Straight Edge

[Ray DuBose]

So Last night I went to use my router table and apparently forgot I had put my Veritas 36" steel straight edge behind the fence when I went to take it off. Had that sick feeling of hearing a heavy Steel Bar hit pavement. Both Sides are dinged to heck and I don't guess it's salvageable without throwing it out of spec to far.

So this was my first long straightedge. Is the Veritas still the best option around that price? Should I look at Aluminum or stick with Steel? What else is out there?

Thanks

Ray

[Chris Padilla]

I have a steel Starrett that is 36" long and it was pricey I think (~$150) when I bought it. I tend not to drag it much anymore because now I use my Veritas 50" aluminum straight edge A LOT. When Veritas came out with their price competitive aluminum straight-edges, I begged them to offer a longish one that I could use on my jointer. Soon, the 50" came out and I never looked back. It hangs on my wall and is used monthly.

[Matt Winterowd]

Woodpeckers/Pinnacle make nice aluminum straight edges that are pretty competitive price-wise and have some nice features like beveled edges and graduations.

[Terry Beadle]

A couple of ideas :

If you have a accurate micrometer and a good single cut file, you can probably re-true the edges. This is said not having a view of the dings on your dropped rule.

The other is that most fine wood working schools make their students make a long straight edge out of select hardwood. They need to be very carefully made but for almost all wood working situations will do the job excellently and cost is minimal. Again the micrometer checks and machinist squares to control the fine edge work is required. Just like making twist sticks, instead make one longer one ( 25 ~ 35 inches ).

[Cary Falk]

I have a Veritas 36" Alunimum straight edge. Woodpecker's also makes nice stuff.

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

I have several metal straight edges, but for most shop work I prefer wood. I take a 6 or 8 foot piece of 3/4" plywood 4 to 6 inches wide, and glue 1" to 1.5" hardwood strips to both edges. I trim these flush to the plywood face, then joint on my jointer. With 2 of them done at the same time, it's easy to check how straight they are. They also stand on edge easier than most metal straight edges do. They are also easy to reface. If both edges are parallel they great level extenders. I cut hand holds on some just to be able to hold the straight edge and level at the same time.

[Erik France]

I really like my 36" Pinnacle alum. straight edge/rule. I picked mine up from Woodcraft (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020044/29320/Pinnacle-36-Precision-Straight-Edge-Rule.aspx) during a good sale. Straight graduations on one side and a center scale on the other. I use the center scale quite a bit. The only drawback is that it will not sit vertical without being held. I'll usually use my long level in those situations.

[Rob Cunningham]

Ray,
It's possible to salvage your straightedge depending on how bad it is. A picture would be helpful. I would start with a bench stone. If the dings are large you may want to carefully use a file to bring them down close then go with the oil stone. Keep the stone flat on the surface and work in long strokes over the whole length.

[david brum]

Why not call Veritas and throw yourself on their mercy? They may be able to repair it, etc.