fresh straight piece).
Biggest concern is how are you going to straighten this misalignment out? You will need to drill a new hole for the roll pin if it is misaligned. You will need to shim the shaft if the I.D. of the tee is over size, and drill a new hole. This is a lot of work for someone without a machine shop (making an assumption here, but if you had one you would not be asking the question)
Might be more trouble than it is worth to fix. Does it really get in the way of using the vise?

Mike

[Zahid Naqvi]

The overlaying sleeve is actually fine, i.e. all the parts are aligned on the threaded rod axis, so the hole does not have to be re-drilled for allignment. Just that the bottom edge of the T-joint is not straight, one side is sticking out a bit more than the rest of the sleeve. The picture I used was something I found online not the actual vise screw I have. Once I get the T-joint out I can sand the bottom and make it consistently vertical to the axis.

[Lee Schierer]

The overlaying sleeve is actually fine, i.e. all the parts are aligned on the threaded rod axis, so the hole does not have to be re-drilled for allignment. Just that the bottom edge of the T-joint is not straight, one side is sticking out a bit more than the rest of the sleeve. The picture I used was something I found online not the actual vise screw I have. Once I get the T-joint out I can sand the bottom and make it consistently vertical to the axis.

Some manufacturers drill the hole through the shaft at assembly. Make sure you mark the orientation of the handle to the shaft as it is mounted now to insure the holes line up when you put the pin back in. Note that one end of the pin will have more taper than the other. The highly tapered end should go in the hole first.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Lee, thanks for both bits of advice.

[Ronald Blue]

They make roll pin punches just for your task but you can also use what is called a drive pin punch which is flat on the bottom instead of having a centering ball at the end. I know Sears sells a set of them but I don't know if they are available individually. The important thing is that the punch needs to be the correct diameter. To small and it will slip inside the roll pin.

[Joe Kieve]

Not the most professional way to do it, but if you don't have the punches, a 16 penny nail ground square on the end may work. Just make sure it's about the same diameter as the hole.
Good luck.

Joe